Quick coolant question....

Togglehead · Post by **Togglehead** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:21 am

...saw some posts about coolant...but none that answered whether or not i should be using phosphate free coolant.

Basically...should i be? And...its the orange stuff right?

Maurice S · Post by **Maurice S** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:26 am

Whatever doesnt freeze...I throw greenstuff in it...with distilled water if possible...I believe it prolongs the life of the rad and stuff.

Post by **Ed Lijewski** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:33 am

Stay with what Ford recommends in the Owner's Manual--you won't go wrong. Typically, principally Japanese engines (cars and motorcycles) required phosphate free formulations for waterpump longevity.

YMMV

Togglehead · Post by **Togglehead** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:01 pm

actually its for RAD longevity in my germans....leaves deposits in the nastiest of places.

Just checkin....thanks boys.

Post by **Ed Lijewski** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:07 pm

That crud probably isn't phosphate driven.

But Hooray for you for wanting to keep the radiator and the rest of the cooling system deposit minimus.

Truly, the preferred way to accomplish that is to have the cooling system--the whole kit and caboodle, flushed using a flushing machine and professional additive designed for that. Good shops have those machines, and the flushing costs ~ $100-$125, depending... As the cleaner is stronger than what we can buy off the shelf, and as the process also includes chemicals to rebalance the pH as well as new coolant, all in all it's a far better service than what we can do under our oak trees.

YMMV

Togglehead · Post by **Togglehead** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:42 pm

yeah i did a mineral flush on my 86 944....

....the lesson i learned was...pay someone to do it.

Maurice S · Post by **Maurice S** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:54 pm

Ed Lijewski wrote:That crud probably isn't phosphate driven.

But Hooray for you for wanting to keep the radiator and the rest of the cooling system deposit minimus.

Truly, the preferred way to accomplish that is to have the cooling system--the whole kit and caboodle, flushed using a flushing machine and professional additive designed for that. Good shops have those machines, and the flushing costs ~ $100-$125, depending... As the cleaner is stronger than what we can buy off the shelf, and as the process also includes chemicals to rebalance the pH as well as new coolant, all in all it's a far better service than what we can do under our oak trees.

YMMV

Hey will that do the heater core too. Might just go that route.

Post by **Ed Lijewski** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:29 pm

Absolutely; the ENTIRE cooling system is flushed by that process.

YMMV

boostfiend · Post by **boostfiend** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 3:05 pm

I got my tip from "Red Dawn" and use urine. I mean, come on! They beat the Russians!

Post by **Ed Lijewski** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 4:00 pm

Har Har!

Seriously, remember the post w/pics on this Forum a few months ago by a guy who had coolant leaks and who found humungous corrosion, e.g., a freeze plug nearly corroded through?

That's what regular, professional flushing would stop in its tracks.

YMMV

BeefFajitas · Post by **BeefFajitas** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 4:32 pm

Just changing the coolant will stop corrosion. The coolant starts to break down and electrolysis (i.e. the engine becomes a battery) starts to happen between the dissimiliar metals.

Post by **Ed Lijewski** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 5:04 pm

BeefFajitas wrote:Just changing the coolant will stop corrosion. The coolant starts to break down and electrolysis (i.e. the engine becomes a battery) starts to happen between the dissimiliar metals.

If you really really love your 2.3T or any engine, you'll choose the coolant flush service. If you just love it, drain what you can and refill with fresh.

YMMV