Carlisle and event related pictures are to be placed in the relevant section under 'Events'.
Why? Corner entry bite. This car has always been a challenge to get any type of corner entry without understeer. Roll bar bind is a huge issue with these cars, and what the idea is, is that is something contributing to my corner entry understeer. While i've been able to work around this with throttle induced slip angle to get the car "right" again, the sledgehammer technique isn't always the fastest (while it may be the most fun.) Talking with Joe (heat), and Anglin and Grayson, i'm going to try this out and let ya'll know how it works.
Cost of entry for this is fairly inexpensive. Burton Power out of the UK has them for the Sierra. At the time of this post, the conversion rates and shipping had them to my door in under 10 days for a little over $250 USD.
Couple of notes:
1. The mounting bracket to the chassis, if you have converted to studs, is the hardest part. I had to tweak how the studs come out to get this to line up.
2. You need to have the strut at full minimum length, since it's adjustable, and have the TCA in the highest position to get it to fit. Place the TCA mount first, then line up the heim joint, then lower the TCA to get the bolt to line up.
3. This is by far easier to install than reinstalling the sway bar. There is no fighting anything, no cussing, etc.
Suspension information, as this wouldn't be really appropriate for softer rate springs / dampers:
custom valved bilstein dampers, (Grayson, please remind me the rates, i forgot and didn't write it down)
600lb/in hypercoils on mc2racing coilover perches
Powerflex "Black" TCA to subframe bushing
Heim joint upper damper mount to mustang fox body QA1 caster plates on custom made spring top perches
Burton power compression struts
QA-1 Carrera 4/4 aluminum bodied racing shocks
Lightly massaged and reinforced strut tower and STA to accept coilover conversion
hypercoil 325lb/in springs on damper
Heim joint mounts, upper and lower
Solid mounted (ie, welded) beam and diff
mc2racing nylon STA to beam bushings
My car is in off season mode until april, so i wont be able to post results for a few months. And since pictures talk, i snapped a few.
Chassis mount with heim joint
Another view, showing no interference with stud mounts
TCA mounting point (solid) - this will make some noise, i'm sure.
Admins - this was copied / pasted from the "build thread" as it's a point of interest for several folks.
Yes. I just didn't put it back on as i was doing a mock up. There are no clearance issues with that piece.Ed Lijewski wrote:Does the frame stiffener bar reinstall with those?
Also of note - there is no reduction is room for tire travel over stock. The concern was voiced that since the ARB has a kink to allow more tire room, and these are a straight shot, there would be some limit. But, the ARB passes thru the bushing, then makes a bend, then has the kink, these are direct from mount to TCA. If you see where my inner fender wall is rubbed clean by tire wear, and notice that the compression strut is actually further inboard at that point, there is no concern.
1985 Nimbus Grey XR
2017 Ford Focus RS
89 XR4Ti Monique; Waking up a real "Night/Mare-Coor".
T5, NPR IC, PIMP ECU, Walbro 255, Dual piston BOV, Manual BC, 3" exhaust, One piece Aluminum drive-shaft, mc2 LSD, Boport 1.5 cam, Ported and polish head, big valves, 80# injectors, Bob's log, (soon HY35).
Joe - i'll try to put a few street miles on but not until it warms up. cold racing tires are abysmal and i'd just slide around.
Yep, no worries. My car won't be driving until the salt is gone anyway.Ray wrote: Joe - i'll try to put a few street miles on but not until it warms up. cold racing tires are abysmal and i'd just slide around.
1985 Nimbus Grey XR
2017 Ford Focus RS
'85 Merkur XR4Ti
K20, VW mk2
'89 K2500, 6.0 swap
'00 Honda Insight
catapultkid wrote:Thanks Ray, always wondered about this kit. I also always thought that the wheels would hit it if it is straight as the sway bar has a bend for the wheel and tire clearance. Hopefully this isnt the case.
The sway bar passes thru the bushing, then makes a bend in then out. This comes directly from the chassis mount location and the edge of the strut doesn't appear to extend into the wheel tunnel where the tire would hit. I frequently rub my fronts on the inner fender (seen in the picture) and that is my limit. the strut isn't further into the well than the inner fender so i doubt there is any issue there.
Once i either find my missing micrometer (i think someone stole it from a friend who was borrowing it, sucks too, was a mitutoyo 200mm set), or buy another set, i'll work on adjusting the caster in an even manner, then will align front toe, then set the car on the ground and i might go out if we get a few warm days up and down my little dead end street. I'm hopeful but not confident this is the answer to my corner entry bite.