3d models for components of XR4ti and Scorpio

[brokencase]

John - As indicated earlier someone has already made a dome light model.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4772578

Let me make it clear here. The goal is to create 3d models of items that frequently break on Merkurs that are no longer available and post these models on thingiverse.

I'm not trying to provide a free 3d printing service for folks.

If you have an item on the Xr4ti that I don't have access to, and it is something we deem worth modeling, and it is something that I can model, then as a reward to that person who sends me that item so I can model it then I will 3d print them the resulting model on my fdm printer and send those back to the individual.

For example, right now I am presently working on modeling the heater vent motor gears on the Scorpio. These break frequently.

Now Ed wants me to do this door latch, but I'm not sure that the item will hold up if made out of plastic. Ed, it it was originally made out of metal, how is it going to hold up if made out of plastic? I know you want a new one Ed, but If the plastic version breaks in two weeks or two months then what is the point?

Let us focus on the little plastic items that break first.

[Ed Lijewski]

Replacement HVAC vent motor gears of stronger/durable material have been available for years at fair price. Do you have an idea to improve them, or is the thought to add them to Thingiverse under Merkur Scorpio items for those with 3D printers to make them?

The XR trunk finger lip/lock barrel is used to raise the trunk once unlocked; and maybe also in lowering it to latch it.

These have cracked due to faulty design that did not allow a modest amount of extra space for the solenoid actuated lock/unlock lever swings.

You know the properties of printing material available, I don't. I have a couple of 3/8 and 1/2 Husky brand socket sets that come in a plastic case that is extremely durable; you can't ding it or break it in typical use. Printing material of that, or close to that, strength would work and last under use.

I have good ones on my XRs, one was a new barrel that Steve Johnson (no longer on here) luckily bought a load of from a UK vendor. So I don't need a printed one. But as a long time XR owner and on here I know those barrels have failed in the hundreds if not more. Each of the three bad locks I have (I only took pics of two, posted earlier above) I pulled from JY XRs in looking for good ones. So I'm motivated on this for others to benefit if they chose to.

YMMV

[brokencase]

"is the thought to add them to Thingiverse under Merkur Scorpio items for those with 3D printers to make them?"

Yes - You finally got it! Not just Scorpio but for Merkurs in general. A library of 3d models of things that often break on Merkurs that are no longer available.

BTW, One can 3d print a vent gear for around 20 cents. Is that a fair price?

Ed - I cannot go down the long road of trying to develop a plastic version of the latch that was originally made of metal.

The following scenario is NOT going to happen.
1) Model latch
2) Send to Ed.
3) Ed says it broke 2 weeks later
4) Ed says can you make this section thicker/stronger?
5) goto step 1 ad infinitum

So lets stick to those PLASTIC (or flexible urethane) items in the short term.

BTW, 3d printing 90 durometer polyurethane bushings is possible. But it takes and incredible long time to print a large suspension bushing in solid polyurethane.

So I will not print large polyurethane suspension bushings. But I will model them and post the model on thingiverse if you send me the dimensions.
Typically what you do for large suspension bushings is you print a low density plastic version of the bushing and then use that part to make a silicone mold. You can use pourable polyurethane to make production parts. Affordable mold silicone and pourable urethane are available from https://www.smooth-on.com

Just an FYI - there is a tool to make a 2 part mold 3d model for another 3d model.


Let us start a "Want list" of potential candidates...

John Keefe mentioned Scorpio/XR4ti door latch surrounds. Are these the same between Scorpio and XR4ti? I've never seen them break on a Scorpio. Is this a common failure? We will prioritize accordingly.

I was thinking of polyurethane bushing replacements for the Scorpio's rear swaybar
I was thinking of polyurethane version of the square rear diff support bushing (I think this is same for Scorpio and XR)
If either the above are currently available reasonably priced please let me know.

[Ed Lijewski]

Persisting in calling the lock barrel housing a latch is intentionally mischaracterizing it.

Persisting in using OAL (overall axle length) instead of the industry standard OCL (overall collapsed length) for CV half shaft linear dimensions is not helpful.

Persisting to state that a 3D printed lock barrel housing would be for my use when I've repeatedly implied it would be for others to consider muddies the water needlessly.

Nonetheless, moving on from the lock barrel housing (not/not latch...) suggestion.

YMMV

[john keefe]

I brought up the dome light because it was the lens refractory details that kept messing up my attempts in the silicone molds... even vacuuming/vent the plastic flow couldn't a complete fill around the details, and the tests would either break easily, or have voids. Just figured a laser would pick up all those original details much better, if people wanted a more exact duplication.

re: the door bezels, that would be for the Scorpio, with that chrome trim. Substantially smaller than the combo cover-pull of the XR. Don't know if its a common occurence, just that 2 of mine are cracked, and it kinda' stands out against a clean, light-brown/taupe door card.

[brokencase]

Persisting to...wah...wah...wah...

I don't care what you call it...It's metal and we are not working on that right now.

..and if I happen to say OAL instead of COAL regarding CV's - Well I'm pretty sure everyone knew the intended meaning.

[brokencase]

I brought up the dome light because it was the lens refractory details that kept messing up my attempts in the silicone molds... even vacuuming/vent the plastic flow couldn't a complete fill around the details, and the tests would either break easily, or have voids. Just figured a laser would pick up all those original details much better, if people wanted a more exact duplication.

Is a frosted look satisfactory on the dome lens? Specifically - polished on the cabin exposed surface and frosted on the inside?

If I were to print the XR dome model already on Thingiverse I would try the method described here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRLJ4ylGTFc
..and I would print the part in PETG clear, and then I would polish the bottom, cabin exposed surface.

In fact, this is the only way that I know of achieving a transparent part with a conventional 3d filament printer with any clarity.

The preferred method for clear part would be to use a UV resin printer. Sadly, I don't own one of those yet. But I'm thinking about getting one.

I am anxious to try out this "salt re-melt method" and I have clear PETG here. I'll print the XR dome model and do what I stated and post pictures and you can tell me what you think.

In fact, post a picture here of the original dome lens. I'd like to compare that to the model up on thingiverse already.

[brokencase]

A few items that need to be added to our list...

The floats that are used for the level sensors for the washer tank and the the radiator tank.

I have already printed this for my Scorpio - a cylindrical spacer that goes under the rear hatch rebounds. It helps eliminate rear hatch "thumping".

This is not stock, but I'm thinking about a secondary "snorkel" that would fit into a new hole cut into the front of the Scorpio's air filter box.
I and some other folks believe the stock air inlet into the airbox is too small and restrictive.

The stock ignition wire separators often break on the Scorpio. I believe there are two that attach to the valve covers.
If anybody has these intact and correct please let me know. Standard ignition wire separators are already up on thingiverse.

[john keefe]

I'll try to get a couple pics tomorrow.

Frosted inside with clear outside would look good, but a little weak in light emissions considering all the dimples, etc. in the stock piece. Stock is already kinda' weak, probably designed with all the dimpling and prisms to throw light more in a flat planar field, rather than light up the whole cabin (i.e., for fumbling with your keys, checking a map, or your wallet for "supplies," or shuffling through your cassette track selections before getting underway ).

Frosted-polished would probably work well, though, if you could do a 3D image that eliminates most of the refractions/prisms. And, a source a better bulb. Me, I've gotten used to newer interiors which put out a good amount of light at night. All my XR and Scorpio interior lenses are yellowed, so they're not worth much in terms of illumination, especially with those weak bulbs.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I brought up the dome light because it was the lens refractory details that kept messing up my attempts in the silicone molds... even vacuuming/vent the plastic flow couldn't a complete fill around the details, and the tests would either break easily, or have voids. Just figured a laser would pick up all those original details much better, if people wanted a more exact duplication.

re: the door bezels, that would be for the Scorpio, with that chrome trim. Substantially smaller than the combo cover-pull of the XR. Don't know if its a common occurence, just that 2 of mine are cracked, and it kinda' stands out against a clean, light-brown/taupe door card.

The dome light, but with a thicker plastic and also a slot to put in a LED light something in the 5-10 watt range. Should be bright enough even if plastic is less clear than the original. What about the gauge cluster surround if printed in a few smaller pieces? Same for Cowl plastic which may need ten or more pieces since it is so long.

[john keefe]

I was thinking about the cowl piece too, and the "missing" leaf catcher cowl insert for the Scorpio (having just spent a couple hours trying to vacuum and pry a Winter's worth of crap from the crevices).

Brokencase, some photos of the stock dome light. This is a little cloudy, my recollection was that the stock ones were clear. If you need more detailed pics, or of the other components, let me know.

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[john keefe]

And,

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This shows the tricky section, with the little mushroom tab, and the two devil's fork ears. Forget what attaches to them.

KIMG0142.JPG (183.86 KiB) Viewed 8779 times

There's another clear plastic piece which goes inside, and this might the be one Andy might have meant when referring to a large opening for a bigger bulb. If you need a photo, let me know

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I will take a picture of mine and post it. The 10w bulb must get hot in there and I'm sure that doesn't help with longevity. That extra piece of clear plastic inside seems to act as a reflector. I was thinking it would be cool to use one of those led light strips (the kind you cut to length) inside of a 3d printed dome light lens. So even if it was a little thicker and slightly opaque there would be plenty of light output.

[brokencase]

OK, so the model up on thingiverse...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4772578

...is a bit of a simplification compared to the original. This is not necessarily a bad thing. So long as this model fits satisfactory.

But it does appear that the original does have some frosting.

I'm printing the model right now in clear PETG. Looks like it will take about 3 hours to print.

I'll post pictures of the completed print and then I will try this salt re-melt procedure and show pictures of that.

I don't think I can capture the little facets in the inside of the part with laser scanning. But these details would never be reproducible with a conventional fdm printer anyway. However these features would be reproduced on a UV resin printer.

The best way to implement those facets is to import the model into OpenSCAD and write some code that generates a grid of little spheres that are subtracted from the inside surface of the model. I will see what I can do and repost the improved version.

[john keefe]

Pretty damn creative solution. Nice to have a lot of experience with a cool tech like this, except of course that you either start looking for things to do with it to justify the costs, or you get swamped with buddies' asking you to print up something for them.

Would it help a whole lot if I sent you the dome so you can do an actual measure?