The Merkur Club of America Forums

Reposting the pic since the whole photobucket thing has blurred the original image... Is there an example of the driveshaft with U-joints instead of the center support bearing and guibo that could be added to the mix? I think since there are numerous ways to convert to T5, or simply swap the swap o...

thesameguy wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 20, 2019 10:20 pm

Here is the thread... I need to reread it!

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=32229&sid=4c0db17a ... 0f71933c3f

Thanks for that! I printed it to PDF and save these kind of things for later use/reference.

Go for the later, max torque WC T5's out of a V8. I think the last V6 SN95s are every bit as strong as the V8 version... there's a whole thread about that from maybe 18 months ago I need to dig up! Agreed! I'm not saying they aren't, just that the input shaft on the 94+ is longer due to the whole c...

I don't know the exact years, but '94 sounds about right. I don't have a spare T5 laying around to give you a reference from the front of the casing to know if what you have is the long or short version. I've got one out, but you'd have to pull the sleeve/seal and measure what you have out of the c...

Do you need the adapter plate to put the V8 trans on, or to use the V8 clutch? I thought it was just to use the V8 clutch, and by adapter plate are you referring to the Canfield plate? Sorry, might have been a little mixed up there... :oops: Been a long time since I had a 2.3L. My adapter is for a ...

John Brennan wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 20, 2019 8:25 am

If it turns out they're smaller, people have fitted sleeves, which I believe is discussed in the referenced thread (or others).

Correct, you can shim them, I've seen quite a few posts about doing so...

Go for the later, max torque WC T5's out of a V8. You will need the longer input shaft, and about a 3/4-1" adapter plate for the bell housing, but it puts the shifter back near stock, and is plenty beefy for most 2.3T performance levels. I found the TC and SVO Mustangs too short in 1st for the much...

No, simply because engaging the clutch makes it go away. When I heard it, my gut was it's the transmission. The crap part is that - If that's the case - I'm going to be 100% compelled to built a last generation Mustang V6 box or something. The old, cheap 2.3 box got me going and put in a lot of wor...

You don't think it's a backing plate or something rubbing the rotor? Or something hitting the tire/wheel?

DPDISXR4Ti wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 15, 2019 11:36 am

If you don't have functional A/C, the Euro (heater only) blower box is the answer you seek.
http://forums.merkurclub.net/forum/view ... hilit=euro

Got one?

I just did the thermal fuse repair that's been detailed on the forum before http://forum.merkurclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13010 I was skeptical about it but damn if it didn't work and I got a bulk pack off amazon so if it fails again in the future I can just solder up another. I don't think sol...

I wish there was some lube to put on the tach so it would read correctly...Mine is progressively off as engine speed moves.
Multiple clusters, so I don't think it's the solder joints, unless they're bad on the 3 - 4 different clusters I installed.

Looks nice, but those front seats look might uncomfortable due to not much support.
Soft and cushy yes, but...

Find a 5.0? I've seen about 4 5.0's posted since the last post. Fairly cheap too...

merkurdriver wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 07, 2019 2:58 am

my8950 wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 05, 2019 1:49 pm

Drive shaft looks good...What do you mean by not STAKED? How much was total?

"Not staked" AKA normal u joints instead of the stock ones that are staked and not very R&R friendly.

Ah, gotcha, thanks!