The Merkur Club of America Forums

I think i would have measured stuff and figured out what i had instead of pointing fingers. I know for a fact that the two housings interchange. Of course, pour a little more salt in the wound please. If you have a couple of beers after a frustrating day only to learn the hard way when a reputable ...

99.9% of the 2.3 Mustangs are N/A, so thinking you might find a turbo-mustang is about as likely as finding a SVO Mustang. Total production of mustangs '84 - '86 (All mustang versions) = 522,404 '84 - '86 SVO = 9844 units So slightly over one in evey 53 cars made or 1.884365357079961% of production...

Please do. I was in the process of changing the header, but would no longer be necessary once removed.

Ray wrote:Can we move Johns post to the FAQ please? That was one of the most informative replies i've yet seen.

Agreed.

Moderator: Aside from the feedback from John, please close/lock the thread and remove if possible. It will no longer be needed.

I tell you there is a lot of bad info out there and a lot of people have no idea what they really have so ill intent is hard to conclude when Joe blow say "I gotz dis ___________________" he may very well believe that's what it is, but he really doesn't know, and probably neither did the ...

Yes John, I do happen to be a bit upset and yes perhaps I jumped the gun on conclusions. Having spent funds I'd intended to be effective, the feeling of being had is not enjoyable. Things at work have not been well and I brought that home too... From whom I cannot remember said the housing is the on...

I did not think it would be that difficult to find a "Run of the mill" .63 turbine to get this turbo done. I'd prefer to use a used turbine and shaft if at all possible. I'm trying to keep this project cost to a bare minimum. If anybody also has .63 turbine spec numbers, feel free to post....

x2 on the Mobil 1 Darn good stuff. Currently pushing 225 horses on the stock clutch with the T-9 and 158k on the clock. Also make sure the goofy three sided plate is bolted to the gearbox. It may look useless, but it helps with cooling. With good oiling and that back on, it may prevent "stickin...

As he is NEW, and I've had the kid out in freezing rain, snow, etc., to get a clutch cable retaining clip out from the underside of a car, for a customer, WITHOUT COMPLAINT, I would appreciate a little bit more consideration in your replies. We don't need any additional discouragement, on the whole...

Well, anything is possible with enough money. If you can get the frame straight and the alignment correct on all four corners, it should act close to normal.

After the T-bone, the engine cradle could be out of whack. Frame work can be tricky and expensive to be fixed right though.

rommaster2 wrote:LA3 computer
Small VAM installed for now but the big vams in the trunk waiting for me to tune it.

Wait a min, LA3 and small VAM? How did you get that to work?

If you want a gullwing, get one of these instead. The work is already done and you don't have to cut up a GOOD car.

This is a short (yet incomplete and first draft) list of known OEM wheels that will work, but check further on each for proper offset, size and use: Audi 100 1989-1991 4x108 Centerbore: 57.1 Audi 100 Wagon 1989 4x108 Centerbore: 57.1 Audi 5000 S 1988 4x108 Centerbore: 57.1 Audi 5000 S Wagon 1988 4x1...

Yeah, I went with the 215/45/16 for all four and the sidewall lines up perfect with the 6.5 wheel. I tried a 205 on a 7in wide wheel and it just curved a bit too much for my tastes. I was also trying to use pony wheels at the time with it's 22.4 offset and it just wouldn't clear the outer fenderwell...

My Contour SVT wheels @ 16x6.5 / 49.5mm offset combined with 3mm spacers come to 46.5 and they clear my stock size Koni's. The wheel would also clear at 49.5 if it wasn't for an internal weight improperly placed at the lip rather then the inner wall. They neither touch the strut perch or the shock i...