88 XR Build Thread - Rose

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Re: 88 XR Build Thread - Rose

Post by cmouta » Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:48 am

Upgraded my fuel pump to a walbro and thought I'd post a few things I found helpful. I drove my car down to the point that the gas light came on(tricky if you don't have your anti slosh circuit) and that was lightweight enough for me to handle the tank myself. After screwing around quite a bit to both lower and raise the fuel tank, I think the most flexibility came from using some lashing straps hooked into the rear tow hook spot and across to the frame opening where the oem tank strap bolts in. This allows you some wiggle room to work the fill pipe in/out without worrying about it falling off a stationary object like a jackstand or a floor jack with a long board duct taped to the saddle. once the pipe is free you can then use the floorjack/board/duct tape combo to support and lower the tank. I the used the lashing straps to tighten the tank to the board for stability.

When I finally saw the pump cover/locking I thought there was absolutely no way it was coming out. It looked rusted solid. soaked it with quite a bit of pb blaster and ended up using a small screw driver and hammer to scrape away between the locking tabs and the ring. I also used an O-ring pick to pry up any rocks and shmutz. finally, I used my cheapo air compressor to blow everything off clean and dry and was able to tap it open using a large bolt as a punch and a small deadblow hammer.


pump assembled on new bracket, sans sock filter. The sock filter does not go on easy in my experience so If you want to get it right, I'd scribe a mark on the pump assembly cover before initial removal, pointing to the rear of the tank, maybe also on the tank so you'll have a perfect alignment on reinstallation:

I had the perfect size grommet for two wires from a harbor freight kit but and my largest drill bit was 1/4" which was enough for the smallest grommet in the kit so I ended up drilling two holes. I used Seal All for both the ID and OD of the grommet and alternating QD connectors for the power wiring. I followed mc2's instructions on rerouting/extending the oem external tank's wiring and cut the internal pump oem +12V wire in the hatch area as I thought that'd be cleaner if I ever need to reconnect, which I absolutely will not.

reinstalled the tank, key'd on and off a few times to prime the lines, car fired right up. :cheers
2013 Nero Fiat 500C Abarth
1988 Mono Rosso Red Merkur XR4Ti
1982 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk
2006 Bajaj Chetak 4T w/ sidecar

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