The Merkur Club of America Forums

T-9 transmission manual and Sierra Cosworth manual

Lets see if this works.

I cut the front section, ~2-1/2 ", and got it angled to match the front of the hood. Found a roll of tin, around 4"-6" diameter, and slightly bent the rear section to my liking.

Welded in some side sections, bondo, sand, prime.

Here is some reference material, for dremel crafting. Lay string along each bend in the hood, and use more string to get these dimensions in place. Could have gone an inch or two wider on both sides, but preference. The 7" mark really should be 9" or a little over, to drop the opening just...

Finally coming back to this thread after...wow...been a while :roll: I guess I can highlight the build thus far, starting from the rear. -Currently in the process of repairing late model rear hatch. Due to the ~20 lbm spoiler, and no structural support in the middle, the center buckles under "l...

Revisiting this to see if post still active. If anyone has suggestions on how to repost these, for a more permanent link, let me know.

That's cool. Will look better than letting the rust creep up above the original fender. And you're not offending the purists here by cutting on a pristine example. Maybe weld a similar sized rear spoiler as well? Have a bi-wing, I might convert to mono, not a fan of rubber made one. Looking at a DI...

You will see a crease in the fender well / strut support spot weld. This is your new fender mount position, as seen by the dotted line. Cut under this line, then proceed to grind up to this line. Where the rear of the fender meets the tail marker light will most likely be rusted out, so you will nee...

Literally nothing on here, so I figure I would write a guide. Will be taking pics of the only good fender on my car. I am using a Mustang Turbine, with a 225-60-15 tire for mock. Subframe is billet aluminum mounted, so no worries on flex travel. I measured from the OEM pinstripe crease, to the untou...

So you're using rubber hose and not nylon hose, then? Using fuel injection rubber hoses. Russel makes an -an in metal that snaps onto the oem fuel rail. Autozome has the plastic one which can work in a pinch but I would not consider it a permanent solution. Hit up one of the venders or ebay for an ...

my8950 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 11, 2020 8:23 pm Are they 90 degree bends at the rail for the supply & return? Photo is hard to see.

These are 90 deg elbow fuel connectors, all around. Really need it to clear the rear proportioning valve lines.
Will repost better picture once I get everything hooked up.

Please keep in mind, fender liners are critical to keep a good chunk of dirt and debris out of this area.

Apparently, only allowed 3 pics a post

This took some work, just to mock up before I touched the aluminum. Take into account, my DIY engine mounts put the engine as far back, and low, in the engine bay as possible, so intake pipe location may vary.

Since I have spent the last 4 weekends trying to piece together something that will work, figure I should post it here. Even though 99% of these questions are now asked on Facebook..... Things you need:: Feed Line 2x 5/16" bundy fuel connectors, with 5/16" barb 1x 5/16" fuel injection...