Engine mounts.

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Cleat
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Engine mounts.

Post by Cleat »

Is there a suitable engine mount available for the Scorpio.

Mine are both falling apart.

I know the XR4Ti can use T bird mounts, I was wondering if there was a more common mount that will fit the Scorpio.

Thank you.
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brokencase
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by brokencase »

Thunderbird mounts can be adapted to work with the Scorpio.
I haven't done this but this guy has...
http://www.aphenos.net/scorpio/motor/mnts/mounts.htm

If you follow through with this please post your results to share with the rest of us.
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Cleat
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by Cleat »

Thunderbird mounts fit perfectly.

I tapped the center hole then installed the mounts upside down.

All engine brackets were used as is and the engine bolted in with no issue.

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Mike McCreight
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by Mike McCreight »

CLEAT!
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Cleat
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by Cleat »

I did the opposite of most people and put a Scorpio 2.9 and A4LD in my XR.

Drives well for a daily driver car with no need for premium fuel.
Not a race car but it gets up to speed fairly quickly.

I will have to wait until spring to see how the rebuilt engine and transmission perform.
Old combo was getting a bit tired and leaked everywhere.

Mike, I will have to get up to see you some time or if you are ever around Brockville stop by.

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Cleat
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John Brennan
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by John Brennan »

Basically, a Stateside XR4i. Probably a good daily.
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brokencase
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by brokencase »

I love seeing a freshly painted and rebuilt motor on an engine stand.
Newbie, Whose gray paint did you use to paint the block?
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by Mike McCreight »

Newbie? Cleat? Don't let the post count fool you...
Will do, Cleat. I haven't moved, so you know where I am!!
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brokencase
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by brokencase »

Oops, meant Cleat. Sorry

Cleat, tells us more about the rebuild. How many miles on the motor before rebuild,
parts replaced etc...
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by Cleat »

Engine according to the odometer on the car that I just bought for the drivetrain says around 118,000km.

I mainly tore the engine apart to clean it up and change gaskets.

Bores looked like new with all the crosshatching still in place. Rings and bearings all in good shape and were just re-used.

I replaced the timing chain because I got a good deal on a new one on ebay.

Because I needed to remove the valves to replace the seals that came in the kit, I cleaned them up well then lapped them for a perfect seal.

Cam looked like new and was re-used along with it's bearings.

All lifters were cleaned up, checked and re-used.

Everything was kept in order and replaced where they came from in the engine.

Everything was cleaned and checked for flatness. I did not get the heads checked for cracks because there was no indication of any issues when it came apart.
oil was free from moisture, coolant was nice and clear green.

New head bolts were used, all others cleaned up like new.

All threaded holes were tapped out.

Valve lash was set to spec.

Injectors were cleaned and I flow checked them with a rig that I built a few years ago. They all flowed the same.

New 'O' rings on both ends of all injectors and also the fuel pressure regulator.

Fel-Pro gasket set used.

Rebuilt water pump installed mainly just because they are fairly inexpensive.

Exhaust manifolds were sanded flat on a large belt sander that I have and painted with high heat black paint.

Heads and some of the front brackets were also painted with high heat black.

Grey paint is just Rustoleum dark machine grey.

Lower intake manifold is from a Ford Ranger and lacks the bypass hose fitting. It was cleaned up and cleared.

Timing cover is also from a Ranger and also lacks the bypass hose fittings.
This simplifies things in the cooling system and I figure if Ford thought it was OK for the Ranger, it was good enough for me.
The heater core is the bypass just like the Ranger.

Brackets for the motor mounts were cleaned up and cleared.

Starter was cleaned up externally and painted with high heat black.
I did not take it apart as it works well.

Starter heat shield was cleaned up and painted with cold galvanizing paint.

Throttle body was cleaned up and cleared. linkages were cleaned up and painted either black or silver as per pictures.

Upper intake was simply washed. Factory silver paint still looks good.

IAC was cleaned up and painted silver.

Distributor was just wiped down and looked good.

After engine was in car, oil pump was primed then I did a compression test. 175 PSI on all 6.

New Motorcraft plugs were installed along with Magnecor wires and a new cap and rotor.

Engine was started, timing set to 10 degrees, base idle set to 700.

I am sure there are items that I have forgotten about, that is what I remember from the top of my head.
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brokencase
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by brokencase »

Bargain rebuild. It's good to here the condition @ 73K miles.

Mainly because that's about what I have on mine.

My only leak issue was that the distributor O-ring fossilized.

After replacement I bumped the timing to around 13 degrees.
Seemed to add a little more pep and it's not pinging.

Were any of your injectors truly dirty/clogged?
Cleaning the injectors is something I have contemplated, but the car seems
to run fine.
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Cleat
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by Cleat »

The original distributor O-ring was also very hard. A new one comes in the kit.

I bought the upgraded valve cover gaskets from Fel-Pro and used them instead of the ones in the kit.

The previous engine was ran at 13 degrees as well with no pinging.
I may bump this one up after I get driving it to see how it responds.
Car is currently impatiently waiting for spring.

Injectors were fine, I just checked them because they were pulled for external cleaning and new o-rings anyways.
Also, it gave me an excuse to play with my flow check machine.

My previous engine seemed to want to run hot, I had to put in a 180 thermostat to keep it from getting too hot.

This one has a 192 in it. I will see how that goes.

In the Scorpio, it has an engine driven fan that runs all the time but in the XR there in an electric fan that kicks on at 210 degrees.
That may be the difference. I don't think I have room for the mechanical fan.
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by brokencase »

I'd stick with the clutch fan. I've gone down the electric fan road on another vehicle and I just don't feel it is as reliable.
Plus I don't think the Scorpio electrics are up to it.

I put in a 180F thermostat and I drilled a small bypass hole in it. My previous Scorpio had a head crack and I intend to avoid that issue.

Ditto on the blue Felpros...mandatory. Rock auto had them at a good price.

Have fun in the Spring.
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Cleat
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Re: Engine mounts.

Post by Cleat »

This engine is in an XR and I don't think a clutch fan will fit.

Cleat
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