.48 and .63 turbine w/custom elbow advise

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BuzzBomb2.3
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.48 and .63 turbine w/custom elbow advise

Post by BuzzBomb2.3 » Fri Sep 17, 2010 5:51 pm

So, the amount of spare parts I have allow me to combine either a stock .48 trim turbine or a .63 turbine spinning a T3 GN (Basically an S3) wheel. Originally, I decided I would just run the stock .48 turbine and housing when the "what if" factor came into play...

The .48 will reduce spool, but the .63 obviously has better potential for higher HP numbers. I would like to aim as high as possible with either trim if it doesn't change what I already have. The "3 turbo-to-tip is already welded in and I don't want to do any more custom work for the exhaust that doesnt fit the same as stock (IE: Cossie). I would like to retain the factory flange fitting, but am open to better flowing options if any exist short of re-fab work. Any ideas other then polishing?

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RatFink
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Post by RatFink » Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:20 pm

You should put the .48 on there and do this to your down elbow.
Image
You will never look back.
Edit <Oh damn, disregard I didn't notice the re-fab thing>
Daniel Llewellyn

"You can never turn a pig into a race horse, but with enough development you can have a pretty damn fast pig".
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I just love this guy:
hEaT wrote:Bit more work, but saved me $100 and I got to learn things, cut things, burn things and hammer things. All in all, a solid move.

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Post by hEaT » Fri Sep 17, 2010 7:47 pm

What is your goal? A quick spooling street car or a higher hp open road car?
Joe
1985 Nimbus Grey XR
2017 Ford Focus RS

BuzzBomb2.3
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Post by BuzzBomb2.3 » Fri Sep 17, 2010 8:48 pm

I planned on the .48 housing but i'm not sure which way I may run it at this point.

I've finished tearing both turbos apart and discovered a few things. The housings are indeed the same, the internals are exactly the same and both shafts are the same diameter.

The big problem I didn't foresee is that i've found the GN shaft to be longer then the XR4 shaft. The turbine blades are also MUCH shorter then the Ford T3's. I think all Ford T3 shafts may be the same length which creates a new problem. Either I have to find a similar shaft turbine, or send the GN wheel off to be machined/balanced so it can clear the minimum thread count. That would then pose problems for the GN housing if it'll even work. :(

Well, the plan seemed like a good idea at the time I considered it...

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Post by LS2XR4 » Tue Sep 21, 2010 3:04 am

BuzzBomb2.3 wrote: I've finished tearing both turbos apart and discovered a few things. The housings are indeed the same, the internals are exactly the same and both shafts are the same diameter.

The big problem I didn't foresee is that i've found the GN shaft to be longer then the XR4 shaft.

Can you use the GN turbine wheel along with GN backing plate,compressor wheel and housing on the T3 center section. It should take up the extra length
The turbine blades are also MUCH shorter then the Ford T3's
I believe they were clipped from factory
[/quote]

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Post by MerkXRTurbo » Tue Sep 21, 2010 12:28 pm

If you want the best of the best, bolt on a Cossie turbine housing and fab a down pipe for it.
3" mandrel bent exhaust, Ported/Polished head, 1.89/1.57 valves, Gutted uppper/Knife edge lower intake, T3/T4, LA3, Big VAM, Cold air intake, 40bob header, Gillis valve, Forge BOV, Mustang SVO T5, Conquest intercooler, 20psi.

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Post by mecatech » Tue Sep 21, 2010 12:42 pm

the best in rally is:

ar 48 and 63 for the turbine.

AR 48 of sierra cosworth and escort T35 turbine 0.63
sorry for my bad english written

CORRESPONDENT SOUTH/MEDITERRANEAN
MEMBER OF THE FRENCH FORD COSWORTH CLUB
SIERRA RS COSWORTH
SIERRA 4X4 COSWORTH

www.clubfordcosworth.fr

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Post by BuzzBomb2.3 » Wed Sep 22, 2010 12:24 am

LS2XR4 wrote: Can you use the GN turbine wheel along with GN backing plate,compressor wheel and housing on the T3 center section. It should take up the extra length


They looked similar, but I can give that a shot.

I haven't had a lot of research time lately. I'll have to measure the shaft length and see if there are any similar shafts with a .63 or .48 turbine that will work. The whole idea was to make a cheap performance upgrade turbo. If the price to cut the wheel is too high, i'll just scrap the idea and put the GN turbo back together then Flea-bay the sucker.
BuzzBomb2.3 wrote: Either I have to find a similar shaft turbine, or send the GN wheel off to be machined/balanced so it can clear the minimum thread count. That would then pose problems for the GN housing if it'll even work. :(
I'm trying to figure out what I was thinking when I made the second half of that statement. It wouldn't make any difference for the housing if the turbine can't fit properly on the shaft... :roll:

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Post by BuzzBomb2.3 » Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:49 pm

Its update time guys since I had a day off. The news is much better then I had previously thought.

The .48 shaft fed through the body and bolted to the compressor is (would you believe it) just ONE thread shy of totally seating on the shaft. Keep in mind that I had to use the XR4 T3 nut instead of the GN nut because it was not only twice as big but stuck out past half the threads. I used the GN body too for "mock-up" since the XR4 body is a mess. Lots of parts still need cleaning. The pictures will explain more below:

Image

Image

Image

Think I could get away with torquing to spec and using Loctite?

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Post by MerkXRTurbo » Fri Sep 24, 2010 2:04 am

Ooh, Starett... that is a nice set of Calipers!

I would just use locktite. When I built my T3/T4 it was the same way... no biggy.
3" mandrel bent exhaust, Ported/Polished head, 1.89/1.57 valves, Gutted uppper/Knife edge lower intake, T3/T4, LA3, Big VAM, Cold air intake, 40bob header, Gillis valve, Forge BOV, Mustang SVO T5, Conquest intercooler, 20psi.

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Post by murdomino » Fri Sep 24, 2010 5:06 pm

Hmmmm kind of funny, American made and it is Metric. perhaps the other side is ase standard measurements lol :wink:

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Post by BuzzBomb2.3 » Fri Sep 24, 2010 6:10 pm

murdomino wrote:Hmmmm kind of funny, American made and it is Metric. perhaps the other side is ase standard measurements lol :wink:
It runs from 1-10 with "10" = 1 in. It's a 1/1000ths in. caliper.

Yeah, I don't remember when or where I picked it up. It's just worked every time I needed it for the last......20 years?

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