Awesome. A new noise!
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
I'd reckon billet is what it's made from, the production ready raw material. Once it's been carefully machined and precision drilled it becomes a chunk.
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Your post. Your call.
Most prefer billet from start of machining to completion. (Although Chunk as in Chunk Todd of NBC works well...).
YMMV
Most prefer billet from start of machining to completion. (Although Chunk as in Chunk Todd of NBC works well...).
YMMV
Descartes: "Cogito Ergo Sum"
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
Lijewski: "Sum Ergo Drive-O. Mucho!
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Speaking of billets of aluminum, anyone purchased from https://www.onlinemetals.com/ or similar? Working on my 17mm driveshaft yoke spacer. My preferred machine shop has graciously agreed to turn a billet into a chunk for me.
Edit: Midwest Steel and Aluminum ( https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/ ) was a better option... Online Metals minimum size was 10"x24" but Midwest offers cuts, so I ordered three 5x5x1 plates to be cut down to a ~4.5"x3/4" round. I only need one, but I don't want to be short material in the event something goes wrong in production. For $12ea, it's cheap insurance.
I'm going to have Driveline Service extend the FMS AL DS by 21mm, then use this new spacer to take up the space the MDL adapter would if I was using a later transmission with the longer input shaft. Then if/when I decide to upgrade the trans, I just install the MDL spacer and take out my DS spacer. Easy!
Edit: Midwest Steel and Aluminum ( https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/ ) was a better option... Online Metals minimum size was 10"x24" but Midwest offers cuts, so I ordered three 5x5x1 plates to be cut down to a ~4.5"x3/4" round. I only need one, but I don't want to be short material in the event something goes wrong in production. For $12ea, it's cheap insurance.
I'm going to have Driveline Service extend the FMS AL DS by 21mm, then use this new spacer to take up the space the MDL adapter would if I was using a later transmission with the longer input shaft. Then if/when I decide to upgrade the trans, I just install the MDL spacer and take out my DS spacer. Easy!
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Well, I've backed myself into a corner.
If I replace the diff with an LSD-equipped one, I'm building it from a low-miles 3.64 diff that I already have out.
If I replace the diff with a lower ratio, I need to replace the transmission as V6 trans and 3.36 diff sounds like No Fun
If pull the transmission to change the clutch, I'm not putting the old gearbox back, I'm putting a V6 trans in
So, like I HAVE TO do the trans, diff, and LSD all at once. Like, have to.
I ordered The Tool from MC2 to help take my spare diff apart, so I guess I'm going down that road.
If I replace the diff with an LSD-equipped one, I'm building it from a low-miles 3.64 diff that I already have out.
If I replace the diff with a lower ratio, I need to replace the transmission as V6 trans and 3.36 diff sounds like No Fun
If pull the transmission to change the clutch, I'm not putting the old gearbox back, I'm putting a V6 trans in
So, like I HAVE TO do the trans, diff, and LSD all at once. Like, have to.
I ordered The Tool from MC2 to help take my spare diff apart, so I guess I'm going down that road.
Re: Awesome. A new noise!
You going to use the GM diff?thesameguy wrote: ↑Mon Jan 13, 2020 3:11 pm I ordered The Tool from MC2 to help take my spare diff apart, so I guess I'm going down that road.
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Yeah, I don't have the energy to even consider a Supra or 8.8 swap. Just not worth the cost and energy for what I'd get out of it. The Detroit diff is a great solution for a street driven car, and should do everything I want it to do handily.
Re: Awesome. A new noise!
I am curious about doing one as well, it just isn't clear to me the grinding of the case and how the install really goes.thesameguy wrote: ↑Mon Jan 13, 2020 7:59 pm Yeah, I don't have the energy to even consider a Supra or 8.8 swap. Just not worth the cost and energy for what I'd get out of it. The Detroit diff is a great solution for a street driven car, and should do everything I want it to do handily.
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
I spoke with Christopher Grayson about that, because I wasn't clear either. I was concerned that there was some specialized knowledge about where and how much that you simply had to magically know. But, the grinding occurs solely so you can physically rock the diff into the case. The case grinding occurs on the rear flange, where the cover mates, and you just take a little at a time until the diff slips in. Easy! It's apparently possible to build the diff inside an unmodified case - but nobody knows how to get it back out again. If you go to mc2racing and click on Tech there is a step by step of the installation... I'm dense and needed some more clarification.
1. Dismantle diff
2. Send side adjusters to mc2 for rehab
3. Purchase install kit (new bearings, etc.) and diff from mc2
4. mc2 sends an assembled diff back
5. Grind case
6. Install diff
As soon as I get the removal tool from 'em, I'll start on step 1.
1. Dismantle diff
2. Send side adjusters to mc2 for rehab
3. Purchase install kit (new bearings, etc.) and diff from mc2
4. mc2 sends an assembled diff back
5. Grind case
6. Install diff
As soon as I get the removal tool from 'em, I'll start on step 1.
Re: Awesome. A new noise!
I can't say that I'm any different....
Take photos!
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
I'm likely at least a month out, but I definitely will.
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Had the opportunity to get going on this again... I'm fully committed to using a later T5, so that means lengthening the driveshaft, replacing the clutch, and switching over to a manual diff with a Detroit LSD. Although a bunch of time & money, it may help down the road as it'll give me some parts to work with for my Saab-powered XR later on.
Last week I dropped the driveshaft off to be lengthened and get new u-joints and the PTI yoke installed. Today I got the spare 3.64 diff out of the back of the garage....
It was gross from being put away dirty 15 years ago, so I spent some time cleaning it up a little.
Then I drained the fluid and called it a day.
I'll get it torn down in the next couple days then ship the guts off to m2racing for LSD-ification.
Last week I dropped the driveshaft off to be lengthened and get new u-joints and the PTI yoke installed. Today I got the spare 3.64 diff out of the back of the garage....
It was gross from being put away dirty 15 years ago, so I spent some time cleaning it up a little.
Then I drained the fluid and called it a day.
I'll get it torn down in the next couple days then ship the guts off to m2racing for LSD-ification.
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Continuing on...
Pulled the rear cover off and removed the c-clips holding the axle stubs in. I couldn't get good purchase on the clips using a pick or anything, so I used a pair of screwdrivers (as advised by mc2) to push them off. That worked readily. I hosed down the bearing carriers with penetrating oil inside & out to ease removing them...
The tool mc2 supplies for $20 is well worth it IMO because it just works. In their instructions they recommend standing on the diff and using a breaker bar, but I was able to remove them easily using just a 1/2" drive ratchet.
Once the adjusters are out, the diff itself comes out easily.
Leaving a sad, empty, gooey housing...
This particular diff probably has very low mileage. It came from a car that was wrecked in the early '90s and sat in a barn for 10 years before I bought it and took it apart. The diff has been in my garage for about 15 years, no doubt collecting moisture, etc.
I think the next part is giving mc2 a bunch of money and then shipping them some pieces.
Pulled the rear cover off and removed the c-clips holding the axle stubs in. I couldn't get good purchase on the clips using a pick or anything, so I used a pair of screwdrivers (as advised by mc2) to push them off. That worked readily. I hosed down the bearing carriers with penetrating oil inside & out to ease removing them...
The tool mc2 supplies for $20 is well worth it IMO because it just works. In their instructions they recommend standing on the diff and using a breaker bar, but I was able to remove them easily using just a 1/2" drive ratchet.
Once the adjusters are out, the diff itself comes out easily.
Leaving a sad, empty, gooey housing...
This particular diff probably has very low mileage. It came from a car that was wrecked in the early '90s and sat in a barn for 10 years before I bought it and took it apart. The diff has been in my garage for about 15 years, no doubt collecting moisture, etc.
I think the next part is giving mc2 a bunch of money and then shipping them some pieces.
Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Good information! Thanks for documenting with the photos as well.
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
Looking good, and organized. I have a collection of nuts and bolts like that and they are in gallon sized zip lock bags.
The best way to keep your Kia from being stolen is to not have a Kia.
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Re: Awesome. A new noise!
It's less organized that it looks - no accounting for thread pitch or flange, etc. It's better that it could be but I still spend too much time looking for hardware. There's just too much and not enough space. I won't tell you how long it took to clear space on the bench for this operation. One wall of the garage isn't enough.