Replacing differential seals.

XR4Ti / Sierra / Sierra Cosworth Discussions - Questions, problem resolution, general talk, technical tips and modifications.
User avatar
Grayson
Level 7
Level 7
Posts: 1318
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2004 2:34 am
Location: West Chester, OH
Contact:

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by Grayson » Fri Apr 18, 2014 3:58 pm

The pinion seal isn't tough to deal with. You need to remove the driveshaft and driveshaft flange, and then you can change the seal. The side adjusters are a little tougher. You'll have to remove your halfshafts, and the rear axle cover. Pop off the C-clips inside, and you can remove the stub axles. Then you can swap out the seals. Install the stub axles, install the C-clips, re-install the rear cover, and so on. Bonus is that you'll complete a fluid swap while you're at it.

You will not have to reset your backlash unless you remove the two lock plate screws from the side of your rear axle case and turn the bearing carriers/side adjusters. Since there's no reason to do that to swap seals, you shouldn't have to worry about backlash at all.

User avatar
hmarkan
Level 1
Level 1
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:05 pm
Location: Marlton, New Jersey

Replacing differential seals.

Post by hmarkan » Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:13 pm

Hi everyone,
I just replaced the clutch on the T9, carrier bearing and u-joints (430-10B, rockford). While I am under there I want to take a look at the differential, too. The differential seems to be leaking. Car has 176000 miles. I don't have any noise issues, etc. All I want to do is, replace the pinion seal and the stub shaft seals, also replace the rear oil. Can I do these without having to adjust the backlash. I can remove the differential from the car. What is the most practical way of replacing the three seals. Also, I am not sure if I have to replace the o-ring on the side adjusters.
Thank you,
Murat in NJ
1989 XR4ti 5 spd, maroon

User avatar
hmarkan
Level 1
Level 1
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:05 pm
Location: Marlton, New Jersey

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by hmarkan » Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:45 pm

Thank you Grayson for your quick reply. Since I already have the driveshaft out for clutch work and CV joints out for overhaul, all I have to do is remove the rear.
I am assuming that o-ring on the side adjuster does not normally leak. I have to check if the seals I got from UK are 43 mm, note on your web site.
Murat in NJ
1989 XR4ti 5 spd, maroon

User avatar
Grayson
Level 7
Level 7
Posts: 1318
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2004 2:34 am
Location: West Chester, OH
Contact:

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by Grayson » Fri Apr 18, 2014 10:21 pm

I forgot to address the o-ring concern. Yeah, I don't think you need to worry about it. I replace them any time I remove bearing carriers, but I think the source of pretty much any rear axle leak is through the seals.

If you remove the rear axle from the vehicle, be sure to plug the vent tube back in or you will have a leak. :twisted: My co-driver took my blue car to an event as praised the recent diff install. I got under the car to give everything the once over since that was the first drive on the new diff, and there was lots o' fluid. I forgot the vent tube. Grrrr.

User avatar
mhamilton
Level 6
Level 6
Posts: 831
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 11:04 pm
Location: Carroll (Columbus), Ohio

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by mhamilton » Thu Jul 02, 2015 7:45 pm

Is there a trick to removing the rear axles without breaking 14 torx bits?

Pre-soak and then heat?
"Head for the Hills, the Town of Lompach is Under Water!"

User avatar
Mike McCreight
Level 7
Level 7
Posts: 3979
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 8:44 pm
Location: Ottawa! Well, Manotick, actually...

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by Mike McCreight » Thu Jul 02, 2015 8:13 pm

Impact.
Lots of impact.
I hit each one from as many angles as I can with a drift, or more commonly, a sacrificial 3/8 extension. The object is to break the corrosion induced bond between the head of the bolt and the cv joint and that funny bridged washer/spacer thing. Then an impact wrench on the torx bit AFTER you get the socket really clean witha wire brush and a dental pick. I always seat the bit with a quick rap with a hammer. Saves a lot of broken bits, and the resulting removal of said broken bits.
Don't worry about trashing the bolts. Replace them with allan bolts from MC2.
As a last resort, you can take the heads off with a cut-off wheel. This only works on one end of the 1/2 shaft. For physical reasons. The 1/2 shaft won't come out if pinned in on both ends, unless you remove the diff, or pry harder than I like to.
Have fun!
It's not a hobby, it's an obsession!

User avatar
mhamilton
Level 6
Level 6
Posts: 831
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 11:04 pm
Location: Carroll (Columbus), Ohio

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by mhamilton » Fri Jul 03, 2015 7:26 pm

Not having much luck locating the differential seals.

User avatar
mhamilton
Level 6
Level 6
Posts: 831
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 11:04 pm
Location: Carroll (Columbus), Ohio

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by mhamilton » Sun Jul 05, 2015 6:10 pm

Luck I had for once. Got all of the bolts out without any problems. I think the diff is leaking so bad, it lubed the bolts.

User avatar
mhamilton
Level 6
Level 6
Posts: 831
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 11:04 pm
Location: Carroll (Columbus), Ohio

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by mhamilton » Mon Jul 06, 2015 6:41 pm

As far as I can tell, the Ford part for the rear diff grease seal # is E5RY1190A
That translated to the Timken part # 3743

Ed Lijewski
Level 8
Posts: 7129
Joined: Thu Sep 04, 2003 5:53 pm
Location: The Belly of The Beast

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by Ed Lijewski » Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:20 pm

Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!

User avatar
Grayson
Level 7
Level 7
Posts: 1318
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2004 2:34 am
Location: West Chester, OH
Contact:

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by Grayson » Thu Jul 09, 2015 3:00 pm

I'm pretty sure the 3743 is a wheel bearing seal, not a differential seal. That, and I don't stock the 3743 because of its lip structure. I carry SKF for that reason.

User avatar
mhamilton
Level 6
Level 6
Posts: 831
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 11:04 pm
Location: Carroll (Columbus), Ohio

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by mhamilton » Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:08 pm

Can you price me the proper seals?
Last edited by mhamilton on Sat Jul 11, 2015 12:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

hEaT
Level 7
Level 7
Posts: 3842
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 10:12 pm
Location: MA, USA

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by hEaT » Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:50 am

mhamilton wrote:Can you price me the proper seals?

Also, I have the rear cover off. I do not see the C clips at all.
Someone may have serviced the diff and not reinstalled them? Do the stubs pull out?
Joe
1985 Nimbus Grey XR
2017 Ford Focus RS

User avatar
mhamilton
Level 6
Level 6
Posts: 831
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 11:04 pm
Location: Carroll (Columbus), Ohio

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by mhamilton » Sat Jul 11, 2015 3:45 pm

Hello, my name is Mark and I am a Dumbass.

I went out determined I was not using my head. Got back under the car. Turned the driveshaft, C clips.

For my next trick, I will gargle peanut butter.

I have the stub frames & carriers out. The seals are in the tight. They had to be destroyed beyond recognition to get them out. The Timken seal is close but as Grayson said, they don't have that extra lip on them.

User avatar
hmarkan
Level 1
Level 1
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:05 pm
Location: Marlton, New Jersey

Re: Replacing differential seals.

Post by hmarkan » Sun Jul 12, 2015 2:12 am

I got the oil seal set for the differential from Ebay UK, the seller was One Stop Gearbox shop. Item was called "Sierra/Cosworth Rear Diff Oil Seal Set".
I also got the Type 9 gearbox gasket and oil seal set from the same seller. I will post some pics tomorrow.
Murat in NJ
1989 XR4ti 5 spd, maroon

Post Reply