Ok, so updates going back to mid-July. Been a fun few months working on the car
Most is in order, but some tried to order the work rather than the timing. A lot of these projects were happening concurrently.
Started off with the rear brakes. I've had a rear disc conversion sitting in a box for many years now. Dug this out, traced the part numbers, and found it was all Turbo Couple/94 Cobra parts. Easy enough to find, but just takes some time. I used the parts I had to mock everything up and a proof of concept, and then replaced with brand new parts. I had a set of calipers with it that were in okay shape, but everything was blue. EVERYTHING. Other set were cores I pulled off a Sable wagon at Harry's U-Pull-It. Those were turned into to Advance for a fresh set.
Time get to pulling the old rear parts. Up for grabs BTW. Worked great when on the car.
Bunch o parts:
Pretty simple bolt-on job with the adapters and Mike's lines.
Along with the rear discs, the smaller master and booster setup had to go. I picked up a matched set from Ted, a local XR owner a few years ago (now swapping in a 2.0 N/A Duratec into his blue car). Learned my lesson when I blew apart my original master when bleeding the brakes from all the sludge at the end of the bore. This one was pulled apart, cleaned with a fine 3M polishing pad, and put back together. Really simple. Unit was bench bled and then tossed into the car. Lucky me had to remove the intake manifold to R&R the booster. Added time and added trip to get a new gasket.
Gutted the prop valve at the same time and bled the system. Fast forward a few weeks and the valve started leaking. Looks like I was a bit over zealous and gutted "too much" of the valve. The piston has to stay and ONLY remove the ball. The piston seals a small weep hole at the bottom which somehow survived bleeding the system. Oh well, replaced with a M12x1 brake union.
http://iso-100.com/blog/removing-the-re ... your-xr4ti
Next up was cleaning up some vacuum lines while I had the IM out. I'll eventually move the wiring too.
Before bleeding, new calipers came in. Pieces of absolute crap. One slide pin didn't even move in the bracket so that needed to be opened up a lot. Both also leaked fluid around the copper washers on the banjo. They weren't machined correctly so I had to hit them with a file. Once the chipped lip around the hole was fixed, they sealed up.
Replaced the drilled rotors too with Centric blanks and the no-name pads with Hawk HPS
Fronts got a refresh too: HPS pads and StopTech rotors:
Now can finally bleed the brakes:
Spacers came in as well from a buddy of mine. 1" hubcentric spacers to work with these wheels (BSA 333s), Kosei K1s, and Rota SDRs. The latter two will be wearing Hoosier A6s.
On in the front:
On all around:
Clearance on the SDRs (17x7.5 ET45 with 245/40/17 A6s):
With the current 2.5" ARP studs I only had 6.5 threads of engagement and I didn't feel comfortable. With the help of mc2, picked up a set of 3.25" ARP studs. MORE than enough length.
Carrying the theme of replacing parts that are fine for parts that are a bit better, uncut rear springs replaced with fresh ones from mc2. Still 850lb, but removed my double isolator setup in favor of no isolator. Fronts were also replaced with Eibach 500lb springs (also same rate) but 2" shorter and new collars and sleeves. Mine had taken a beating. Rears weren't too bad with the calipers vs drums. Remove the axle at the hub and remove the lower shock bolt.
While doing the springs, also threw on a Cossie ebrake cable from Mike at Merkur Depot. Caliper mount needed to be opened up 0.120" or so and mounting to the caliper isn't perfect since it isn't designed for the short throw on the TC Varga caliper.
Farther shot away, but the back end finally complete:
Before putting the car back on the ground, the last bushing on the car replaced with poly: FSB clamp bushings. Tough to find these for the XR older style brackets, but now everything on the car is either solid, poly, or nylon.
TCAs were also replaced with new units from Mike. Powerflex bushings pressed into these from my OEM arms with shot balljoints.
FINALLY back on the ground:
Time for new rubber. 215/45/17 GForce Comp 2s back on the BSAs for street driving. Fit "nicely" in the FoST:
Along with the earlier vacuum line cleanup, I removed the PCV return soo... ordered a catch can and some stainless line. This runs off the OEM block separator and then to the can.
Took Ray's advice and made a splash shield similar to the Focus Vortech filter shield. Half a paint mixing bucket and painted black.
Also replaced the valve cover separator which leaked a lot around the lack of grommet. VC was drilled out to 1/2", Silverado grommet used, and 3/8" K&N push-in filter. If this leaks which it may from what I've seen from comments on the setup...I'll run another breather line down to the can.
Re-secured the baffles in the cover too. When these rattle, it makes your butthole pucker. Sounds a lot like rod knock.
With the added "teh lows" I couldn't run the side exit anymore. The more I looked at the exhaust setup the more it pissed me off. With the spare stainless from the FoST exhaust I built, I was able to do this one with just a couple VBands. I reused the resonator and tip, but the rest is all 304.
Another issue was water on both the front floors. Carpet has been out for years and I still couldn't find the leak. It wasn't the sunroof drains and wasn't the battery tray. HVAC completely stopped working and when pulling the box...noticed it was full of water. Sealed both the holes in the firewall (fresh air and recirc) and the car stayed dry. Instead of working with the old box and knowing AC won't go back in the car, I shipped a blower over from the UK without AC. MUCH smaller. Wiring was fun and HUGE thanks to Tom K for sending over a pic of the wiring. Wouldn't have had this working without him.
New box on top and old on bottom:
Tom's pic of the wiring into the XR:
Took overkill to the next level. My connector was corroded so I made my own with a Weatherpack setup. Wires soldered to the blower pins and then to the new connector. Wires were also swapped on the small 2-pin connector for hot and ground to match Tom's pic.
Not messing around with more water in the car, Home Depot provided the new seal for the bottom. 7/16" tall, 3/8" wide rubberized foam seal.
And because rodents suck, wire mesh added to the blower inlet:
Done! Perfect for these 90* August days...
Time for a drive. Last min prep over the brakes for any leaks and checking fasteners one last time:
And the biggest friggen smile on my face. Two months of working 20 hours every weekend and finally got to enjoy the car for an hour
Until next time