Ruined Distributor Gear Teeth

XR4Ti / Sierra / Sierra Cosworth Discussions - Questions, problem resolution, general talk, technical tips and modifications.
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turboplz
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Post by turboplz » Thu Feb 28, 2008 9:40 pm

DEFINITELY WITH OUT A DOUBT DROP THAT OIL PAN AND CLEAN THE PASSAGES OUT!!!

I would go ahead and get a new oil pump too. This is the same exact thing that happened to me and I didn't drop the pan, just poured a few gallons of kerosene through it and about 3 weeks later spun a rod bearing.

It will be a pain in the ass no doubt, but save yourself the hassle of doing a rebuild and get it right the first time.

Also, the next time I ever have to put a new distributor in I will make sure I get a new aux. gear put in as well. The gears have to mesh perfectly and if there's too much tolerance, there goes the teeth...again.
Jason

89 Xr4ti..."Bronze Turd"...long term project/current garage queen

2014 Focus ST

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Post by Slinky » Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:21 am

:? Ok, Anyone have the part number/s for the pan gasket/seals? It's leaking anyways...
-Will

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Post by BeefFajitas » Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:06 am

Were you beating on the car before letting it warm up?
-Nate
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.

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salukixr4ti
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Does it really matter?

Post by salukixr4ti » Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:24 am

Beating on it or not - the stock dist. & access. drive were questionable in reliability. As many people that have had problems with them, it's not just a random failure. The most important thing at this point is to be surgical in making sure any FOD (Foriegn Object Debris) is out of the motor & reinstalling quality parts.
This ain't no disco...It's Wichita.

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Post by Slinky » Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:37 pm

Were you beating on the car before letting it warm up?
Definitely not.
Beating on it or not - the stock dist. & access. drive were questionable in reliability. As many people that have had problems with them, it's not just a random failure. The most important thing at this point is to be surgical in making sure any FOD (Foriegn Object Debris) is out of the motor & reinstalling quality parts.
Thank you. I have already begun investigating a new pan gasket (4-piece right?), pump, and pump screen. The shop manual makes it look pretty straight forward.
-Will

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DPDISXR4Ti
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti » Fri Feb 29, 2008 12:52 pm

BeefFajitas wrote:Were you beating on the car before letting it warm up?
I don't think that's the issue here. In fact, I don't think this is even the "typical" type of failure. The tell-tale data-point is the fact that the distributor "popped up". That can not happen if the distributor is properly secured.

Regardless, good info is provided here. Interesting comment on the quality (or lack thereof) on the rebuilt distributors. The primary reason I've recommended those is because of the challenge in replacing the PIP (gear has to be pressed off and on to access). That would be the first thing I'd look for (a new PIP), if I purchased one of these.

I'm curious how AutoZone is able to bench-test the disty's at the store. Didn't know they had anything to do that. :?
Brad

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Post by fast_xr4@yahoo.com » Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:06 pm

Garret wrote:
fast_xr4@yahoo.com wrote:We know for sure you have metal in your oil pan so you should probably drop the pan and clean it out. I had a roller bearing suck up into the oil pump at 100mph+ and shear the oil pump driveshaft. Not cool. Long story how I ended up there.
Do you run your oil pump pickup without a screen? or was the roller bearing a needle bearing?
Needle bearing from a roller rocker. Which in my twisted mind was combined into roller bearing. The screen on the aftermarket pickup on my XR is much more course. Pretty sure a needle bearing can't get through the stock screen. Kudos to Ford on that. I had half a mind to transfer the ford screen over when i determined that but wasn't confident I'd get it right..
'86 XR 340rwhp @ 5k
'05 STi dp, hdr
'05 Freestyle CAI

BeefFajitas
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Post by BeefFajitas » Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:12 pm

DPDISXR4Ti wrote:
BeefFajitas wrote:Were you beating on the car before letting it warm up?
I don't think that's the issue here. In fact, I don't think this is even the "typical" type of failure. The tell-tale data-point is the fact that the distributor "popped up". That can not happen if the distributor is properly secured.
Oh yeah, I forgot about that. From what I've seen on TF, most of the the oil pump drive failures are a result of cold oil and high rpms.
-Nate
'85 Merk. Back together. Only thing stock is the head and block.

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Post by jasonty » Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:42 pm

after the first time I lost my dizzy and shaft i was told to replace the dizzy w/ a Motorcraft unit. I did not. Now i have a brand new Motorcraft dizzy that will be installed w/ a bronze gear on the chromo shaft...w/ grooved bearings, still up in the air as to weather i will drop the pan....probably will just take it to shop and have them do it after i get the gear in. new motorcraft dizzys can be found cheap! look around. i also have all associated parts, pump, pick up, oil pump drive, etc for this project! hopefully all is good this time around!

DPDISXR4Ti wrote:
BeefFajitas wrote:Were you beating on the car before letting it warm up?
I don't think that's the issue here. In fact, I don't think this is even the "typical" type of failure. The tell-tale data-point is the fact that the distributor "popped up". That can not happen if the distributor is properly secured.

Regardless, good info is provided here. Interesting comment on the quality (or lack thereof) on the rebuilt distributors. The primary reason I've recommended those is because of the challenge in replacing the PIP (gear has to be pressed off and on to access). That would be the first thing I'd look for (a new PIP), if I purchased one of these.

I'm curious how AutoZone is able to bench-test the disty's at the store. Didn't know they had anything to do that. :?
jason yancey
stephens city va
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NOVAMOG



"as long as you keep picking on me I will tend to mad post about me getting mad......"

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Post by Slinky » Sat Mar 01, 2008 12:52 pm

Any tips on removing the aux shaft or crank damper?
-Will

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Post by Frag » Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:02 pm

Slinky wrote:Any tips on removing the aux shaft or crank damper?
There were some basic instructions left on the first page. I think the bolts are easier to removed before loosening the belts.

If your timing belt is not shot, I don't think you will need to remove the belt. If it's questionable though, now is the time to do it since you will be half way though the process. Hows your water pump BTW?

I'm a big fan of using a socket with breaker bar and a short pipe extension. The pipe should be touching the ground so that when you crank the motor over the bolt will loosen. I forget the torque spec, but I believe it's pretty high. Previous owner aor mechanic could of installed with air tools as well.

The shop manual will be helpful with this process as well.
:)

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Post by Slinky » Sat Mar 01, 2008 1:33 pm

Well, I recently bought a new water pump, t-stat, belt/tensioner so that's all going on because I knew something like this would happen lol.

Image[/img]
-Will

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deathbypsi
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Post by deathbypsi » Sun Mar 02, 2008 1:04 pm

I have the Essy billet kit in my old motor and I was going to use all the parts in my Merk motor but when I was getting ready to install them I seen the bronze gear teeth were wore razor blade sharp. There couldnt have been more a few more hours left on that thing before it failed,glad I looked. The motor they came out of was my old Ranger that a drag raced and daily drove,best I could figure the shaft and gear had about 8k miles on them. I dont think there were any problems just the nature of using a bronze gear in a daily driver,something to think about if anyone goes with one of these kits.I will be getting another bronze gear to replace mine for my next all out race motor but I will be checking it a few times a season for sure.
Brian R.
86 SVO

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Post by Slinky » Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:16 pm

http://www.amazon.com/ToolShopUSA-Engin ... 975&sr=8-2

Would this be enough to support? or no.
-Will

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Post by DPDISXR4Ti » Sun Mar 02, 2008 9:46 pm

Slinky wrote:http://www.amazon.com/ToolShopUSA-Engin ... 975&sr=8-2

Would this be enough to support? or no.
The 2.3T weighs something like 450 lbs, so should be fine.

HOWEVER, are you thinking that you can get the pan out by picking the engine up that way? You can't, unless the transmission is removed or sub-frame dropped.
Brad

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