The Merkur Club of America Forums

some guys weld the threaded sleeve to the strut body if that's correct? The threaded sleeves you'll get from us or GC will be aluminum, and you can't weld them to the steel strut bodies. Also, unless you have a strut body that you can separate from the insert, you won't be able to weld on the strut...

Running 90a through 14ga wire is a dumb design. Keep studying. After coming to a full understanding of fusible links during the design of my custom harness for the C Prepared car, I maintained the use of fusible links. Fusible links can melt and open the circuit like a fuse, but that's about all th...

Cellulose shim material?? Still the preferred method? Well, the preferred method is to machine an uber-thin-wall aluminum tube that perfectly mates the ID of the coilover sleeve to the OD of the strut body. However, since nobody - even me with a nice lathe - is ever going to do that, yeah, cellulos...

I'm not sure why you would want to invest the time into converting a pair of OEM-replacement struts to adjustable-height coilovers. Honestly, I would just use drop springs if you want to sit lower on OEM-replacement struts. Now, the Spax struts do make things interesting. At least you've got a bit o...

I would avoid a 5-lug swap unless you want to have a set of wheels that will fit another car you own. If you use a good set of wheels and a good set of studs, you won't have to worry about any sort of strength advantage that 5 studs provide over 4 studs. I certainly wouldn't switch to the Scorpio/Me...

Yeah, that's normal for that splice to be there. The 12V heads out to another engine management device from there.

First things first - you need to replace any items in your fuel system that the E-85 will destroy. Other than that, technically, you'll only need aftermarket control of your fuel. Unless you don't want to make much horsepower, yes, you'll need larger injectors since you need to spray a heavier volum...

Again, I don't work in these numbers, but if you want to squeeze me for a recommendation, I would recommend a 6 for rebound and a 3 for compression in the back. As for getting the dyno curves, I drive across the Ohio river and sit down with the Koni engineer. I have it easy. I let them borrow my Foc...

Those "3", "5", "7" numbers are sort of like treadwear numbers for a tire. In other words, they're garbage in my opinion. Yeah, one manufacturer's "3" shock will give different damping than a "4" shock, but one manufacturer's "3" may offer ...

So does anyone make dual adjustable struts? I've built a few sets of Koni double-adjustable dampers now. The first set has won me a pair of trophies at the SCCA Solo Nationals, which are not easy to earn. I'm a fan. I've got custom-valved non-adjustable monotube Bilsteins on my C Prepared car right...

I can customize these kits as necessary:

http://www.mc2racing.com/products/xr4ti ... index.html

As for the rear driveshaft screws, I don't think you're going to want a large-head screw of any sort.

I can tell you from direct experience that 15x9s with 275/35R15 Hoosier A6s work quite well with our cars...and last a very long time. XRs are easy on tires. I see no reason why 15x10s wouldn't work well also, but I'm not sure you'll gain anything over a 15x9 setup either. Either way will work, but ...

The mild stretch on the tires will stiffen the sidewalls of the tires which will give better turn in response and s little more predictable handling. Maybe, but you're really taking that concept to an extreme. Your car will cut faster times if you use a 275/35 on those 10" rims. If you want to...

Having used a very good big valve iron head and a very good aluminum Essy D-port, I feel like the big gain with the aluminum head is the weight difference. I'd say it's unlikely that simply swapping out the head will result in a notable difference in acceleration. Turning up the boost, adding an int...

I don't know the answer...but modular V8 into a LeMons car...and still being able to feign the value at $500?