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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 12:59 pm 
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Also the factory diagram is incorrect.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:46 pm 
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Here is how ford should have set up the coolant lines from the factory.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:25 am 
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andyofcolumbusmerkur wrote:
Here is how ford should have set up the coolant lines from the factory.


Gotta love the simplicity of old engines. Of course, compared to truly modern engines, the engine bay of a Merkur IS old and simple.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 11:47 am 
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What were you saying...?
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YMMV ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:08 am 
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I'm surprised nobody let me have it for posting a chevy engine.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:31 pm 
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andyofcolumbusmerkur wrote:
I'm surprised nobody let me have it for posting a chevy engine.


Meh... some have even installed Chevy engines... :shock:

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1989 XR4Ti 5-Speed
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 3:18 pm 
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I used the valve from an Aerostar (IIRC) on my Falcon - it's plastic, but has survived over the exhaust manifold for a long time... I don't suspect the Falcon gets anywhere near as hot as the XR, but still a data point. It's the right size, has the right fittings, isn't so much the right shape for an XR. But, maybe ya'll are more imaginative than I.

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Sorry for the small pic, it's quite old. There are a few variations depending on source, all the same in function & layout...

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:12 pm 
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Top pic (engine) has four outlets; enlarged part pic has three.

It seems these options presuppose the removal of the loop to the oil regulator and its associated input from the lower intake. All create new issues to resolve for every one they eliminate. It would seem to me that unless you're eliminating the valve altogether, your best bet is the stock part.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:30 pm 
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John Brennan wrote:
Top pic (engine) has four outlets; enlarged part pic has three.

It seems these options presuppose the removal of the loop to the oil regulator and its associated input from the lower intake. All create new issues to resolve for every one they eliminate. It would seem to me that unless you're eliminating the valve altogether, your best bet is the stock part.


There is a fourth outlet behind the servo, which you can't see.

Here is another view:

Image

Whether or not you remove all the other stuff in the area is really immaterial - the factory valve is a two in, two out - it's either open and sending coolant through the core, or closed and sending it right back out. Not rocket surgery.

Another approach would be do something like some European brands, and use an electric pump to siphon coolant from somewhere and then return it later. The one on my Jag is a two in, two out

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Astronomically expensive new, but they are pretty reliable and fairly readily available in the junkyard.

Others are one in, one out:

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When the pump isn't running, little to no coolant goes through the core. You can dead-end a feed to the pump and return it mostly anywhere on the return (suction) side of the system.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 5:29 pm 
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Indeed, I could not see it in that view-- thanks!

I guess my point is that as these things are still available, why futz around with figuring out another way, with all of its attendant extra parts purchases and unintended consequences.

I also understand that as Merkur owners, "That's what we DO!" applies... :sawzall

But, hey, have at it. I would leave it be, or get rid of it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 6:19 pm 
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Totally agreed, I was just being responsive to the topic.

I have been looking into heater control valves for my Saab - they are NLA - so it's been weighing heavily on my mind. Unfortunately, the Saab uses the HCV to control flow and thus heat... there is no blend door. Much more complicated problem than the XR!


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