Scorpio heater core replacement
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Well, I follow the instructions as per Shop Manual 36-74-11. These plastic ducts were covering access to the mounting screws. No, I didn't remove the vents, only the plastic ducts for access. As you said, in order to slide out the core, the box itself must be moved forward to clear core plastic hoses out of the firewall. The core itself and those 2 Phillips screws are now visible and I will proceed accordingly. I haven't done this job before, so I go slow and plan every move. Being a sideshow to my daytime job, the progress may not be spectacular. Unless, I am doing something totally wrong, these steps were necessary to properly remove the heater core.
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Progress report:
Today, is the day of days. After a couple of hours of work, I was able to remove the old heater core from the assembly box. There were a few moments from hell, like short rubber hoses connecting core to the water valve. I had to unscrew the distributor cap in order to get some access for a screwdriver. So, I got out. Next week, I will test both cores for pressure to be sure the new one works and to find out where to old one leaks. That's all for now, time for some relaxation.
Today, is the day of days. After a couple of hours of work, I was able to remove the old heater core from the assembly box. There were a few moments from hell, like short rubber hoses connecting core to the water valve. I had to unscrew the distributor cap in order to get some access for a screwdriver. So, I got out. Next week, I will test both cores for pressure to be sure the new one works and to find out where to old one leaks. That's all for now, time for some relaxation.
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Congrats on the progress.
I'm facing a lawn mower that decided it doesn't want to start anymore and my 2000 Sable Wgn has a CEL from Evaporative emissions circuit fault.
I finished upgrading my wife's Mac today. Maybe I should quit while I'm ahead.
I'm facing a lawn mower that decided it doesn't want to start anymore and my 2000 Sable Wgn has a CEL from Evaporative emissions circuit fault.
I finished upgrading my wife's Mac today. Maybe I should quit while I'm ahead.
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Thank you, Bob. Appreciate it. Needless to say, that if not for extensive research done online, studying the Manual and yours and other members advice, I wouldn't do it. The work required to gain access was laborious enough. During the process, I discovered many upper and lower dash elements either broken due to sloppy mechanic's work or in need of repair for wear and tear. Found one electrical wire with two connectors unplugged and wonder where they belong. There is a lamp inside the glove compartment but don't see any wiring leading to it. Also, need to restore the plastic end of shift gear selector frame where it meets the lower dash. Broken end piece. The short rubber hoses leading to the heater core from the water valve seemed intact, no torn edges or worn rubber. Will replace the metal clams with better ones, as these gave me a hard time to unscrew. Much work ahead, but must gratefully acknowledge the heater core slid out of the box like you said and brought a big smile to my face.
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
I know you're a glutton for punishment, so include a few other items for your frustration.
1] Vent motors at driver's foot. The plastic gears strip sometimes when the vents get stuck. Boss gears available and easy to instal on motors, but frustrating to align. I've never had to do it, but others have.
2] Fan motor controller. I forget the proper name and acronym, but it's sitting on top of the photo I provided. I have a write up on how to test and a replacement if you need it.
3] U wrote: "Found one electrical wire with two connectors unplugged and wonder where they belong. There is a lamp inside the glove compartment but don't see any wiring leading to it."
Luv to help u more, but I don't have any of my 5 Scorpios any more. I can email you piks of wiring diagram from Elec Vac & Vac Book .
Don't forget MCA sponsors for parts. These guys are really good to us Merkur crazies.
Call me anytime 610-248-1481 Leave message if I din't answer.
1] Vent motors at driver's foot. The plastic gears strip sometimes when the vents get stuck. Boss gears available and easy to instal on motors, but frustrating to align. I've never had to do it, but others have.
2] Fan motor controller. I forget the proper name and acronym, but it's sitting on top of the photo I provided. I have a write up on how to test and a replacement if you need it.
3] U wrote: "Found one electrical wire with two connectors unplugged and wonder where they belong. There is a lamp inside the glove compartment but don't see any wiring leading to it."
Luv to help u more, but I don't have any of my 5 Scorpios any more. I can email you piks of wiring diagram from Elec Vac & Vac Book .
Don't forget MCA sponsors for parts. These guys are really good to us Merkur crazies.
Call me anytime 610-248-1481 Leave message if I din't answer.
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Gentlemen,
I am pleased to announce that my new heater core is in. It took me 5 hours to do the job. Started nice and easy, two Phillips screws to fasten the core inside box, but trouble began with making it all fall back in the original setting. I pushed and twisted gently mindful not to break the plastic hoses and finally it went in. Putting the #13 holding nuts was easy on the right side, less so on the left. The real headache began with connecting rubber hoses to plastic ones and tightening the clams. There is virtually no room to maneuver and I put both clams to the right. Big mistake!. Started the engine and it all leaked like a sieve. Well, either the new core was bad and/or my rubber hoses were shot. Drained the coolant and pulled rubber hoses from the core, then did a rig installation of the old core just sitting on the fire wall. Kept the clams very tight and restarted the car. No leak. OK. Dismantled the temporary rig and put the rubber hoses back in. Obviously the leak came from loose clams. Tried to do it with a socket wrench and a screwdriver but both clams were there but not tight enough. Decided to take the battery out and shifted both clams in opposite direction. First, did the lower hose, first with #8 socket and short extension but no wrench. Once I got a better fit, then finished the job with flat wrench. Repeated the same with upper hose, making sure the clam was real tight. Installed battery back, filled the coolant and started the engine. Bingo. No leak, all dry and working. 5 hours of PE. No need to go to a gym. So, for posterity and others who may face a heater core job: put the clams on the left, under the water valve. You will be able to see them and ensure a proper fit. Not sure, if that was an original OEM solution but it does make sense.
Now, some rest and relaxation before next phase, putting lower and upper dashes back. Will keep you posted.
I am pleased to announce that my new heater core is in. It took me 5 hours to do the job. Started nice and easy, two Phillips screws to fasten the core inside box, but trouble began with making it all fall back in the original setting. I pushed and twisted gently mindful not to break the plastic hoses and finally it went in. Putting the #13 holding nuts was easy on the right side, less so on the left. The real headache began with connecting rubber hoses to plastic ones and tightening the clams. There is virtually no room to maneuver and I put both clams to the right. Big mistake!. Started the engine and it all leaked like a sieve. Well, either the new core was bad and/or my rubber hoses were shot. Drained the coolant and pulled rubber hoses from the core, then did a rig installation of the old core just sitting on the fire wall. Kept the clams very tight and restarted the car. No leak. OK. Dismantled the temporary rig and put the rubber hoses back in. Obviously the leak came from loose clams. Tried to do it with a socket wrench and a screwdriver but both clams were there but not tight enough. Decided to take the battery out and shifted both clams in opposite direction. First, did the lower hose, first with #8 socket and short extension but no wrench. Once I got a better fit, then finished the job with flat wrench. Repeated the same with upper hose, making sure the clam was real tight. Installed battery back, filled the coolant and started the engine. Bingo. No leak, all dry and working. 5 hours of PE. No need to go to a gym. So, for posterity and others who may face a heater core job: put the clams on the left, under the water valve. You will be able to see them and ensure a proper fit. Not sure, if that was an original OEM solution but it does make sense.
Now, some rest and relaxation before next phase, putting lower and upper dashes back. Will keep you posted.
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
On the final note. Put everything together back. Core holds pressure, system as well. Getting a yellow warning coolant lamp on, even though replaced the bottle, cap and sensor. Won't be worrying about it now. One remaining mystery is the glove compartment lamp. Two thin wires go in, a grey one and a brown one. Don't know which connects to the front side of the socket and which goes to the one behind the socket. Electrical manual is a little ambivalent. Help anyone?
Another thing. Dried out the floor carpet from previous flooding and my first and failed attempt to pressurize the system. Some coolant got under the floor liner and soaked it real bad. Paper towels absorbed some but it is still uncomfortably moist. Propped up on some plastic plates to allow air in for faster drying. The top hard layer cracks up as drying goes on. Is there any supplier for floor liners anywhere?
Another thing. Dried out the floor carpet from previous flooding and my first and failed attempt to pressurize the system. Some coolant got under the floor liner and soaked it real bad. Paper towels absorbed some but it is still uncomfortably moist. Propped up on some plastic plates to allow air in for faster drying. The top hard layer cracks up as drying goes on. Is there any supplier for floor liners anywhere?
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Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Brown wires are (almost) always ground.
YMMV
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Last weekend, I closed the heater project final chapter. After weeks of drying wet floor liner using both paper towels and open air exposure, the liner seemed fit for laying down. Had a number of broken pieces from the top bituminous layer so I arranged them in the best fit possible. Gaffers tape was then used to hold them in place and reinforce the weak spots of the liner. Worked OK. Did a little pressing down to smooth out the wrinkles and folded back the floor carpet. Taking out the door threshold inner panel allowed me to tuck in the edges of the carpet. Then one plastic panel in the footwell right side and floor mat to top it off. A small, sort of checking the coolant leak job progressed over five months into a sizable restoration of the botched mechanic's work. Finally, and by a coincidence, I worked out the warning coolant level yellow light at dashboard. Turned out that the sensor wiring got loose from the housing and didn't connect properly. A simple push inside fixed the issue and what a joy. No more warning lights on start up. Owning Scorpio is both a challenge and a source of pride. People admiringly look at it and ask me about the car origins. Are we turning into a classic car owners club?
PeterP11c
PeterP11c
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Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
We are an underappreciated classic car owners club.
Yes - there is plenty of head turning. I've pulled up into a parking lot and had a young motorhead comment "Wow - that's a rare car!".
But the Hagerty valuation tool sums things up. Take pride in your accomplishments with your repairs. They are respected only by the rest of us here.
Specialization is for Insects
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
For a while I thought my cooling system was an issue fixed and to be forgotten. Not so fast. Two weeks ago, I was enjoying a Sunday drive on a very hot day (typical L.A. weather). Then pulled into a parking structure to get some things and by a divine authority was compelled to open the hood. My coolant bottle side cap just blew out and lost half of the liquid from the bottle. Luckily got home driving with opened top cap. Upon inspection it turned out my side cap didn't hold the thread anymore and was bent when tightened. Float gasket was also worn out and plastic washer at side bottle cap missing. Since home repairs didn't work for long and was trailing coolant on hot engine I got a float gasket, washer and cap. Replaced the old bottle and float with brand new ones acquired some years ago from Germany. Last night put it all in place. The system pressurized with no problem and engine ran at normal temperature range. Again and again I experience the same predictable outcome: OEM parts work the best.
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Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Yeah, I understand about keeping good parts for later, and not installing them until absolutely needed... For some reason, I'll hang on to some of the best OE/NOS stuff, opting instead to try to get the used stuff to operate at peak. Maybe just forgot about it, or its something to do with being prepared with quality stuff years from now when you almost can't get replacements. Or, last ditch sales if I ever need to. Or, just being cheap. Dunno
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
I think it has more to do with being apprehensive about ever shrinking parts market for Scorpio. Years ago, I wouldn't give it a thought, just ordered from a dealer and installed. Now, even aftermarket parts don't cover the entire spectrum and some parts, especially made in China are defective from the get go. Recently bought a brand new air bypass valve and had to return it. The car stalled right away. So in the spirit of recycling parts, I saved my old coolant bottle and repaired the float wires that got torn off. Side cap is another matter, but I thought about putting a metal clamp around it and tighten real hard. Perhaps that will keep it from bending and jumping tread.
After the holidays, I plan on revisiting the faulty odometer issue. Had it repaired before by replacing that small plastic gear but it stopped working after a short while.
After the holidays, I plan on revisiting the faulty odometer issue. Had it repaired before by replacing that small plastic gear but it stopped working after a short while.
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Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
Just reviewed this thread as I'm doing a bunch of stuff to the Scorpio, including a new heater core. I figure the original is now 35 years old, so proactive replacement is in order. I'll be deleting the valve, so replumbing the lines will be much less cumbersome.
Curious, did the "mechanic" you initially took the car to actually even put in a new core, or did he just simply break a bunch of stuff and not actually do anything productive?
Curious, did the "mechanic" you initially took the car to actually even put in a new core, or did he just simply break a bunch of stuff and not actually do anything productive?
Brad
Re: Scorpio heater core replacement
From my previous post in this thread
"Takes a bit of maneuvering to get lower dash out and almost impossible to replace without breaking it when reinstalling. That's why the workshop manual says to remove the gear shift by disconnecting the linkage."
I strongly suggest you remove the gear shift lever. If not, a part of the lower dash will get caught.
If due to your mechanical expertise, you're able to remove lower dash without removing shift lever, please tell us how you did it.
"Takes a bit of maneuvering to get lower dash out and almost impossible to replace without breaking it when reinstalling. That's why the workshop manual says to remove the gear shift by disconnecting the linkage."
I strongly suggest you remove the gear shift lever. If not, a part of the lower dash will get caught.
If due to your mechanical expertise, you're able to remove lower dash without removing shift lever, please tell us how you did it.