The Merkur Club of America Forums

Wilky,
First you must check that the adjustable TCAs come fitted with threaded ball joints instead of pinch bolt ball joints. I did a little research on this since I am convering my XR4Ti to use a Sierra Sapphire Cosworth front suspension, and from what can tell all Sierra Cosworths came set up for pinch bolts. I believe you would have to get adjustable TCAs that are made for the Sierra XR4i if your front knuckles are still stock Merkur.

Well if the adjustable ball was set were the stock bushing was and giving room to move in and out. Then you would have a perfect set up. Now being that the mounting points for the stock bushing require you to pinch the sleeve. You will need a spacer on each side of the adjustable ball to keep the control arm in the stock location. You do this by subtracting the ball from the stock sleeve. Then divide that by 2. Then you will have your spacer size. i hope this clears things up.

Thanks Gents - I have a pair sitting in my Dad's garage waiting for my next trip to 'ol blighty. I'll let you know how it works out.

Wilky

Okay, I have to amend my last post. I just saw a post from Van Landingham on another forum that contradicts what I just posted here. I trust John to know what he is talking about more than I do myself.

Here is a cut 'n paste:
"Tim there are all sorts of crazy myths about the control arms but in the
end there are really two sorts: taper pin ball joint for Xratties and 3
door Cossie, and straight shank ball joint shank which gets pinched for
Sapphire Cossie and ALL 4x4s.

Within the taper shank [ TCAs] there are bushings with the sleeve for 10mm [inner] pivot
bolts and for 12mm [inner] pivot bolts.
USA Xratties have the 10mm bolts, Cossies and I am fairly certain Scorps
use the 12mm bolt.

I could look it up on the Ford parts CD but just having the inner bush
different means a differnt PN."

So if I am reading this right, the 3-door Sierra Cosworths used nuts like the Merkur. The only question still remaining is the size of the shank. Although I never noticed it, Brad says the shank is wider on the Scorpio TCA ball joint. (is that quote right, Brad?) This means that you will still have to double check the size of the ball joint on the adjustable TCAs to see if they will match up with your XR4Ti knuckles, Wilky.

Very wierd. How come when I type Mr. Anesi's first name in a post it comes up as "Colin" in the final post? Is this some type of prank?

AnHonestCitizen wrote:Very wierd. How come when I type Mr. Anesi's first name in a post it comes up as "Colin" in the final post? Is this some type of prank?

Yes, just having some evil fun with the word censor. I'll fix it later - wouldn't want Colin taking credit for my brilliant posts!

Back on topic, yes, the shank for the Scorpio ball-joint is larger than the XR. Also, the overall size for the anti-sway bar bushing is SMALLER, although the inner fitting size (where the bar passes through) is the same. Thus, the Scorpio TCA is different in several ways.

As I mentioned previously, the Scorpio has longer inner tie-rod arms; in fact, that is the only difference between a XR rack assembly and a Scorpio one. This fact would confirm the longer Scorpio TCA's, although I think I pretty much got that covered as fact in my pic above.

Then perhaps I had a Cossie arm, from what your friend there said, HC.

Anyway, I just got it all back together using the new bushings but the old control arm until another can be sent me.

That is, with the exception of the sway-bar-to-body bushing, which needs the new-style clamp to be able to fit... well, I'll get everytjing I need and do it all again, but ain't that the way it goes? One thing that helped me a lot was using what's known in nautical circles as a Spanish Windlass: a rope tied to each end of the sway bar, with a pry bar put through and twisted, which cinches up the sway bar to allow for easier fitment of the inner control arm bolts (use a spare piece of line to tie the end of the pry bar to the rope, and be damned careful!). A tie-down strap or equivalent would have been better and safer, but I had what I had and I used it, 'ya know? When I had the holes close to being lined up, I stuck a Phillips screwdriver in through the front to put it into the exact position while threading in the bolt from behind.

I use a ratshitting tie-down this way: with the front wheel on the spindle (need only one/two nuts to keep it in place) connect the tie-down to the rear and front wheels and ratshit it taut/tauter until the LCA is aligned. Works with basket weaves and spatulas; not sure about all other style wheels.

YMMV

Yeah, I wanna buy a ratshitter for the redo-- good thing to have around anyway.