Camber eccentric bolts, rear beam, and nylon STA bushings

[whitelx]

I'm looking to correct the camber and toe that my XR has in the rear and provide some amount of adjustability. I have seen the shims available from overseas, but I think some eccentric bolts at the pivots would be better as it would be more adjustment than a static shim at the carrier. My only concern the the mc2racing nylon STA bushings I have. Without any compliance, I don't know that I can use eccentric bolts for adjusting camber and toe as the pivot points would no longer be aligned and could cause binding or busing/mount damage.

[Grayson]

I wouldn't use eccentrics in combination with solid bushings. You really do want those bushing axes in line if you've got the STAs solid-mounted to the beam.

[JimG]

Before you embark upon that effort, I suggest that you replace the diff mount, the stock mount isn't great when new and a sagging mount will affect the suspension. The new MC2 mount is a nice piece

[whitelx]

Before you embark upon that effort, I suggest that you replace the diff mount, the stock mount isn't great when new and a sagging mount will affect the suspension. The new MC2 mount is a nice piece

That was done a long time ago. Also have the powerflex beam bushing. The only OEM bushings left in the car are the steering rack bushings. Everything else is either poly or nylon.

[whitelx]

I wouldn't use eccentrics in combination with solid bushings. You really do want those bushing axes in line if you've got the STAs solid-mounted to the beam.

What have you found to be optimal for camber and toe in the rear? If I'm going to have to get shims made up for the carriers or slot/weld/bend the STA mounts, I want to make sure I get the spec right the first time.

[Grayson]

I'd recommend using the washer trick (shimming the bearing carriers) and tinkering with camber/toe settings before doing anything more permanent. I set my toe straight up and set my camber "less negative" once, and the car actually handled worse than leaving things the way they were from the factory (plus the effects of lowering). I was surprised. Anyway, testing out a few settings may reveal that you may not want a change, but if you do, you'll be able to see what works with relatively little effort.

[Esteban]

What settings did your car like Chris?

[Grayson]

I haven't had the chance to tinker enough, and now everything is thrown out the window again as I will be using a new rear suspension and new rear wheels and tires. I just know that compared to "straight up" rear toe and, say -0.7° static rear camber at a lowered ride height, the car performed better with all the parts left as delivered from the factory. That's probably nearly -3° of rear camber. I know the measurements were right, but at the track the car was a handful. I yanked the shims and voila...the car was driveable again.

Of course the car doesn't put power down worth a lick with either setup.

[jkxr4ti]

McMaster Carr has a great selection of shims if you decide to go that route. I went this route and it works well. Just order a package of a few different thickness and have at it.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=15zx3h7

[mopman93]

Ford Motorsport specs 0* camber and a touch of toe in, like 0.1. The factory rear suspension adds camber through the arc of travel.

I have a beam modified with the Ireland Engineering BMW E30 positive locking blocks. Should work out nicely with the poly bushings.

My car is maybe 1.5-2" lower than stock, I have a feeling I may be purchasing some cosworth control arms with the spherical bearings if it becomes a bear to adjust.

Having said that, I have used this same camber/toe adjustment kit from IE on E30's and 2002's with poly bushings and the bind is not a big deal. The bushings are compliant enough, having them not fused to the inner sleeve helps.