Distributor O-ring Replacement

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello All,

On Oct 26th I posted a thread about oil consumption and mentioned the plan to replace the distributor O-ring. This was not successful as my O-ring selection did not have the correct size.

As Brokencase indicated in my Oil Consumption post, Dorman 80024 is a package with a selection of 13 O-rings, one of which is supposed to be an exact fit. I assume Advance and O'Reilly would also carry it.

I did find the Dorman item under NAPA as p/n OES 7151319. I purchased the NAPA item and it did NOT have the correct size O-ring.

For your reference the O-ring dimensions are as follow; 30mm inside diameter (ID), 34mm outside diameter with a 2mm cross section.

Since the NAPA item was not a solution, I went to a local truck repair shop that carries a HUGE inventory of O-rings and they were able to find a perfect match. So I bought 5 – they were only $0.70 CAD ($0.57 USD), each. I will keep one O-ring as a spare, the other three as giveaways – one per forum member. Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll send one snail mail.

Tools Required;
1, 3/8” - 13mm socket (standard 6 point)
2, 3/8” - 14mm socket (standard 6 point)
3, 3/8” U-joint
4, 3/8” extension (25cm / 10”)
5, 3/8” ratchet
6, 1/2”- 24mm socket (standard 6 point)
7, 1/2” ratchet
8, 8mm open end wrench (idle speed set screw lock nut)
9, small slot head screwdriver (i.e. jewellers screwdriver – to adjust idle speed)
10, 15cm / 6” or 25cm / 10” thin slot screwdriver
11, hook tool (2) (similar to what you would use to pull an oil seal)
12, felt tip marker
13, red or silver paint
14, toothpick
15, timing light
16, flexible or extendable magnet
17, Varsol (ideally in a spray bottle), plus a 1” paint brush
18, trouble light (LED if possible)
19, shop towels

Confirm where the oil is leaking from, the distributor O-ring tends to send oil down the passenger side of the bell housing and the edge of the cylinder head by the lower rear most head bolt. The rear of the intake manifold could also be the source but this is rare. The latter will be apparent once the distributor has been removed. Either leak can appear to be a rear crankshaft oil seal leak because of where the drips appear on the bottom of the bell housing.

Remove the plug wires from the separators on the valve cover then remove the distributor cap and place this out of the way. Now comes the first challenge, removing the TFI electrical connector (Thick Film Ignition). Bear in mind it has a locking tab on the rear side (firewall side). This needs to be pulled away SLIGHTLY to prevent breakage – I ended up breaking one half of the tab. This tab is very brittle due to age and heat from the engine compartment. A very thin screwdriver slid under the locking tab should do the trick. Rock the connector up and down while pulling firmly, I had to use two small hook tools. DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES!!!

Note that the TFI connector wiring has two short wires ending in a small connector with a removable plug. This is the SPOUT connector that will used during the adjustment of the ignition timing. This will be outlined towards the end of this post.

With the 24mm socket and the 1/2” ratchet, use the alternator pulley bolt to rotate the engine counter clockwise until the notch on the crankshaft pulley stops opposite 0 on the timing reference plate on the timing chain cover (passenger side of cover). Check the distributor rotor to ensure it pointing towards the passenger front seat (#1 spark plug wire). If you are unsure, temporary place the distributor cap on the distributor and verify it is pointing to #1 (note; most distributor caps have a '1' cast in the cap opposite the plug wire terminal). If the rotor is pointing towards the drivers headlight, rotate the engine another 180 degrees and align the timing marks.

It is highly recommended that you use the red or silver paint to 'highlight' the notch on the crankshaft pulley. Use the toothpick to put a drop of paint in the notch. This assumes you have a timing light and plan to check the timing when you are done.

Dist Oring - 01R.jpg (353.91 KiB) Viewed 2098 times

With the felt tip mark the middle of the rotor tip and the edge of the distributor housing directly below that (reference point 2). As a precaution place a mark on the top of the reluctor and the distributor housing directly opposite (reference point 3). These will be your two reference points when reinstalling the distributor. Note, reference point 1 will be noted later in this post.

Dist Oring - 02R.jpg (328.52 KiB) Viewed 2098 times

Challenge number two, the distributor clamp. This will require the 13mm socket, U-joint, 25cm / 10” extension and ratchet. You will be working at a weird angle and the object here is to break the bolt free. The U-joint and the working angle may prevent you from unscrewing the bolt. This is where the 14mm socket maybe the solution. The 14mm is not a typo, although it loosely fits the bolt, it will have just enough purchase to allow you to turn the bolt relatively easily and remove it. Be patient.

Dist Oring - 03R.jpg (243.11 KiB) Viewed 2098 times

Removing the clamp bolt probably will probably include the clamp itself. You may require a flexible or extendable magnet to retrieve the bolt and clamp. Set the bolt and clamp to one side – spray the two pieces with Varsol to degrease if required. The paint brush may help here.

Using the trouble light check the area around the base of the distributor to see how much oil and debris there is. You don't want that mess to fall into the engine block when the distributor is pulled out. It will be difficult but try to spray a little Varsol around the distributor base, move it around with the paint brush to loosen as much as possible. Use the shop towels to clean up as much as possible, the long thin screwdriver may help with the clean up. Bear in mind you won't be able thoroughly clean the whole area, just do the best you can.

See next post for Part II.

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Part II

The distributor can now be removed. Carefully move the distributor back and forth while pulling upwards. Note that the rotor moves about 30 degrees counter clockwise as you pull out the distributor, this is due to the meshing of the helical cut distributor and camshaft gears. Before pulling the distributor out completely, mark the housing directly below the felt tip mark on the rotor. This will be reference point number 1 that you will use when reinstalling the distributor. Get reference point number 1 correct during install, number 2 and 3 will align automatically or very close to where it should be. Cover the hole in the block to prevent debris from falling in.

If the O-ring near the base of the distributor housing is the original one from the factory it will be hard as a piece of plastic.

Dist Oring - 04R.jpg (242.73 KiB) Viewed 2097 times

Use a small jewellers flat head screwdriver to remove the old O-ring. Be careful to not damage the Aluminium alloy housing, especially the channel for the O-ring.

Thoroughly clean out the channel, lightly oil the new O-ring and then install by gently rolling it other the drive gear and lower housing.

Remove the debris cover from the distributor hole in the block and check to see if the area requires additional cleaning. If required do so VERY CAREFULLY to ensure debris does not end up in the engine block. NOTE; the picture below was taken BEFORE the area below the distributor was cleaned.

Dist Oring - 05R.jpg (358.85 KiB) Viewed 2097 times

Oil the lower distributor housing, line up the felt tip marks on the rotor and the reluctor align with the one on the distributor housing (reference point 2 and 3), and gently lower the distributor back into the hole in the block. NOTE that the rotor turns clockwise and should end up with the felt tip marks for 'reference point 1', aligned. Because the O-ring is new, it is a very tight fit and you will have to rotate the distributor back and forth while pushing down. The last few millimetres are the most difficult. Use your index finger to check that the distributor is fully seated against the block.

Now comes the challenge of reinstalling the distributor clamp and bolt. It is tight but it can be done with two fingers at most. Try to tighten the bolt by hand. Double check your 'felt tip' alignment marks, now use the 3/8” 13mm socket, 3/8” universal joint, 3/8” 25cm / 10” extension and 3/8' ratchet to snug up the bolt but do NOT tighten. NOTE a 14mm socket may make it easier to snug up the bolt.

Install the distributor cap and clip the spark plug wires back into the valve cover wire separators. Double check everything and start the car.

Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature and connect your timing light to set your timing. Under the plastic cover attached to the underside of your hood is the timing and idle speed specifications. It will probably say 10 degrees Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC).

Shut off the engine, remove the SPOUT (2 pin plug connector on the TFI wiring harness), and restart the engine. Use the timing light to check the timing (refer to the first picture as reference). Rotate the distributor as required to adjust the timing. To advance the timing rotate the distributor counter clockwise, to retard the timing, rotate the distributor clockwise.

Once the timing is set, tighten the distributor clamp bolt. Use roughly the same torque as you would to tighten a spark plug.

No timing light – you will have to use the 'old school' method of advancing the timing until it pings and then back it off a degree or two. As with the timing light, this method must be done with the engine at normal operating temperature.

With the clamp bolt snug you advance (rotate counter clockwise), about 1 or 2mm at a time. If you do this while the engine is running you will hear the idle speed increase slightly. Now drive the car with the radio and EATC turned off, do a few acceleration runs and listen for pinging (metallic rattling sound). If you hear pinging the timing has been advanced too far and you need to rotate the distributor in a clockwise direction about 1 or 2mm. Test drive again. It may take a few test drives to get it right.

When you have completed the above your idle speed may need adjustment. This is quite straight forward.

1, Engine at normal operating temperature.

2, Disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC aka Air Bypass Valve), valve (make sure the connector doesn't foul the cooling fan).

3, Start the engine and operate at 2,000 rpm for approximately 30 seconds.

4, Allow the engine to idle and check the base idle.

5, Firmly hold the throttle plate and loosen the throttle camplate roller bolt (10mm bolt).

6, Adjust the throttle stop screw to obtain an idle speed of ~700 RPM.

7, Firmly hold the throttle plate and tighten the throttle camplate roller bolt (10mm bolt).

8, Rev the engine to 2,000 rpm for approximately 30 seconds twice to ensure the throttle plates are free.

9, Turn off the engine and reconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.

10, Check that the throttle can move freely from idle to wide open and back without binding.

Now, step back, smile, grab your favourite beverage and revel in the knowledge that you have solved your oil leak.

Hope it helps.

[brokencase]

I did find the Dorman item under NAPA as p/n OES 7151319. I purchased the NAPA item and it did NOT have the correct size O-ring.

They must have changed the assortment. It worked for me!

I see this on NAPA, but that does not look like what I got.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE6551 ... sionRank=1

Could not find 7151319

I used this to get to the distributor bolt.
https://www.harborfreight.com/t-bar-wit ... 98484.html

Someone bought that for me as an xmas gift a long time ago. Haven't used for anything else!

BTW, the original faded valve covers look to have a goldish hue - almost what I would describe as Evinrude Outboard Gold. This is deceptive.

They were actually silver when brand new. Try to get a hold of member Saul Rifkin.
He at one time had spray cans made up of the correct color. Not sure if he still has any left.

It was not a real shiny aluminum silver, just a basic medium metallic silver - with maybe a slight hint of titanium. Like the kind of silver a car body would be painted in. I sprayed the paint on the sheet of paper to help you match it. If Saul no longer has then you should be able to get something close at the auto parts store.

vavlecoverpaint.jpg (201.81 KiB) Viewed 2087 times

[Ed Lijewski]

Funny. Several years ago on my '88 I adjusted distributor timing. Got the bolt loose without special effort or tools. Made a BIG difference in engine performance.

Couple months ago thought to check/adjust timing on my '89. Probably more tools in my tool chest (visits to HF; Christmas seasons specials purchased at HD). Couldn't loosen the bolt.

But...that special flexible ratchet tool reminded me that I bought years ago an L-shaped 6 point (IIRC) head distributor hold down bolt removal tool. I'll have to try it on the '89.

YMMV

[Fresh Air Inspector]

Hello Brokencase,

Yes, pity about the distributor O-rings, could just be the difference between the Dorman item you purchased and the NAPA one I got.

The reason the valve covers are gold (engine enamel), is because I painted them. I have a thing about a dirty engine compartment, so I always scrub the hell out of any 'new' vehicle I purchase. The engine and drivetrain are closely inspected and any consumable or potential 'breakdown' item is replaced or repaired. Plus I like a little colour when opening the hood so the valve covers were painted and all the vacuum hoses replaced with Silicone in different colours along with heat shrink bands where required to simplify tracing. Below is a picture on my engine compartment.

Hello Ed,

I wish we had Habour Freight in Canada. A flexible ratchet might be a good option. I have a 3/8" 'crow foot' wrench set that I have used on occasion, these may also work. However, I have found that the mount of torque one can apply to the bolt or nut is limited. In addition, the design limits the amount of movement you can make with each stroke of the ratchet.

If I may suggest, try the following;
1. Take the car for a long run to thoroughly warm up the engine, then let it sit for 15 minutes with the hood closed.
2. Take a long punch or drift and with a small hammer give the head of the bolt a good smack or two.
3. Now try using a 3/8" ratchet with a 25cm / 10" extension, U-joint and shallow 13mm 6 point socket. Ensure the U-joint won't bind when you apply torque and push hard! OR Use the flexible ratchet you have. The engine heat and the blow(s) with the hammer / drift should break the bolt loose. If not, read on ....
4. If you have the above tools in an 'impact' version then try the impact gun but use low torque, U-joints can 'kink' and may cause damage to the underside of the distributor..
5. Don't forget to use anti-seize compound when reassembling.

Engine Compartment - 1R.jpg (322.31 KiB) Viewed 2073 times

Hope it helps.

[brokencase]

Your engine bay looks immaculate...except for the valve covers.

In fact, if you painted your valve covers the same as the body then you would be in good shape.

Duplicolor BCC0425 "Light Almond Pearl" will get you very close to the original valve cover color. But it is a little on the golden side.

I actually photographed my original motor stickers. I then digitally cleaned them up and I am able to inkjet reprint them on high temperature sticker media.