My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

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hEaT
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

Thanks and sure, go for it! If you're running trim and carpet in the hatch, you may find a better location for it. This works for me since behind the rear seats, only the side trim panels are going back in.

For fuse and wire, look into this stuff:

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaste ... ks%20Kable

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetai ... odID=FH-20

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaste ... ccessories

My short ground run is 0 gauge, the power wire to the front is 4ga. If staying with the stock starter, you'll probably need to run a separate wire to the front and a solenoid at the battery for the starter. If running a mini-starter (the route I'm going to go) a 200A fuse should be okay.

http://www.mc2racing.com/products/xr4ti ... index.html
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In XS 7
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by In XS 7 »

Thank you Joe,very nice of you, and thanks for all the info.
Your thread is very informative, full of great ideas and solutions, as well as helpful mods.
I am learning A LOT :thumb .
Miguel.
89 XR4Ti Monique; Waking up a real "Night/Mare-Coor".
T5, NPR IC, PIMP ECU, Walbro 255, Dual piston BOV, Manual BC, 3" exhaust, One piece Aluminum drive-shaft, mc2 LSD, Boport 1.5 cam, Ported and polish head, big valves, 80# injectors, Bob's log, (soon HY35).
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

In XS 7 wrote:Thank you Joe,very nice of you, and thanks for all the info.
Your thread is very informative, full of great ideas and solutions, as well as helpful mods.
I am learning A LOT :thumb .
:cheers

That's how I learned too. Just reading threads, getting ideas, and putting my twist on it.
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Ray
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by Ray »

Hey joe - i like white LX's idea - run dual solenoids, bleed switch off the ignition starter switch to solenoid near battery. Wire's only hot on KOIOSO - makes sense. Still, i'm a major fan of fusing everything, but that's a much cheaper option than going with a mini starter.
-Ray
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

Ray wrote:Hey joe - i like white LX's idea - run dual solenoids, bleed switch off the ignition starter switch to solenoid near battery. Wire's only hot on KOIOSO - makes sense. Still, i'm a major fan of fusing everything, but that's a much cheaper option than going with a mini starter.
Does make sense, but is much more wiring and does leave a wire unprotected during cranking.

mc2 mini-starter delivered today and got some extra wire and terminals to reinforce my engine/chassis grounds.
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

Lots of pics for very little work this weekend. I'm getting more comfortable wiring, it's fun.

New starter, ended up wiring it differently than seen here:

Image

Yes...it's smaller and less amp draw which was the main goal:

Image

Old starter cable was fine, but I had some 4ga so...why not? Also a ring terminal works better than the odd square on the old cable:

Image

In and wired up. Constant 12v goes from the constant hot side of the old starter solenoid (my new distribution block) to the constant hot side of the solenoid. Switched side of the older starter solenoid goes to the mini starter solenoid switch. When I run out of things to do, I'll put a dedicated distribution block on the fender and use the old solenoid trigger for the mini starter, eliminating the old solenoid completely. For now, this works fine.

Image

Image

Had to shim the starter away, washers are temporary for now:

Image

New ground point and distribution:

Image

Got an actual hold down for the battery:

Image
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by catapultkid »

Looks good! I'm happy with it so far and weighs much less.
-Paul
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

catapultkid wrote:Looks good! I'm happy with it so far and weighs much less.
Thanks! Did you have to play with any shims on yours or bolt it up and go?
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by John Brennan »

Curious as to why you had to shim out the starter. Is this the normal procedure with these?
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

John Brennan wrote:Curious as to why you had to shim out the starter. Is this the normal procedure with these?
Normal is what I want to find out. After I installed it bolted as normal the starter would grind for a second after I released the key. It could have also been due to the wiring which I can easily change and test (had it wired as factory and the solenoid switch on the same node). I did some reading over on Corral.net and it seems it's common to shim them out for the same issue.
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by catapultkid »

hEaT wrote:
catapultkid wrote:Looks good! I'm happy with it so far and weighs much less.
Thanks! Did you have to play with any shims on yours or bolt it up and go?
I just bolted it up and went. Doesn't stick at all, only thing I dont like (and may be due to the program timing or bad tfi) is that it seems to jump timing when cranking and be a little harse on the starter. I'm a bit worried about it.
-Paul
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
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Esteban
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by Esteban »

I didnt have to shim mine either. You may want to double check the wiring. You should still use the stock solenoid in conjunction with the new relay on the starter.
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

It currently is wired up with the stock solenoid switching the solenoid on the starter. I'll double check this weekend if it still does it without a shim.

Do both of you guys have T5s or T9s? The block plates are different between the two which also may be why.
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by catapultkid »

I've got a T-5.
-Paul
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
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Re: My Build Thread: Project "Rain Cloud"

Post by hEaT »

Confirmed with the proper wiring (constant 12v to the starter motor, switched power to the solenoid) no spacing is needed. If switched power is sent to the starter then a spacer is needed.


Also, got this in. This is a bit beyond my skill level so my only involvement here was in the design. Had good friend of mine laser this out for me and weld it. I like doing my own work, but I couldn't say no when this is the finished result.

Image

No pictures in car, but goes where the battery was and is held down with the old battery tie-down bolt. Three front bungs will be plugged for now, but will allow relocation of the ECT, gauge sender, and an aftermarket temp gauge sender if needed.
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