So, that XR4Ti on BaT.

[thesameguy]

Discuss.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1986-merkur-xr4ti-4/

[R Code]

That's a lot of cheddar.

[john keefe]

Hmm... Sameguy, you're stirring the pot, then sitting back and waiting for all the ensuing excitement, right? I for one hope the buyer really enjoys driving it!!! Nicely done car.

[thesameguy]

I love an XR4Ti selling for fair money. I know it's "a lot" for an XR4Ti, but 1980s RWD turbocharged manual transmission is a rare combo. I think they are undervalued for what they represent, and one in such nice shape deserves a good sale.

That said, I don't know how I feel about XR4Ti "rally tribute car" with $3,000 worth of plaques on it. Well, I do know how I feel. Not great.

So I'm very happy to see the result, but gah, I would not wanna own that car!

[eaton53]

I'm still waiting for a REALLY good survivor XR to come up for sale.
It's been quite a few years... could go for surprising money.

One of these days, one will show up on Cars & Bids and reset the market.

[Ed Lijewski]

Lotsa good comments.

This by Wyatt here sums it up nicely:

"Well, the Merkur community will be reeling from this for a while. There’s a lot good about this car, including the Cosworth bodywork, nice paint, and rally badge collection, and a few choice mods, but even then, underneath, it’s still a mostly stock XR, and mostly stock XRs just don’t usually get this kinda coin. Hopefully, this is an indicator of a greater sense of appreciation (monetarily and otherwise) for these cars. Unfortunately, as is typical when something like this sells for way above typical market price, I now expect we’ll start seeing half rusted, barely restorable XRs with asking prices of $10k."

And this one is great!

"soboy makes a good point in that Ford sold this car through it’s AARP division and the car never had a chance."

YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I love an XR4Ti selling for fair money. I know it's "a lot" for an XR4Ti, but 1980s RWD turbocharged manual transmission is a rare combo. I think they are undervalued for what they represent, and one in such nice shape deserves a good sale.

That said, I don't know how I feel about XR4Ti "rally tribute car" with $3,000 worth of plaques on it. Well, I do know how I feel. Not great.

So I'm very happy to see the result, but gah, I would not wanna own that car!

I would have liked to see the lower cladding replaced with parts from a mono car. If the paint is already coming off it will continue to be an issue. Also bigger front brakes, Cosworth hood vents, Genuine Garrett turbo, Cosworth hood vents, glass headlights, nasa/scca approved cage etc. I agree it's cool to see it going for good money, and I would drive it around, but would rather have Eaton's car, or that ultra low mileage silver one Mike was selling a few years back. But the new owner just wanted something finished he/she could take to cars and coffee or whatever.

[eaton53]

I would drive it around, but would rather have Eaton's car

Hey, it's on sale today for a low, low price of $20K!
It's more finished than the BaT car... at least it will be after I get the fueling and A/C issues fixed on the 27th.
I think the $8200 I paid for it in 2015 may still be a world record price for an automatic XR.

[john keefe]

Not to nitpick a pretty well done car, nor hi-jack the thread, but since NASA/SCCA cages was mentioned, what's up with so many "styles" of cages like this which terminate the rearward strut bars on the wheel wells? Granted, it's two layers of sheetmetal for noise and corrosion, and it is a formed structure, but its still one of the weaker chassis areas of any vehicle. If you're going that far, what's so much more difficult about reinforcing the rear shock towers and tying into those? It's the unsupported towers and the whole hatch envelope which allows the rear to flex/twist like a bellows under load (and why even a crude shock-tower cross-bar helps is effective). Just going a little extra does so much more to improve rigidity and handling consistency, not to mention durability. OK, that's my b&tching limit for the week. I saved up for that one.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Not to nitpick a pretty well done car, nor hi-jack the thread, but since NASA/SCCA cages was mentioned, what's up with so many "styles" of cages like this which terminate the rearward strut bars on the wheel wells? Granted, it's two layers of sheetmetal for noise and corrosion, and it is a formed structure, but its still one of the weaker chassis areas of any vehicle. If you're going that far, what's so much more difficult about reinforcing the rear shock towers and tying into those? It's the unsupported towers and the whole hatch envelope which allows the rear to flex/twist like a bellows under load (and why even a crude shock-tower cross-bar helps is effective). Just going a little extra does so much more to improve rigidity and handling consistency, not to mention durability. OK, that's my b&tching limit for the week. I saved up for that one.

Agreed. I mainly have a problem with people having the sense they are now safer, even though they may not be. I mean it is a tribute car and not really designed to actually rally race, but the new owner will most likely drive it on the street. Also this thread seems like it was intended to be hi-jacked in the first place. So don't feel bad.

[eaton53]

Also this thread seems like it was intended to be hi-jacked in the first place. So don't feel bad.

It just said "Discuss", so you did!!

[thesameguy]

I can't help but wonder if the cage isn't intentional. There are several "kits" for Sierra roll cages out there that have sanctioning body approval, it seems crazy that someone would go off-road here and invent something substandard. But I have no knowledge one way or another.

[john keefe]

Yeah, I'm not sure why. I've seen a few arrangements like that for different NASA/SCCA classes, but I presume it's because there's nowhere else to brace the roll hoop to... All the pics I've saved of "serious" (FIA, BTCC, Eggenberger, Rouse, Dick Johnson/Australian Series, etc., etc.) of RS/RS500 track and rally, Trans AM, etc., all tied into the shock towers, some with a lot of cross-bracing/triangulation onto the center-line of the chassis behind the rear seat buttressing. I don't know if those were somehow tied into the STA "hoop" under the chassis for added rigidity, but it seems practical, though it would make swapping the entire rear "subframe" out as one unit problematic. IIRC, if there were supports terminating onto the wheel wells, they were secondary to the major members going into the shock-tower structure.

[thesameguy]

Maybe it's just that... that there's an "easy and acceptable" approach and a "difficult and superior" approach. I could see different decisions being made based on the intended application of the car... if you're going wheel to wheel (or wheel to rock) in BTCC or WRC maybe your goals are more complicated than someone who just doesn't want to buckle when tagging the armco or something. My only experience is building a Lemons race car, where I got advice from a Swedish dude who ice races.... he told me what would stand up to tech and do the job, and what he would do when building his cars. We did the former, and despite some pretty hard hits the car stayed together... it *seems* there are valid shades of grey here.

[john keefe]

Ha! Which leads to the difficult decision... you put all that time and effort into building a really nice street/potential-track car, then you're scared to waste all that by spinning out or rolling over in a basic HPD track day. You don't want to make a full-on commitment to being a track car, but you might as well have the minimum protection, and you lean towards the minimum "easy-and-acceptable" cage option. But, then ask yourself, how much do I like myself and after multiple knee, ankle and shoulder surgeries, do you not want to go through anymore orthopeodic rehabs? So, looks like a correct, answer is the "difficult and superior" cage.

But if you're going that far, you're essentially committing it to being a track car and far less a street ride... You better make sure you track it if you're putting that much more into it. And, now you're thinking about 3 sets of spare track tires, wheels, a cool trailer, rebuilds, tools and beer chests, and... OTOH, you kinda' don't want to lose the simple street fun of the car, and it's original appeal, etc.. So, now you're back to square one, can't make a decision, and you're wondering if you shouldn't just garage it, and curl up with beers and just watch TV.