Fuel pump, or pumps, or....

[Ed Lijewski]

I've installed an 8UA w/ACT+no IC.

Haven't had your issues (have had/still have an idle issue...which shouldn't be caused by that swap).

I'd check out the VAM (maybe sluggish vane door...).

YMMV

[milehighXR]

Checked vam door, snaps closed, opens freely. No visible obstructions in intake tract.

[milehighXR]

Changed out rotor to see if it would help brick wall at 3k under boost. No difference.

Interesting note, continuous codes now 27 vss out of range, reset codes and retest.

Vss is NOT connected at this time. Yet I am only intermittently getting this code. I havent had it at all since I started driving car again 2 weeks ago, not that I recall at least....

[milehighXR]

Woohoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Passed smog today. Co was kinda high, 16.xxx of 20.000 allowed. Worry about that laterer.

Have new TFI on dizzy(not keen on using spade connector, or maybe they're called slide on connectors, to connect PIP to remote TFI. I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and buy the kit from Fat Foxx.

Also had new TPS, and swapped to an old known good IAC. I think I may have finally nailed my intermittent high idle. I think, I'll verify this next weekend maybe, that the TPS bolts aren't tight enough, and it's sliding around. If it's not that I have a bizarre issue going on.

Before I went to test today I made sure that:

TFI was seated, and greased
Reset ignition timing
Started car and checked to see if idle would stay high if I raised throttle a little, and it did.
Thought TFI not issue, so changed TPS, reset to .95volts throttle closed
Started car again and still had high idle
Swapped IAC, then checked base idle speed, had to reset(probably should checked it again after TPS change)
checked TPS voltage again, then rechecked base idle speed
No more high idle when raise throttle

Went to smog and passed, on the way out, the intermittent high idle returned :huh:



Thinking its TPS bolts, aren't quite tight enough to keep it set right. This is a brand new Walker branded TPS.


Another note, I now have continuous code 18-IDM circuit. So I get to look at that now. Though I may just swap to one of the other TFIs, and see if code 14 comes back or if 18 remains.


At least I have a passing smog test, so now I can get quotes on paint, and get the wheel alignment done after I replace the steering rack boots.

The project continues

[MarkM]

You've been fighting this for a long time, glad to hear you finally wore it down. Congrats on the smog tag.

[Ed Lijewski]

Re "intermittent high idle", I'd replace with new ones all gaskets from turbo to upper intake (and check lower intake bolts for tightness).

YMMV

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

I wonder if some of the issues you have are from the computer not having fully set it itself to your normal driving patterns after being dead for some time? My car is left dead for long periods of time and it acts a bit flakey when first fired up again out of storage. It will become 'normal' after about fifty miles of back road running and act good throughout the engine range.

An intermittent vacuum leak would also cause what you describe. I had that with a 24 valve Taurus and after popping the intake manifold, swapping upper and lower intake gasket sets (that looked good, not as if leaking) I found an attached rubber hose from the PCV valve to the intake manifold had a small tear in it and it had been the problem all along. Fifty cent fix. It acted different when hot or cold. Spray around all the intake system with a can of starter fluid ether and see if you have a vaccum leak. It will rev up if it gets a whiff with an intake leak. This is much simpler than opening everything up and finding good gaskets that now need replacing.

A similar problem happened with an SVT Focus that had a cracked (not fully broken into two pieces) plastic tube from the intake manifold to the fuel rail actuator to prevent fuel flow if the engine was not running. When cold the car ran fine. When hot it began to have a small intake leak and if given full throttle the leak would cause the fuel rail valve to close. No fuel, not running, all looked good though. Sit for a bit, it would run again at small throttle settings when it had cooled down. When discovered, a 2 inch piece of vacuum tubing connecting the fuel tube to the valve fixed the problem. This car had been intermittent with that baffling problem since last winter. The fifty cent piece of tubing was the last thing done after changing all the related engine sensors and the fuel valve on the motor with no effect. The vacuum line snapped in half when pulled off the valve to replace it, revealing the problem. I have good backup spare parts for the car now...

You are welcome to take the car and leave it for me at a friends place in Lyons if you are sick of it. LOL I'll pick it up later. haha

Cheers

[milehighXR]

You are welcome to take the car and leave it for me at a friends place in Lyons if you are sick of it. LOL I'll pick it up later. haha

Cheers

You in calirado? Even then I keepnher. She's been with me longer than the wife LOL

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

No, I am Tulsa area. I have an old college friend who lives in Lyons and he would gladly let it sit out front for a while until retrieved. LOL

Cheers