Finally got the torsen installed, about a month later than what I wanted. Grayson was very helpful in defining what needed to be done. Few details/parts need to be added to MC2 procedure.
http://www.mc2racing.com/tech/20081104a/index.html
If any reason you need to take apart the torsen to remove debris, the bolts are 50-55 ft*lb with red locktite, as specified by Eaton Engineering Support. Bearings will have to be removed to get a socket on them.
Parts needed:
-1/2" Zinc Washer [local hardware store]
-0.010" Steel Shim, Round 0.010" Thick, 7/8" ID, 1-3/8" OD, 10 Pack [McCarr Masters #3088A325]
Tools needed:
-Micrometer 0"-1" [if you can't get one, you may need to get an assortment of shim thicknesses]
-Safety glasses [c-clips can get wild during removal, could have cost me an eye]
-0.090" c-clip pliers [i had to use a secondary set, modified tips on a 0.037" 10-in-1 to get the right stub shaft clip on]
-Simple flat screwdriver [helps in c-clip removal]
-Garden/Chemical Sprayer [~$9 at Lowes]
-Kerosene & Diesel [your choice of DIY part cleaning solution] = 1/4 to 1/2 gal mix
-Bench Grinder
-Dremel with carbide bit
-Rasp/file [optional]
-Bench Vice
-Once you get the case apart, and probably modified, I would recommend completely cleaning it out. A garden sprayer with DIY parts cleaner solution works beautifully, a lot quicker and cheaper than with off the shelf spray cans in my opinion. Propped mine on the edge of the bench, upside down with a 2x4, with a garbage bag hanging over the bench into a tub.
-Left stub shaft will need to be modified on a minimum 4" chuck lathe, cost me $70 at a local machine shop. Respect your machinist and make their job easier, use my schematic if you want.
*0.000_" was done with damaged caliper, 0.0000" was done with micrometers."
Stub Shaft Machinist Worksheet
-I didn't put the shim tape on till I got washer shim play down under ~0.004", as explained in a later step.
-Need the 1/2" washer, and smaller shims, to slide over the splined part of the stub shaft, after c-clip groove. Start with modifying the hardware store washer first, in case you mess up you can get another that day. This will be your template for the smaller shims. New inside diameter should roughly follow 1-1/8".
-Use a pencil to roughly trace the wider opening needed on the washer on top of the stub shaft. Use the bench vise to hold roughly half the washer at a time to open up the inside diameter. A dremel is necessary for modifying the smaller flimsy shims. Check and modify. Clean up the rough modified edges.
-The left c-clip might need to be shaved slightly, outside of clip steps, to get it on the shaft inside the diff. Clips will be loose on both shafts when installed.
-I needed a small and hardware washer for the right shaft. Two and a shaved shim for the left. Use the magnet base on the shaft and dial on the edge of the case to find out how much you need to shim after putting the modified shims and c-clip into place. If you get under your shim thickness, check with a micrometer and modify with the bench grinder to get the thickness needed. Try to get a consistent thickness all the way around. Got mine within 0.0015" tolerance. Try to get the play under 0.004" before adding shim tape. The shim tape applied will measure a new diameter of 1.24125" +/- 0.00035" x 1.0" length, based on 2 separate measurements of each shaft.
*I would suggest, don't think it's necessary, wrapping the tape counter-clockwise of vehicle/shaft forward travel. This will, in theory, allow the tape to wrap harder to the shaft while under normal forward motion of the vehicle.
-Left was 0.002", right was 0.0035" before shim tape, if i remember right. Reduced to 0.0005" on left, 0.001" on right side after applying shim tape.
