Exhaust Upgrade - Help for an XR Newbie

[Max_Alloy]

So I just acquired a 1988 XR, totally stock and in great shape (owned by a Ford master mechanic, who recently passed). As I'm planning out my ownership, I figure the only mod I want to do, to start, is upgrade to a 3 inch exhaust. (Intercooler later, maybe rear disc brakes.) I'm totally open to removing the CAT all together.

So what's my total parts list? I've looked at the Stinger Performance exhaust upgrade, which requires a new center mount header, right? But Stinger doesn't sell them anymore. Would the BoPort header work? That's pretty $$$$ though. The stock 1987 XR header is an E3, right? I've read a lot of owners use an E6. Will that work with the Stinger Exhaust system?

I'm open to other exhaust kits, of course - I['ve seen some good recommendations for Stinger, but I know there are others.

Anyway, a complete parts list required to convert a stock 1987 XR to a 3 inch exhaust would be awesome. Thanks!

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I wouldn't try to remove the two bolts for the downpipe. It will be hard to not break those. I've had better luck removing the 5 bolts that go into the turbo, leaving the turbo elbow (which houses the internal wastegate) attached to the downpipe. If it is a stock downpipe it will be about 2.25 inches ID, a factory rapido about 2.5 inches ID, and others 3 inch ID. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that's the measurements. If you're not using the old exhaust I would cut it in a couple spots to make it easy to remove. Then build it from the turbo back. Check with the vendors here, they may have some used 3 inch downpipes for sale or post up a WTB on the classifieds section. I'd put in a new O2 sensor at this time. And also check to make sure the wastegate flap closes tightly and there are no cracks around it. Good time to replace the hoses with new silicone ones and add a proper gillis boost controller.

http://www.boostvalve.com/
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
http://www.merkur.50megs.com/
http://merkurmidwest.com/

[reddy2300]

Congrats on your new acquisition!

The Stinger exhaust will work with the stock manifold. It's what I use. (And I love it.) Your 1987 should already have an E6.

By far, this will be the best mod you can do to a stock XR. The next thing on your list should be a "Gillis Valve" to set the boost to 17 or 18 psi. Totally safe with no IC and everything else stock. This will really wake your car up.

The next, somewhat serious, mod would be a Walbro 255lph fuel pump in the tank and completely delete the frame mounted one altogether.

Is this a manual transmission car?

[reddy2300]

I wouldn't try to remove the two bolts for the downpipe. It will be hard to not break those. I've had better luck removing the 5 bolts that go into the turbo, leaving the turbo elbow (which houses the internal wastegate) attached to the downpipe.

This is exactly backwards. Those two bolts for the downpipe are quite sturdy and will not break when removing the DP. On the other hand, those 5 bolts that hold the elbow to the turbo are much thinner and become "welded" into the turbo center section. And if one of the two large bolts breaks, it's far easier to drill there than the others.

[my8950]

I wouldn't try to remove the two bolts for the downpipe. It will be hard to not break those. I've had better luck removing the 5 bolts that go into the turbo, leaving the turbo elbow (which houses the internal wastegate) attached to the downpipe.

This is exactly backwards. Those two bolts for the downpipe are quite sturdy and will not break when removing the DP. On the other hand, those 5 bolts that hold the elbow to the turbo are much thinner and become "welded" into the turbo center section. And if one of the two large bolts breaks, it's far easier to drill there than the others.

^^^This^^^
The downpipe bolts should come off fairly easy, start soaking them with PB blaster now.
The 5 bolts that hold the downpipe elbow on to the turbine are almost guaranteed to break.
You should also probably not bother with the Stinger header, I can't say I've heard anything positive about them since I've been messing with these cars the past 20 some years.
The Stinger 3" downpipe will make a tremendous change in response of the turbo, if you can do 3" behind that all the way, good deal, if you make it 2.5", still good. As mentioned, you should have an E6, but its easy enough to check, and no, you don't need to change to any header, your stock manifold will do just fine for a stock car, you've got a ways to go before you really need to change the exhaust manifold.

I'd say get a manual and EVTM first if you plan on keeping the car.
I also think I just located a 1987 EVTM in my stash which is in very good condition, also have manuals available too. I'm not pushing them, just saying, they're both good to have.

[Ed Lijewski]

The down pipe has two studs, not bolts, in it. Those studs are as noted strong and seem resistant to rust and heat stress. And each of the stud nuts likewise seems not to become rust bound, nor do the stud threads get ruined on removal/retightening at least for a couple of cycles. Maybe because the nuts don't need to be torqued to a high level. Quite amazing and surprising forwrenchers who remember wrenching on car exhausts of earlier periods.

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I've been able to get those 5 bolts out pretty easy in the past. Definitely soak the studs really good if you are going to try to take those off. I have seen plenty of wastegate housings with one or both studs broken off. And housings with cracks around the wastegate flap also. That's why I said to inspect that. I would almost rather take off the entire manifold/turbo/wastegate housing/downpipe as one unit. Then if one bolt broke off it wouldn't be so hard to carefully drill it out. If you snap off one of the two studs how will you install the new downpipe you just purchased?
(edit-cracks around the turbine not the wastegate housing)

[my8950]

I've been able to get those 5 bolts out pretty easy in the past. Definitely soak the studs really good if you are going to try to take those off. I have seen plenty of wastegate housings with one or both studs broken off. And housings with cracks around the wastegate flap also. That's why I said to inspect that. I would almost rather take off the entire manifold/turbo/wastegate housing/downpipe as one unit. Then if one bolt broke off it wouldn't be so hard to carefully drill it out. If you snap off one of the two studs how will you install the new downpipe you just purchased?

Understandable, although, at least in my experience, I've seen 0 broken downpipe studs and probably 50 broken turbo outlet elbow broken bolts. If he just wants to change the exhaust from stock to a 3", I don't think it is necessary to remove the whole manifold/turbo assembly, but that is just my opinion. As Ed says, YMMV...

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

For true 3 inch from turbo to tailpipe check these out. These are kinda cheap but there's better ones out there. Some 2.5 inch and some 3 inch. And the V-Band would make things easy for disassembly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Internal-Waste ... SwqZFeTvfe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-T3-5-Bolt- ... SwS51eiqV9
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Tube-Weld-Ad ... SwK2Je5tIy

[my8950]

For true 3 inch from turbo to tailpipe check these out. These are kinda cheap but there's better ones out there. Some 2.5 inch and some 3 inch. And the V-Band would make things easy for disassembly.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Internal-Waste ... SwqZFeTvfe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-T3-5-Bolt- ... SwS51eiqV9
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Tube-Weld-Ad ... SwK2Je5tIy

Agreed!!! ATP makes a nice one. If the OP wants to go balls out on exhaust upgrades, this is a good one. I don't think the normal 3" downpipe available from vendors will fit here though, expect some fabrication work.



http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... y_Code=WGT

[thesameguy]

If the car is running now, just start soaking the downpipe bolts in penetrating oil.... a few oil/drive cycles will loosen 'em up and they will come out quite readily.

But if you're going to do a 3" downpipe, you might as well get to work on the 5-bolt flange as well because you will want to replace that. Oil & drive and eventually they will come loose easily as well.

That said, I wouldn't get too hung on the downpipe. It's *great* mod, but you can do pretty well with just a cat back.

[Max_Alloy]

Thanks so much for all the advice.

Yes, it's a manual XR.

That's great to hear that the Stinger will bolt on to the stock E6. I'm confirming that this is true for the 3" stinger exhaust?

Good advice on soaking in penetrating oil for a bit...heck that's good advice for ANY old bolt on a car.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Check out the different downpipes for sale at Merkur Depot. Mike will shoot you in the right direction when it comes to parts.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

That's great to hear that the Stinger will bolt on to the stock E6. I'm confirming that this is true for the 3" stinger exhaust?

I think most (all?) of Stinger's exhaust stuff for the XR is designed for a stock E3/E6 manifold. I'll shoot you a PM with a possible solution.

[thesameguy]

Agreed.... if you're going whole hog, I think the merkurdepot options are the superior ones.