The Merkur Club of America Forums

Wow!!

Found this thread by doing a search on "water injection". I was thinking that adding a meth/water injection sprayer between the turbo and TB would eliminate the need for an FMIC, on a stock motor. If that's true, I was thinking it should be pretty easy to drill/tap a fitting for the spray...

Approx $490 per 6 month premium for me here in the People's Republic (liability only)

Nice Ray!!

catapultkid wrote: Third: The wideband has an error or two it will throw under start-up/heat up then work fine. I'm not sure what is going on there, but it calibrated and reads like it should.

I read back, this is an XD-16? (w/ LC1?) What is the error number?

Cool

It would be interesting to see the old and new VE tables next to each other in 3d mode

Very nice :) I too "suffer" with a high hp daily driver. The remarks from uninitiated passengers usually put things in perspective for a brief moment. The stark contrast between the few and the many. Most people do up a barely streetable car once in their life then move on to the comforts ...

I personally think $1,200 is a little much, especially since a sitting car can hide many surprises. I think all Merkurs should be priced higher and underselling them only worsens this problem. On the hand, in this market you can get a lot more for your buck. Don't overlook bottom dollar prices becau...

Yeah, 400-500 wheel HP (turbo) is not much fun on the street. I personally wouldn't even think about trying it with a RWD. The symphony of noises.. whine from the upgraded gears, chatter from the puck clutch, intermittent artillery sounds from the wastegate dump tube, the constant deafening rumble a...

Quick update: Pistons looked alright with the scope, couldn't get it around enough to see the chambers. The consensus is the noise is a single rod bearing starting to fail. Oil pressure normal. Regardless the engine is coming out to get refreshed as I have many birds to kill here as a winter project...

Thanks Khan

No need to dig thru receipts. I'm in the planning stages for a winter project, weighing my options and only looking for approximate costs.

hEaT wrote:Regardless, you don't have to use 10* to set your timing offset. I use 20* since it's still on the pointer and it idles much smoother, especially if cold.

I'm stealing that idea

Excellent, this thread is useful for me too What I have done on both my engines, once I got heads that were rebuildable, Is the machine shop cut out the stock seats, and then inserted high temp nickel alloy seats. These are much thicker and stronger than the factory seats. So they undergo far less w...

Saving this link for myself -- from FocusSVT's thread RE removing the rusted out battery tray, etc:

viewtopic.php?f=37&t=17558&start=67

Will be visually inspecting the piston tops, combustion chamber and valve bottoms this week. Trying to borrow a borescope at the moment