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Fox bodies did get A4LD near the end of it's run. Thanks for specifying that its the C4 that's the same as t-5.

Minus the costs of everything I mentioned above skyrocketing, and that means we're down 99.99%

To Op I'd like to know where incomes are going up. Yes interest rates are low, and that is one reason why the cost of a modest house(if you can find one) are insane(at least here in the cow town that used to be Longmont CO). I see the biggest reason for car prices skyrocketing the way they have been...

The T-5 slip yoke and auto trans slip yoke are NOT the same. In all the North American A4LDs I have taken apart, the tailshaft was identical to the Merkur C3, and A4LD tailshafts except for the location of the speedo drive gear. The splined section of the auto trans is smaller that the T5. Elsewise ...

All you really need is the A4LD pump plate. Then use it as a guide to drill the holes that the C3 bell is missing. At least that's what Larry Davis once told me years ago, when I had been planning the same swap for my XR... I do have laying around from that project, a tailshaft, and intermediate sha...

Next big thing to figure out, how does my clutch cable go thru the firewall on the auto XR? Is there a pre-existing knockout that I can use, or am I drilling a hole lined up with the clutch pedal? I also have to find a clutch quadrant spring, as all the clutch pedals I have laying around don't have...

Next big thing to figure out, how does my clutch cable go thru the firewall on the auto XR? Is there a pre-existing knockout that I can use, or am I drilling a hole lined up with the clutch pedal? I also have to find a clutch quadrant spring, as all the clutch pedals I have laying around don't have...

Next big thing to figure out, how does my clutch cable go thru the firewall on the auto XR? Is there a pre-existing knockout that I can use, or am I drilling a hole lined up with the clutch pedal? I also have to find a clutch quadrant spring, as all the clutch pedals I have laying around don't have ...

Got new driveshaft back last week. All new U joints with grease fittings, and NOT staked in. New CSB too. A bit more than I paid the last time I had a drive shaft rebuilt, but well worth it, since I won't have to futz with driveline angel of a one piece set up. New one is on top in photo. Kept old C...

linky no worky anymore...

Got bolts from CNC motorsports, for $39.80 including shipping. They're on the way. Now to find some blots for clutch housing to flywheel, and get injectors cleaned. I just might be able to drive this car before turkey day...

Never mind found it, 16" +/- .25"

I found that again, and have looked thru it and the one on Merkur Encyclopedia. However I see no pics of what it look like when they're talking about reusing the stock 2 piece drive shaft. Take the front section of the stock 2 piece driveshaft and have a T5 yoke welded on and balanced at a drivesha...

The one pictured above is the after T5 swap. The front part of the shafts are different, the back end of the shafts are all the same, even between Scorp/XR IIRC.

Thanks dude, now I just gotta get some grade ? For the clutch housing to flywheel bolts.