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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:06 pm 
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Does anyone know if the factory padding/sound deadening insulation under the carpet extends all the way up the firewall behind the dash?

I need to cut a hole in the floor to do the infamous sway bar bushing clamp captive nut fix and I'd rather not tear the whole dash out to get the underlayment out in one piece...I'm thinking I'll just cut it where it meets the lower dash...

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1985 XR4TI - one owner - off the road since 1999, finally starting to work on it!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:27 pm 
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I just did this on my 85 XR when I replaced EVERYTHING on the front suspension. The captive nut thing is maddening. I drilled them out, and tapped and put bolts in from the inside with Loctite to prevent spinning. Just pull the carpet back to get to the insulation. I think I had the kick panels and the center console out when I did it. The dash was not a problem. It's that stuff kind of like tar paper, and it does extend all the way up behind the pedals. I cut a nice neat square in it with a carpet knife, and simply laid it back in place on top of the sheet metal I RTV'ed in place to cover the holes when I was done. The carpet holds it in place just fine.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 8:25 am 
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justpushplay wrote:
It's that stuff kind of like tar paper, and it does extend all the way up behind the pedals. I cut a nice neat square in it with a carpet knife, and simply laid it back in place on top of the sheet metal I RTV'ed in place to cover the holes when I was done. The carpet holds it in place just fine.


Thanks for the tip! that makes a lot more sense than trying to remove the underlayment in one piece.

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1985 XR4TI - one owner - off the road since 1999, finally starting to work on it!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 9:46 am 
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One thing that helped minimize the amount of material you end up cutting away was to take a small drill bit from the outside and drill into the floor through the captive nuts. That way you can more accurately locate the holes from the inside, and not cut out more floor board than necessary. When I do the red 88, I'll probably use an appropriately sized hole saw for each bolt instead of cutting away so much with the air tools.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:49 am 
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I've had good success using heli-coils if the nuts are not spinning.

If they are then, well, you've got the right idea.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:25 am 
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Before you do anything, read both pages of this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=7407&hilit=swaybar+bolts&start=15

John V. discusses the way FMS did it-- a better way, methinks.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 4:25 pm 
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John Brennan wrote:
Before you do anything, read both pages of this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=7407&hilit=swaybar+bolts&start=15

John V. discusses the way FMS did it-- a better way, methinks.


Thanks, John! I'm pretty sure I stumbled across that thread when searching and it's definitely a better way. But it requires 2 things I don't have - a welder and the knowledge to use it.

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1985 XR4TI - one owner - off the road since 1999, finally starting to work on it!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 4:29 pm 
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grampy666 wrote:
John Brennan wrote:
Before you do anything, read both pages of this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=7407&hilit=swaybar+bolts&start=15

John V. discusses the way FMS did it-- a better way, methinks.


Thanks, John! I'm pretty sure I stumbled across that thread when searching and it's definitely a better way. But it requires 2 things I don't have - a welder and the knowledge to use it.


Having a shop zap that on for you shouldn't be too bad... sometimes 'ya gotta farm some stuff out.

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1989 XR4Ti 5-Speed
2015 Fiesta ST
2015 Edge


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:09 pm 
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John Brennan wrote:
grampy666 wrote:
John Brennan wrote:
Before you do anything, read both pages of this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=7407&hilit=swaybar+bolts&start=15

John V. discusses the way FMS did it-- a better way, methinks.


Thanks, John! I'm pretty sure I stumbled across that thread when searching and it's definitely a better way. But it requires 2 things I don't have - a welder and the knowledge to use it.


Having a shop zap that on for you shouldn't be too bad... sometimes 'ya gotta farm some stuff out.


From what I understand of the referenced thread, it recommends welding in 12MM flanged nuts.

Won't that cause fitment issues with the body brace?

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1985 XR4TI - one owner - off the road since 1999, finally starting to work on it!


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