WTF is this

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ohnoes
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WTF is this

Post by ohnoes »

So we jack up the car and take off the heatshield and see this.

Image

1) What is this?
2) What does it look like originally? (a picture would help)
3) How much does it cost?
4) How is it installed?
Emily
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Post by Chuck W »

That is what's left of your driveshaft coupler (or guibo). That is probably what was causing the nasty noises you thought was the trans.

New guibos will run you about $50-60 and you should also replace the transmission mount as well. The biggest issue with these is getting the driveshaft alignment dialed in after replacing them. If you don't, you'll be doing this all over again.

There was less than that left in the one that was in my car when I got it. I have since gone to a custom 1-piece driveshaft (shortened aluminum one from an Areostar minivan).

I would hazzard a guess that you're looking at about $150-200 for the parts.
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Post by MerkXRTurbo »

HOLY CRAP!!! I CAN'T BELEIVE HOW F*CKED UP THAT GUIBO IS!!!!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Do you know that the vibration can crack the tranny?
3" mandrel bent exhaust, Ported/Polished head, 1.89/1.57 valves, Gutted uppper/Knife edge lower intake, T3/T4, LA3, Big VAM, Cold air intake, 40bob header, Gillis valve, Forge BOV, Mustang SVO T5, Conquest intercooler, 20psi.
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Post by MerkXRTurbo »

Here's what it's supposed to look like:

Image
3" mandrel bent exhaust, Ported/Polished head, 1.89/1.57 valves, Gutted uppper/Knife edge lower intake, T3/T4, LA3, Big VAM, Cold air intake, 40bob header, Gillis valve, Forge BOV, Mustang SVO T5, Conquest intercooler, 20psi.
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phild765
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Coupler Replacement

Post by phild765 »

I sell a lot of couplers too Scorpio owners who even after I tell them they should replace the trans mount at the same time or they will be buying another coupler when that one explodes. Some do take my advice and some don't so I end up selling them 2 couplers and one trans mount. Save yourself time and money buy both at the same time and install and align them when you install them. Here is the link for the ones I sell:
http://www.opmd.com/main.cfm?tpl=catalo ... &start=all

Phil D
opmd.com
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ohnoes
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Post by ohnoes »

How are you supposed to align them? And install them? And whatever I need to know to be able to do this?
Emily
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Post by Ed Lijewski »

Told ya' the likely culprit was the guibo (rubber donut) :P

YMMV 8)

[See my answer to your other post re alignment. Don't replace the driveshaft !; just replace the guibo (rubber donut) and the transmission moung as Phil from OPMD said.]
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Post by Ed Lijewski »

I'm fascinated by this and re-read Emily's first post on this (different title) yesterday and stared at the picture above for minutes...

Re guibo/donut installation: assuming none of the bolt arms of the transmission side and driveshaft side of the coupler are damaged, all that's required is to loosen the nuts and remove the bolts. Then, place the new guibo/donut between the couplers and insert the bolts/nuts (you may have to loosen the Center Support Bearing housing on the driveshaft to drop the driveshaft a bit to give you enough room to install the new guibo/donut). After, reverse the above steps.

As Phil (OPMD) said, also install at this time a new transmission mount; once these get old they allow the transmission to sag and that puts the driveshaft coupler on the transmission side out of alignment with its mate on the driveshaft side. That causes premature wear and eventual failure, usually remedied before it gets as bad as in your case.

You don't absolutely have to align the driveshaft. Once the above is completed, drive the car and observe if it's back in order with no unusual vibrations or shudders above a reasonable modest expected amount on take off from a standing start. If so, just get on with life. :wink:

YMMV 8)

[Edit: I forgot to add that I'm sure what you smelled when this occurred was pieces of the rubber donut being roasted like chestnuts on the catalytic converter heat shield or exhaust pipe.]
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Post by MerkXRTurbo »

No, you better align the driveshaft. If you don't, it will bust the guibo again weather you can feel a vibration or not. Mine was out of line when I got it, and I never felt a thing up to 125mph.
3" mandrel bent exhaust, Ported/Polished head, 1.89/1.57 valves, Gutted uppper/Knife edge lower intake, T3/T4, LA3, Big VAM, Cold air intake, 40bob header, Gillis valve, Forge BOV, Mustang SVO T5, Conquest intercooler, 20psi.
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Post by ohnoes »

Well, we got it fixed. Got a new guibo and put it in, we couldnt get a new tranny mount yet cause we currently really need to get this car working as soon as possible plus we don't have enough money right now. Eventually (hopefully as soon as possible) I'll be buying a tranny mount (most likely from opmd.com :wink: ) and replacing that then probably checking the driveshaft alignment because we didn't align it PERFECTLY.

:D
Emily
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Post by Chuck W »

ohnoes wrote:Well, we got it fixed. Got a new guibo and put it in, we couldnt get a new tranny mount yet cause we currently really need to get this car working as soon as possible plus we don't have enough money right now. Eventually (hopefully as soon as possible) I'll be buying a tranny mount (most likely from opmd.com :wink: ) and replacing that then probably checking the driveshaft alignment because we didn't align it PERFECTLY.

:D
Glad you got in back on the road. I did my best to help your b/f over IM ;) He said you guys may be in Indy this weekend. If so I gave him my number as you guys will be driving right past me to get to the Speedway. I have those parts for you.
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Post by MerkXRTurbo »

AlexD wrote:Dang you killed you're guibo :shock:
Where have you been? :wink:
3" mandrel bent exhaust, Ported/Polished head, 1.89/1.57 valves, Gutted uppper/Knife edge lower intake, T3/T4, LA3, Big VAM, Cold air intake, 40bob header, Gillis valve, Forge BOV, Mustang SVO T5, Conquest intercooler, 20psi.
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wow, looks like mine!

Post by brmcandy »

That looks as bad as the one that came out of mine Monday! I had one better:
center joint and bearing shot
rear joint bad
driveline rusted
fuel line rusted and ready to break
all brakes toast
fuel hoses on engine cooked
power steering rack baked and leaking
secendary cooling fan frozen
blower motor fried
only the gas gage , radio and electric seats worked
rear main leaking
body underside, frame and motor rusted
miles unknown due to speedometer/odometer wasted

that car now sets just out of battleground Wa, awaiting disasembly for any remaining parts.

I got a new car coming next week (an XR4Ti)

Candy
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Post by Ed Lijewski »

ohnoes wrote:Well, we got it fixed. Got a new guibo and put it in, we couldnt get a new tranny mount yet cause we currently really need to get this car working as soon as possible plus we don't have enough money right now. Eventually (hopefully as soon as possible) I'll be buying a tranny mount (most likely from opmd.com :wink: ) and replacing that then probably checking the driveshaft alignment because we didn't align it PERFECTLY.

:D

Not to worry; whatever driveline vibrations there might be will be good vibrations, right Emily? :wink: :wink: [Maybe about 29-30mph in the city, and 64-65mph on the highway, with the accelerator pedal steady for miles and miles....? ] :D

YMMV 8)
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Post by RW15241 »

I have new trans mts & Guibo's

rwolf15241@aol.com
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