Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

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brokencase
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Re: Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

Post by brokencase »

Yea, I'm wondering how the XR4ti guys are dealing with this issue. If Ed's original rebounds are gone, and mine were just about all gone then what is everyone else's situation?

I don't think it is a good idea to run without these. I think they help prevent the the shocks from hitting their internal stops and keep the tires from rubbing against the body on hard bumps. They also limit body roll.

Pretty sure the Xr4tis and SIerras have the same setup so these should work for those as well.
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Ed Lijewski
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Re: Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

Post by Ed Lijewski »

Your posts here are the only mention of them I'd seen here, IMON/MCA list, on either Scorpio or XR.

Bart Dyshuk posted earlier this year on FB about finding them disintegrating on a Scorpio rear suspension he was rebuilding; he got something from Ebay (can't recall origin) that looked good that he installed.

https://m.facebook.com/bart.dyshuk/post ... d%3D&mdf=1


https://m.facebook.com/groups/105851101 ... 46291&_rdr

I might put the set you're making for me on my DD XR; or maybe I'll ask you for a second set. :notworthy

Chris Grayson of MC2 Racing might have info, personal experience, or certainly informed perspective on suspension and snubbers.

YMMV
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brokencase
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Re: Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

Post by brokencase »

I think one of the commercial polyurethane vendor's makes a generic rebound. But it is solid and hard.
I don't think that is what you want here. Plus you will probably have to remove the springs to get them installed.

Its like the replacement body mount kit for the explorers/sport tracs. The original Ford mounts are a foamed polyurethane. They were designed to reduce noise, vibration and harshness (with the sad trade off of decomposing after 10 years)

The aftermarket replacements are solid 85 durometer. They fit nice and will probably last forever.

But the ride of the truck is now much more harsh. I can feel every pebble in the pavement. It actually sucks.

I can't believe the vendor didn't even try to mold some cavities into the mounts to at least soften them a little.
I get the feeling that Prothane & Energy Suspension (+others) only have a single polyurethane formulation and all they do is mold it
into whatever.

But I had no choice in the matter. I think the original mounts from Ford would have cost around $900. The aftermarket kit was $130.

It would be nice to 3d print new Sport Trac body mounts, But I would have to pull the old ones off and take measurements (which would be a pain)...and it would probably take a month to 3d print all the new mounts. There are 16 pieces each larger that the Scorpio rebounds.
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Ed Lijewski
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Re: Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

Post by Ed Lijewski »

Dean:

Could you please post below the pictures above which apparently are unavailable? No need for repeat descriptions, just the photos.

I have the rear of my '88 up in the air (swapping half shafts...will post about this in the CV Axle thread) and will try inserting them tomorrow.

Thanks.
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Ed Lijewski
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Re: Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

Post by Ed Lijewski »

Cancel above.

They're "in".

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brokencase
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Re: Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

Post by brokencase »

Sorry I missed your post Ed.

I tried to edit the above post to insert the original pictures but it wouldn't let me because board hosted imaged are limited to three per post.

I'll repost the pics. You basically squeeze them sideways through the coil spring with some long nose vise grips
Once inside apply a bit of silicone to the base and lever them on to the stud with a screwdriver.

BTW, I checked the condition of mine when I installed my new exhaust and they appear to be holding up well
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Re: Rear Suspension Rebound Snubbers

Post by Ed Lijewski »

No problemo. I reread your post instructions and visualized the technique enough to try it. First on the passenger side: squeezed, muscled, finally hammered it in. Then using the drain hole in the arm below the spring I used a screw driver to place the damper up and centered at the bulb point, then with a long, thin pry bar levered it upward. Took 2-3 tries and it slid in.

The driver's side was a different story due to less access because of the exhaust pipe. After a while I decided to approach the spring from the outside. Took longer to get the damper through the spring but I got it in.

Thanks for these!

YMMV
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