Uhm....should the turbine housing be red hot?

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Uhm....should the turbine housing be red hot?

Post by Togglehead » Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:52 pm

Yeah....that.

I opened my hood tonight right after i shut her down and....lo and behold, its glowing....with my exhaust manifold too. Why does this seem not normal?
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Post by Merkur » Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:09 am

Perfectly normal. Don't worry. Get into the habit of letting the engine idle for five minutes after a long run. At least until the auxiliary fan has had the chance to cycle on and off once.

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Post by Reno3133 » Fri Apr 27, 2007 8:58 am

It's pretty normal if you've done some harsh driving, or long driving. Though if your timing is off, the turbo and manifold can glow way quicker (more or less 5 minutes of just idling) than when the timing is correct.


based on my personal experience.

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Post by Maurice S » Fri Apr 27, 2007 9:01 am

I remember setting my boost one night with the gillis and after having gone at it with an M3 BMW on the highway raising my hood and saying GEEZUS!! It reminded me of the Science Channel's "The Surface of Our Sun".
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti » Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:32 am

Reno3133 wrote:Though if your timing is off, the turbo and manifold can glow way quicker (more or less 5 minutes of just idling) than when the timing is correct.
Indeed timing can definitely be a factor here. If your timing is too far retarded, some of the combustion is actually occurring in the exhaust manifold and into the turbine housing. In fact, rally cars often do this purposely to keep the turbo spooled, shortening turbo life in the process. If you're seeing the hot side glow under non-boosted conditions, I'd try advancing the timing a couple degrees.
Brad

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Post by Togglehead » Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:38 am

Good to know...although im sure this vehicle could use a good timing adjustment anyway. It still stumbles under full boost. With or with out the KS. (no pinging though)

Also...something that helps is that turbo cool down pump from the MBZ that the PO put in.....that thing is great. When i was under the hood watching it glow, the pump came on and started pushing coolant around again....i could pretty much watch the glow fade....
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Post by Maurice S » Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:06 pm

I think you might just need new plugs (NGK TR5) cap, rotor and wires all Motorcraft (rotor is either press on or screw on), all caps are the same, wires WR4011C's... See if it clears up. All should be avail at local auto zoo.
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Post by John Brennan » Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:08 pm

By all means, check the timing before doing or assuming anything!
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Post by Togglehead » Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:39 pm

i dont know how....=\
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Post by Maurice S » Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:47 pm

From the TFI Follow the leads to the spout, disconnect it or pull pill depending on which one you have, hook up a timing light with the sensor on # 1 lplug wire loosen distributor bolt and set to 13*BTDC...this is to be done with the car warm.
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Post by jacobrussell » Sat Apr 28, 2007 12:36 am

Maurice S wrote:From the TFI Follow the leads to the spout, disconnect it or pull pill depending on which one you have, hook up a timing light with the sensor on # 1 lplug wire loosen distributor bolt and set to 13*BTDC...this is to be done with the car warm.

or 10 degrees on a auto ;)
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Post by Maurice S » Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:54 am

I vehemently refuse to acknowledge the existence of SLUSH-Boxes...lest their ilk spread like the plague...

kidding just KIDDING!!...
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Post by Togglehead » Sat Apr 28, 2007 1:18 pm

what the hell is an auto?

:wink:
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Post by jacobrussell » Sat Apr 28, 2007 2:24 pm

Maurice S wrote:I vehemently refuse to acknowledge the existence of SLUSH-Boxes...lest their ilk spread like the plague...

kidding just KIDDING!!...
i kinda might have a 3 spee in my merk


i move to reno in liike 5 days last trip down there i went to the yard to hunt a tranny out :) already got a pedal set and interior peices cant wait to be shifting
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