No worries, too many TLAs and FLAs out there (Three Letter Acronyms and Four Letter Acronyms), especially in the automotive world. In one of my previous lives I had to create a 4 page document for all the project members so they could understand all the acronyms.
Must say I'm envious of your 5.0L ride. Maybe someday in the future - too many projects on the go.
Hello Andy,
Interesting insight. Actually the Ethanol component is hydroscopic (like brake fluid), so water in the fuel could be an issue. Some classic car and bike owners in the UK are using kits to remove the Ethanol from their fuel - must be done before the putting in the fuel tank. Not easy as one would need two 5 gallon containers for the process. OK for bike owners but a pain for anyone with a car.
Hope it helps.
Thank you and take care,
Peter
1988 Merkur Scorpio, 1988 Plymouth Caravelle (police package), 1994 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon, 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS Touring
It has to do with making less smog during the summer. The gas must meet a different volatility standard during certain months, so something like an additive package may change. Where I live they sell gas with 0-10 percent ethanol,15 percent ethanol, and 85 percent ethanol year round. So I'm assuming there are plenty of other additives they can adjust to meet the EPA requirement. Just think about how fast some VOC like ether or carburetor spray will evaporate. That contributes to ground level ozone. So even if the octane rating is the same the actual fuel may be slightly different, even if you are able to find ethanol free fuel.
The best way to keep your Kia from being stolen is to not have a Kia.
Re FAI's assumed Ford OEM ACT sensor fully enclosed in brass, how can that accurately sense temp changes? Yes, on a dead cold engine at start-up its reading should be outside ambient or close to it. But to/through warm-up and underway how can it read ambient temps, which might change moderately or more in relatively short times (altitude changes, full cloud shade, idling in full summer traffic)?
On my 88 the first CEL was for the ACT. Mileage was ~100K then. The sensor probe was exposed, not encased. Probe had a lot of carbon on it. Didn't look to see if it had any identifying info on it.
FAI's fully enclosed ACT too strongly resembles an ECT sensor. I suspect an ECT sensor installed in the ACT port would not result in an alert or stored code by the EEC-IV; it would merrily conduct operations without reason to suspect reliance on an erroneous sensor in the ACT port. ACT readings would still be within table range even if not optimally responsive to ambient air temp changes.
YMMV
Last edited by Ed Lijewski on Fri Sep 17, 2021 4:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Well... I installed a new MAP and that did not solve the problem.
Certainly building up a library of spare sensors:) Which I don't mind. Happy to have fresh sensors installed in a 35 year old car.
I need to start exploring ignition issues next. But it sure feels like a vacuum leak somewhere.
Ed...I bought a Delphi ACT and it is only slightly different that the original ACT. It still has the brass construction and "A-frame" then the little thermistor bead.
The bead is exposed because they want rapid thermal transfer from the intake air to the thermistor. They also do not want a large thermal mass associated with the sensing element. I don't think a light coating of "intake carbon" will impact it too much. But if it gets very thick then it will start making a difference.
In any case, I would say that the ACT is less reliable than the ECT, simply because the thermistor bead is exposed. However I have only seen the ECT fail in my old Scorpio.
Ed Lijewski wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 4:53 pm
Well, you clearly have an EEC-IV enigmatic syndrome, which we'll identify here as DSOCI (Dean's Stumble Off Cold Idle).
This morning I installed a new cap an rotor and verified ignition timing.
No improvement. I actually advanced and retarded the timing slightly to see if that would help and it did not.
So I set it a 10 BTDC and left it at that.
BTW, I changed cap and rotor in 2016 with a cheapy one that had aluminum posts.
Glad I installed the new one with brass posts today. The aluminum posts were noticeably corroded on the old cap.
..and I have not put that many miles on my car since that time.
The only thing I can think of at this point is that it is a problem with the fuel injectors.
But I want to be certain that is the problem before I start pulling the manifold off.
I have not messed with the TFI either. But I don't think the symptoms I am experiencing could be attributable to the TFI....Right?
brokencase wrote: ↑Fri Sep 17, 2021 11:14 am
I didn't think it was so much about smog as it was about volatility.
In other words you need higher volatility in the winter for easier starting. Lesser volatility in the summer.
In any case I don't believe the fuel in my tank is the issue.
Nope. The EPA does this for environmental reasons. It usually says something like cleaner gas RVP June 1 through Sept 15. I know you posted a few days before this date. But they are allowed some leeway under certain circumstances. Like how we had the hurricanes and fuel shortages. If you live in a certain high smog area you may be getting the cleaner gas year round. Maybe you are thinking of the advertising from certain brands that talk about how their gas will clean your engine, or prevent fuel line freeze up. But these EPA laws are for all the fuel sold. So it is very possible that an older car will take some time to adjust to the new stuff. I would just disconnect the battery when you are done driving for the day, then reconnect it the next morning. That always worked for me.
The best way to keep your Kia from being stolen is to not have a Kia.
It was the Idle control solenoid. I had previously cleaned it, but I did not test it.
With the ISC removed I took some large rubber tubing and I blew through each port. I noticed no restriction when blowing through either port.
I then removed the solenoid from the valve itself and then rotated and seated the valve. I then noticed that on one port I could not blow through. Which is what I expected.
However when I re-attached the solenoid the the valve the valve was slightly pressed open again.
So what I did is added another O-ring between the valve and the solenoid such as the valve remained closed.
Started the car and the hesitation problem is gone.
There appears to be a spring in the valve and a spring in the solenoid. They work against each other slightly. I think the valve's spring is worn out.
Such that it can't keep the valve closed against the spring in the solenoid.
So I am going to look for a new ISC
Anybody ever run into this? Interested to hear FreshAirInspector's comments as I know he recently played around with ISC's
No more DSOCI Ed! But it is funny you mentioned the air filter. In my desperation today I also pulled the filter off, cleaned it and resprayed it with K&N oil. But I knew that was not the issue, but I am glad I cleaned it.
But I am irritated that the the EECIV could not detect this failure. Especially during the "stomp on the throttle" phase of KOER.
Have cleaned IACs thoroughly multiple times by taking off the solenoid, then spritzing brake cleaner into the valve and shaking it. Then depressing and rotating the pintle while spritzing with brake cleaner. And repeating all steps again.
Never found the situation you describe. Always found the internal springs in each component to work properly. (I have four Merks so I've serviced their IACs many times.)
I do replace the O-ring with one a hair thicker to assure sealing between the two components.
I don't think what you found correlates with the issue occurring cold but disappearing warm.
And I wouldn't celebrate until after a few morning cold starts with the issue not recurring. DSOCI remains until those road tests.
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
