T5 Clutch fork....

[timxr8]

...
Also:

https://anemboengineering.co.uk/ford-si ... b-2wd-4wd/

Yeah, MK Motorsport sold all their Sierra/Cossie stuff to Anembo.

...But, I like the Supra diff conversion kit with the precision stub axle adapters so you can use the stock (RS) CV's. Speaking out of ignorance, though, I wonder how much stronger it really is compared to the Ford 8.8 swap...

It's as if someone thought long and hard about which diff would work well, with simple spacers that are the same on both side and the offset is perfect with the spacers to be the exact same width as the Ford Euro 7.5". That credit does belong to John V. A few places in the UK magically started manufacturing an identical kit only a couple months after one of JVAB's one was sent across the pond.

As for strength, they're comparable to the 8.8. The problem is cost: John's kit cost under $400, add the diff for around $200 max (already has good gearing and LSD), and then figuring the driveshaft for around $400-500 of modifying the stock one (I would never use the stock joints, even if replaced). The rest was bolt-in. Can even use GTO axles without mods and Cossie stub shafts (or my GpA style setup ). 8.8 kit cost a lot, mounting was difficult requiring fabrication or sending beam to get modified; axles were custom, so if you break one, get out your wallet and wait a little while for a replacement; diff assembly only came with good gears and an LSD in the 03-04 Cobra (3.55 only, 3.27 for the 99-01 Cobra), so cost a lot to get good gears and LSD installed and set up. You're spending at least twice as much for almost no gain. It's a nice setup, would never argue that.

There's my rant/.02

[thesameguy]

Yeah the costs stack up, which was the big argument against it.

If I can get the clutch issue solved, I'll finally found out if I mind the right choice with the Eaton setup.

[thesameguy]

I think I'm going to pick up either a Wilwood 260-15091 or 260-6089 to play with. They're not super pricey, and physically very similar to each other. Although I usually prefer to use production gear instead of aftermarket stuff, but Wilwood is a fixture and they have maintained the physical characteristics of their clutch masters for years and years... so I'm confident I'll be able to buy another one in the future.

This is going to be a pile of work on top of the previous pile of work. Joy.

[john keefe]

I'm kinda' interested in the Supra diff, but for a different reason. Fortunately, my rear setup came with the RS 7.5 viscous LSD (silicone packs), that was reworked by Ferguson so it grabs quicker, and is a little beefier. But, those are notoriously the weak point after any kind of HP build-up, and I'm probably not going to ever find another, so I'm extremely dainty taking it up in 1st gear. I don't know who'd I send it out to if it ever needed repair. And, it's a 3.64 ratio, so not the greatest combo with a 5.0L.

I still have the original auto 3.36 that came out of this car, only 45K miles, and it's been nagging me about converting that to an LSD as a backup, or even as a primary since that ratio would work a lot nicer with the 5.0L. But, there's a matter of finding/swapping the stock 105mm stubs to 108mm's, and then what LSD unit would work without spending a fortune. For me, finding something to ship out from the UK would likely be cost prohibitive.

[thesameguy]

The Supra diff is very likely the best option when strength is the primary motivator. But, if you're gonna keep the 7.5" setup back there, the Eaton options are ultimately pretty cheap and pretty painless to set up. I mean, assuming I did it right. $550 to MC2 for the diff and everything needed for install, and (if you know what you're doing) an afternoon in the garage is cheap for time and money. I went bananas and had my stub axles modified (vs using shim tape) costing another $300, but I'm still in it under a grand.

[john keefe]

Yep, I thought the Eaton would be the most reasonable option. I haven't done it, but I've seen Ben Martinez convert a few with minimal work.

Still leaves the matter of swapping out the inner stub axles for RS 108mm's, though, as well as budget. I suspect Mike Oyler and TimXr8 might have some sources, or pieces in stock? Tim, what's your website for parts?

All else, and me being the cheap XR guy that I am, I wonder what it would be like for kicks if I got the axle stubs, then welded up the stock rear diff (i.e., full time locker). Probably not a lot of fun in the damp, or parking lots, but point-and-shoot for dry. Then again, might have to play with the rear geometry just to make it all-around driveable.

[thesameguy]

There's no requirement to swap stub axles... the stock stubs/axles work fine. You *can*, but you don't gotta.

[john keefe]

That would be nice, but I've got the 108mm RS CV's, so won't work with the stock 105mm stub axles. IIRC, there's not enough room in that flange to redrill for the 108's, and you'd have to shave down the keeper lip (flange ridge) meant to locate the 105's.

[thesameguy]

Ah, gotcha.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I can't believe that bearing is NLA. I used to get the 4wheeldrive hardware catalog and the Quadratec catalog and you could literally build the entire CJ from the ground up. Including the frame and the body. Even if you wanted to use a buick v6 or chevy v8 engine. They had everything.
https://www.4wd.com/
https://www.quadratec.com/

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

[thesameguy]

Not the bearing - the bearing is readily available. The fork (release lever) is NLA.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

They got the fork https://www.4wd.com/b/drivetrain-differ ... /_/N-cm051

But I thought the idea was to use the existing fork with the clip removed, and a bearing with clips. There was a change in the early 80's and the CJ came with a 4 speed tremec instead of the 3 speed. Not sure how different the parts are. Maybe you could buy some locally just to measure, and return what you didn't use. Looks like Jegs and Summit have something like this but not very many good pics to look at.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Or find the fork you need someplace. Late Model Restoration seems to have everything.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-7515AF/82-93-M ... eUQAvD_BwE

[thesameguy]

I'm not sure where the disconnect is.

The problem is that four cylinder T5 forks are not available anymore. They have a specific configuration with a center pivot and a "bell crank" pull. The bearing is held to the fork with clips on the fork - the clips are what wear.

The only fork that can work in the four cylinder bell housing is the four cylinder fork. Other forks are the wrong shape, wrong size, and/or most commonly have the pivot in the wrong place. LMR does not stock four cylinder forks - what they have and what you linked to is for a V8 - you can quickly tell because the pivot is at the end and not in the middle.

The suggestion was to use a Jeep bearing on the Ford four cylinder fork because on the Jeep, the clips are on the bearing and not the fork. That would require modifying the fork to some degree, and is based on an assumption the snout on the bearing retainer is the same size between Ford and Jeep and the bearing itself is the right diameter for the clutch.

Since every local auto parts store does not have and cannot get the Jeep bearing, I'm really hesitant to even try. Rockauto only has stock from two of five vendors. That sounds to me like a part that's not going to be available at all in the future, which wouldn't surprise me given it was only used on three years of Jeeps 40 years ago. Everything I've done on the XR is to avoid getting locked into parts you can't buy anymore... I just spent a butt load of money getting away from four cylinder T5s, which are also very difficult to get anymore. The last think I want to do is put unobtanium in my transmission.