The Merkur Club of America Forums

In my neck of the woods, I can get a custom driveshaft for about $300. And I have a Pinto shaft to start from, so if I could start from the XR4 diff flange and eliminate the adapter there, I could get away cheap.

If you've got the time, try it out. Might be easier to convert a 2 piece DS by deleting the guibo and adding a T5 yoke and u-joint. Shouldn't get any vibes compared to a 1pc. But converting as you have described still puts U joints at both ends. I'm not concerned about whether the shaft is one piec...

Yeah, I suppose it sounds pretty loony, but let me say why: I have heard some stories of slight vibrations with T5 conversions due to the need for pinion angle adjustment. CV joints don't care about angles. I have stacks of Audi CV shafts from which I could harvest telescoping or non-telescoping joi...

I ride motorcycles and scooters as secondary/pleasure vehicles. I currently have a Yamaha Riva 125. I take my wife out for cruises and we sometimes use it for errand running. 90MPG is pretty nice.

How much for the pictured "kit?"

My car is an '89, so I should have no problem with stock wheels.

And these are 12" rotors?

Another question for you guys, where do you look for good condition XR4s? I know that's probably a loaded question, but I do want to find a good one. Of course im prepared to put in some money and work to get it 100% but I don't want major trans or drivetrain issues. Should I stick to this forum or...

I'd say jump in--with the following caveat: The XR4Ti is a great chassis with a lot of potential, but the car is more potential than actual out of the box compared to a lot of cars similar to it such as an Rx-7, Celica Supra, 300Z, etc. It has a tough engine, but a lousy cylinder head that requires ...

jkxr4ti wrote: ↑Sat Jan 13, 2018 4:10 pm Take a look at stinger performance. They have some good kits that go up to 400 ish torque.

Stinger's pics are of SPEC clutches.

Spec didn't change the spring--the diaphragm..sop rellay no increased clamping force..400 ft/lbs Hmmmm I'd use Kennedy Engineering Stage 4 228mm pressure plate and a 4 or 6 puck sinter puck thing.. It'd call for a different bolt circle and some sort of stand-offs to get the height right..6 bolys on...

What recommendations would you all make for upgraded clutches? Has SPEC fixed its quality problems from a few years ago? Phoenix? Centerforce?

Let's say 400lb-ft limit on a street car.

I've seen a poorly done bolt setup, but a clevis with a nice rounded bolt would be pretty slick. I'm thinking rod ends on both ends. A rounded bolt is a highly imperfect solution. The bolt is not hard enough to resist wear, and the steel bolt and steel fork would grind into each other over time.

I'm still flipping and flopping on what to do about replacing the C3, and I have been thinking about the T5 I have sitting in the garage.

Has anybody built a rod end setup to replace the dogbone cable on the T5? I've got some ideas stewing.

In all candor, I can't think of any reason why this would be better than the readily-available option. Over-the-top leaves you with a full-width radiator, and allows for full sealing of the perimeter of the radiator opening with minimal fuss-- plus, it leaves you the choice of keeping your A/C cond...

Looks nice, and at a fair price. Am I mistaken for thinking that this looks like an intercooler core?