Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
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Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
One issue on the 87 is that the current owner is wiring the battery straight to the pump and not through the key. Everything else works through the key. Is this a classic nss failure or could it be something else?
Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
That's bypassing both the relay and the inertia safety switch. If it were me, I'd fix the problem instead of going around it. The ISS has been known to be an issue for some. Normally it just needs reset and people don't know to look for it.
David Reese
88 XR4Ti - mono white T5, someday to be bi wing
89 Scorpio - waiting on some parts before it hits the road again
88 XR4Ti - mono red C3, parts car
used to own 86 dark blue traded in on a min van, what was I thinking?
88 XR4Ti - mono white T5, someday to be bi wing
89 Scorpio - waiting on some parts before it hits the road again
88 XR4Ti - mono red C3, parts car
used to own 86 dark blue traded in on a min van, what was I thinking?
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
Possibilities are a bad FP relay connection or bad fuse connection, and/or inertia switch (trunk wheel well) is stuck in Off position. Any or all of these are known, common failures.
YMMV
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
So the fuel pump relay connection as is corroded or loose wire?
- LITTELHAWK
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
Usually corrosion. Relays and fuses could probably all use a wire brushing.
'85 Mineral Blue & '87 White Barn Find parked in '92
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
The female connectors can lose grip over time, and may also sink a bit lower into the relay/fuse box producing poor contact. Pull fuse and relay and inspect closely.
Current to the pumps flows to/thrpugh the inertia switch. Verify 12v to and out of the switch. If power is there, remove inertia switch, shake shake shake, reconnect and retest.
It would help you to know if the P.O. worked on the trans or not, re looking to the NSS as the cause
YMMV
Current to the pumps flows to/thrpugh the inertia switch. Verify 12v to and out of the switch. If power is there, remove inertia switch, shake shake shake, reconnect and retest.
It would help you to know if the P.O. worked on the trans or not, re looking to the NSS as the cause
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
This is a manual so the NSA is the old clutch in, car in neutral proposition, right?
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
Just shifter in neutral ("Neutral" Safety Switch).
YMMV
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
- andyofcolumbusmerkur
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
Took me a minute to figure out why I had no power to my fuel pump. Someone took the yellow relay (for fuel pump) and bent up a pin. Then soldered a wire on to that and ran it to the alternator. So even though the relay was in it needed that wire hooked up to get power. The idea was to give the fuel pump more voltage. Not sure if your fuel pump would have a shorter life span, or if your car will be faster, but maybe you could do the same thing. Or run nice new wire to the fuel pump complete with heavy duty relay under the hood.
The best way to keep your Kia from being stolen is to not have a Kia.
- merkurdriver
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Re: Fuel pump neutral safety switch?
If the starter cranks then the NSS for the trans is OK. That NSS does not care if the car even has a fuel pump in it or not.
The fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk is a black box with a white "reset" button located on top. As suggested I would check that and make sure it hasn't "popped", see if 12v is present, etc.
There are 2 fuel pumps; a low pressure in tank and high pressure externally mounted on the car (UNLESS of course someone did a Walbro in tank pump and eliminated the external pump).
When you turn the key to ACC, before attempting to crank, you should hear the fuel pump "buzz" for a second or two to prime/pressurize the system under normal circumstances.
The fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk is a black box with a white "reset" button located on top. As suggested I would check that and make sure it hasn't "popped", see if 12v is present, etc.
There are 2 fuel pumps; a low pressure in tank and high pressure externally mounted on the car (UNLESS of course someone did a Walbro in tank pump and eliminated the external pump).
When you turn the key to ACC, before attempting to crank, you should hear the fuel pump "buzz" for a second or two to prime/pressurize the system under normal circumstances.