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Thanks jkxr4ti! couldn't find the blank around here but they did indeed have one at Cy Drake Lock. They are sending me a couple blanks, I will do my best not to lose these.

Thanks again

I am well past needing new tires on the car but unfortunately I misplaced my center cap key on those '89 basketweaves. Local locksmith can't seem to matching blank it so I am looking for either a key (if they are all keyed alike) or a blank, so they can cut one for me. Any help would be appreciated

Definitely the Turbo. Pulled it and there was over 1/4" of play . Everything upstream is dry including compressor side. New (used) turbo on it's way.

Just curious, did you set the crank to TDC prior to removing the old belt (so everything would be aligned as before)?

Thanks Heat. I should have thought of that I bought some stuff from Mike before.

hEaT wrote: Get a complete, good, used turbo and call it a day.

Love to but can't seem to find one. Ebay searches only pop up with, shall we say, offshore turbos.

I believe I found the problem. The nut on the compressor side came loose. i put it back but I believe the damage is done. Smoke pours out at idle, ruling out all but the turbo. I called evergreen turbo and he concurred that the rear seal was likely destroyed that is why the issue came on so suddenly...

Ran the car yesterday and had some smoke on startup. AS I drove I noticed that it was smoking pretty bad. Pulled the compressor outlet and there was small film of oil. Nothing on the VAM side. The exhaust side was soaked to the extent is was dripping out of the tailpipe (straight sidepipe). I pulled...

I need to change the valve seals and was wondering if there is anything else I should do for a bit more performance (maybe new springs)? I will not be removing the head.

For reference I have a 3" downpipe, LA3 and bit VAM.

Found it. It was a faulty ground at the VAM. I must say the big VAM and LA3 Make quite a difference especially in a 1500LB car

I am a bit confused. Car was running fine before the swap now it runs like there is a big timing issue (like only 3 cylinders are firing). I installed a large VAM, LA3 and moved the wires for the VAF and VAT. I didn't swap boost control or EGR (because I don't have them) I skipped the BOO & ACT ...

My TB has some mods to clean it up and do away with some things so it would be normal that the seals aren't available (can you read the sarcasm). I suppose I can take it apart and see about making some seals or finding an alternate I don't really relish finding and modding another TB. At least the l...

I have been checking and repairing a couple boost leaks. I finally have them all fixed but am still hearing air from around the throttle linkage on the TB, is that normal?

A bit of an update. I had a very difficult time getting the cam timing just right, always one tooth one way or another which is ~19 degrees of crank so I got an adjustable cam sprocket from Racer Walsh. Cam timing is now spot on, 10 degrees with SPOUT out, holds at 10 with acceleration. SPOUT back i...

Definitely 4V at WOT by hand not pedal so probably a bit lower. With a TPS off the car (or disconnected) what is the resistance range? It is a bit warmer here lately but the engine is definitely running 5 to 7 degrees hotter. certainly pointing to a timing issue. Still no more git up n go than before.