The Merkur Club of America Forums

I am in the process of adding some gauges in the lower portion of the dash that originally I believe would have held the amp below the radio pocket. I removed the amp or whatever was there before over a decade ago meaning those screws are likely long gone. I am hoping someone knows the screw size fo...

I know right, I'm sure nobody is getting rich selling Xr stuff but you'd think as inexpensive as setting that option up is it would be worth it for the business. Did we ever get a reply on the price of these?

Figured I'd update people as to my progress, as with most projects on this car I've made a step or two forward and two or three backwards. As of today I have fan switch wiring that is working as I decided it was easier to just wire up a new relay vs trying to diagnose why the factory relay isn't wor...

Just wanted to say your story sounds so similar to mine though mine ended with a lot more smoke. I had issues for months and months where mine would just stop boosting for a couple days and have a noise also but would then randomly just start working fine again. Then it started randomly fogging when...

They were the holes from where the welds for the bracket that bolts the oil dip stick tube to the intake were originally. Years and years ago when the bracket broke off I could swear the holes were smaller and I did not have this specific oil leak issue (though I did have other leaks). I suspect tha...

Sorry for the long wait on a response as to what I found. I was in Hawaii for a couple weeks then was waiting for a day that wasnt dumping rain to crawl under the car and fiddle with things. I had in the past used lock tight to keep the dipstick tube in as years ago the weld broke for the bracket ye...

As i'm sure some of us have already experienced my XR is giving me quite the oil leak under boost. I'm having difficulty sussing out exactly where its coming from as it appears it could be coming out of either the oil pressure adaptor\feed line (i'm running a stinger braided one) or it could be comi...

Thanks for the pic, that will help a lot if I have to run new wires .

Ok so I got the placement figured out I think and just ended up using a tee on the intake with adaptors, no leaks so far. That said I think the wiring still needs some sorting out or the switch I have is bad, time to bust out a voltmeter. Correct me if I’m wrong but of the two wires for the switch o...

Awesome, that I can easily work with, soon I'll have working fans. Now just gotta figure out the large oil leak under boost.

What I ended up with is using a fan switch from a GM 3.8 turbo (think GSX), which is a 211-219 degree fan switch. It's not terribly precise - but "about 215 degrees" is fine. It's either 3/8" NPT or 1/8" NPT and I used an adapter. The major flaw with this fan switch is that's fo...

I'm not running the stock radiator and my model of the aluminum shorty radiator doesn't have a bung for a fan switch which is where the switch was when i bought my car. I'm trying to get it wired up to where the fans turn on automatically cause right now they are just switched, I have a sensor but n...

Confirm the temp with an ir gun as the sender may be wrong and that's why it reads high, my xr hovers just like that at normal op temp on the gauge. Also take a closer look at those hoses looks like someone may have bypassed he heater valve without actually removing it but you'll have to take a clos...

The price to go bigger should not be significant as its just an increase in the cost of materials and maybe a little bit more labor though unless your car is lowered and you want it tucked pretty good labor should be the same i'd ask about doing 3 inch no sense in doing the same job twice.

I don't have the original pigtail however when i look at rockauto it looks like there is a motorcraft temp sender for the fan that comes with a replacement pigtail. The replacement pigtail though has cables that are white on both sides. Given the nature of how the fan switch in our cars work is it e...