Scorpio AC Blower
Scorpio AC Blower
Does anybody have a source for Scorpio heater/AC blowers? I would prefer a new one, since the R&R is so much trouble - I hate to put that much effort into installing a used part. So far I've been quoted prices over $200. Can anybody beat that?
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Blower motors are now a very hard to find item in new....I believe there is one currently on eBay that ends in next 2 days I think. $175.00 to start and that is a bargain in comparison.........I wouldnt expect blower motor prices to shrink in the foreseeable future....less of a new item usually equals more demand...and you know the rest.
I highly recommend that you use the "cut the box" method to R&R the blower motor when you find one. A lot less work, you don't open the a/c system and if you do it carefully its hard to tell! I believe the procedure is on the merkur encyclopedia website.
Jim Gosses
86 XR4TI, 165K, T-5, IC, RR, PBR Fronts, T-bird Rear Discs

86 XR4TI, 165K, T-5, IC, RR, PBR Fronts, T-bird Rear Discs

Thanks for the advise Jim. Normally I would do the shortcut method, but my heater core has been flowing poorly for years (doesn't respond to flushing anymore), so I need to replace it while I'm in there.
Am I correct in assuming that I need to do the complete shop manual R&R if I'm replacing both fan and core?
Also my A/C is presently dead anyway, so opening the lines is no big issue...
Am I correct in assuming that I need to do the complete shop manual R&R if I'm replacing both fan and core?
Also my A/C is presently dead anyway, so opening the lines is no big issue...
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- Level 5
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The heater core is an entirely separate R&R procedure, mostly done from inside the car. It's a bear, so pack a lunch. I'm assuming you've tried thinigs like CLR, etc.? The core can sometimes be cleared with some rigorous cleaning. The problem is there are twisted pieces of plastic in the rods and these really hold cooling system residue. And if you didn't already know, don't put full house water pressure on the system- at ~60 lbs, it can blow the core.
If you're up for a little fabrication, there's an all-metal core that will replace the plastic OEM unit at about half the price. Details here:
http://www.aphenos.net/scorpio/heating_ ... a_core.htm
If your a/c lines are open, pull the evaporator core box top off the right way. The plastic isn't all that stout and cutting it weakens it too much IMO.
If you're up for a little fabrication, there's an all-metal core that will replace the plastic OEM unit at about half the price. Details here:
http://www.aphenos.net/scorpio/heating_ ... a_core.htm
If your a/c lines are open, pull the evaporator core box top off the right way. The plastic isn't all that stout and cutting it weakens it too much IMO.
Thanks Ken. I just pulled the manual out and read through both procedures. I don't know where I got the idea the blower and heater core were in the same box. It's been a while since I had the lower dash pieces off and the radio stuff out (probably 12-13 years). This will be the first time I've been all the way into the heater box.
It will be the second time the blower box has been opened. The dealer replaced the original squeaking fan under warranty at 50K miles. I guess I've been really lucky to get 200K out of the replacement.
Looks like it's going to take a really long weekend (and several beers) to do both jobs.
I've been flushing the heater core (lately with CLR) every 2 or 3 years since the car was 5 yrs old, usually just getting a few bits of insoluable stuff out (maybe plastic). The first few times I got most of my heat back, but the last few, about half. Last winter, even after a "flush" (I could only get a trickle through it), my heat was down to about 10%. I'm afraid to put more pressure on it in an attempt to clear it, so I've decided to replace it. I got the OE Ford core from BAT.
It will be the second time the blower box has been opened. The dealer replaced the original squeaking fan under warranty at 50K miles. I guess I've been really lucky to get 200K out of the replacement.
Looks like it's going to take a really long weekend (and several beers) to do both jobs.
I've been flushing the heater core (lately with CLR) every 2 or 3 years since the car was 5 yrs old, usually just getting a few bits of insoluable stuff out (maybe plastic). The first few times I got most of my heat back, but the last few, about half. Last winter, even after a "flush" (I could only get a trickle through it), my heat was down to about 10%. I'm afraid to put more pressure on it in an attempt to clear it, so I've decided to replace it. I got the OE Ford core from BAT.
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You might try this:
http://catalog.autopartsgiant.com/ShopB ... 76&mode=PA
I have used them once, they seem okay. I ordered a temp sending unit for my Scorpio and it was the correct motorcraft #.
Good luck,
http://catalog.autopartsgiant.com/ShopB ... 76&mode=PA
I have used them once, they seem okay. I ordered a temp sending unit for my Scorpio and it was the correct motorcraft #.
Good luck,
Darren Needham
Andover, Ks.
Andover, Ks.
89 Scorpio heater/ac fan
The fan stopped working but heat and a/c were working properly. The fan comes on automatically when engine is started, usually, but today the fan stopped altogether. I checked fuses. Is there anything else I can check? The temp. control + - display stopped working years ago but still functions so I don't think it has anything to do with the problem. Would appreciate any comments and help. Thanks, Bob.
Check the connection between the fan speed controller and the blower motor (the fan speed controller on the plate on top the blower housing). I've had that connection go bad on me.
Jake
Jake
Jake Schnarre
In the St. Louis area? Join the St. Louis Area Merkur Owners Network (SLAMON) - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slamon/
In the St. Louis area? Join the St. Louis Area Merkur Owners Network (SLAMON) - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slamon/