The Merkur Club of America Forums

yeah i just cut the slot using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel with the clevis in a vise

https://goo.gl/photos/wMeyj8TB2g5RYdeH9
this will probably only work for the clutch cable itself like am using rather than the dogbone cable though. i just use a small hose clamp to make sure the cable stays in the slot too.

hardware store clevis and pin, with a slot cut for the cable. need to grind two flat spots on the ball on the end of the cable too. i dont have pictures handy but my bell housing is sitting on the bench out in the shop so i can snap a pic easy enough.

all tube headers will eventually crack, just the nature of the beast. that said it can be improved by changing the bracing, what it comes with is all wrong.

i dont remember exactly on the fittings. they werent blue tho, but black. probably earls.

a plain old compression fitting works very well too. had to use those on the lines coming from the body because the double bump they have makes those fancy fittings not work.

That is probably a decent enough welder if you do not plan on welding more than about 1/4" thickness. I would recommend going to gas as soon as you can, fluxcore is actually a bit harder to weld with and makes a huge mess. As for learning, wire feed is pretty darn easy, its point and shoot! Jus...

having been there done that, i agree with others, it is not a fun time. maybe if you could find the unobtanium manual steering rack with a more friendly ratio, but with the stocker it just is not fun.

the rear mount is still worked on a bit (when i have time to work with John, buying a house takes up sooo much time). one recommendation i would give is to make sure to do hard poly bushes (or even better, solid mount) on the two main beam mounting points. if the beam can move around at all, it will...

just grab a front wheel and try to move it to the front and back. if it moves any significant amount easily, the bushing is bad. but easier method; if they have never been replaced, they are bad.

do not bother with a gasket on the exhaust manifold. the factory didnt use one and for good reason. a small leak due to lack of gasket is better than a large leak when the gasket inevitably blows apart. if you really think it needs to be sealed, a small amount of high temp rtv is enough.

yeah that looks more like carbon buildup to me. in either case its not going to cause any problems.
the carbon buildup is evidence of leaking valve stem seals or bad pcv valve or similar though.

FordManMT wrote: As far a ETC it's anyone's game really.

so you have already spent all the money you can on things that you don't have to guess at?
i have a certain amount of expendable income too, but i do like to know that my investment is going to have a return.

there are various options that work "ok", including intercooler with bov. but to get to something that works well, the only real option is a standalone ecu that uses a map sensor (speed density).

that would give you the best driving experience for now.