Removing Scorpio dashboard and blower motor...any tips?

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MerkurScorpio
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Removing Scorpio dashboard and blower motor...any tips?

Post by MerkurScorpio » Mon Oct 25, 2004 1:28 am

Hi Everyone,

This week I intend to remove at least the top portion of the dashboard in my Scorpio to do some cleaning and likely disconnect my very loud and useless blower motor. Getting the dashboard off looks like a relatively easy job, but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips or things to look out for when doing this.

Furthermore, if anyone has any thoughts on disconnecting the power supply to the blower motor until I can get a replacement, let me know.

Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks!

-Paul-Michael Van Hook
'89 Merkur Scorpio
'92 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon
'91 Saab 900s 16v FOR SALE!!!

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Post by Freejack » Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:19 am

On Scorpios the blower motor is actually external, you do not need to touch the dash board to get at it. If you just want to disconnect it, there is a connector that is easy to get to that will do the job. Look in the area, under the hood, just below the bottem of the windshield, there is a large black plastic box, that is the blower motor housing. Toward the front and center of that box is the connector for the blower motor.

Jake

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Post by ScorpioCDN » Mon Oct 25, 2004 10:22 am

Hi,

I had my Scorpio's heater blower replaced last year by a mechanic. I think you remove blower motor from the engine side compartment.

cheers,
J.G.C.
Jag XK120
2-Jag XJ6
Triumph TR6
MGB-GT
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Scorpio 1989

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Post by MarioP3_XR4Ti » Mon Oct 25, 2004 1:21 pm

Fixing the blower motor isn't really as hard as it sounds. But you will have to have the A/C system evacuated (unless it's already empty!) to do the job. The blower motor is under the cowl area of the windshield.

To remove the blower housing, first remove the battery. See the "firewall" sheet metal behind the battery? It is removable, and comes out in three sections across the compartment. Only two sections need to be removed, the battery side and the one behind the engine. It is a bit of a pain, but with a decent socket set and innovative extension use it can be done.

The battery compartment is easiest to start with. Remove the bolts and nut (10mm socket) holding it in. Leave it in place for now.

Start the engine panel removal by carefully unbolting the water heater valve from the firewall. You don't need to remove the hoses, it will move enough to remove the panel and blower housing. Sometimes there is a plastic clip for a wire or small vacuum line on the bolt head, it presses on and will unscrew from the heater valve stud.

Open the clips that hold the various hoses and whatnot neatly along the firewall. Slide those hoses and wire bundles out of the clips.

When this is done, find the two A/C drains from the bottom of the panel. They pull off and have an insulating pad that will probably come with them.

There are two Phillips screws at the bottom of the panel, and can be reached with a long screwdriver. If you've a magnetic one it will make it easier to keep the screw! These screws are angled so you can get them from the top unlike the XR4Ti's panel bolts...

There are two bolts on the driver’s side. One is maddenly behind the master cylinder reservoir, but can be reached with an end-wrench.

Remove the cover for the suction A/C line where it goes through the panel. Another 10mm. Then using a torx bit (27?) remove the A/C lines from the expansion valve. The small line is held in by the clamp that is part of the large line. Work the large line out of the panel carefully so as not to damage it. If you're from a place that collects pine needles or leaves, put a baggy over the expansion valve so you don't get any foreign objects in the evaporator through the expansion valve.

Now you should (if I didn't forget any bolts or screws in this narrative) be able to remove the center panel. Carefully.

Then remove the battery side panel.

Unplug the wiring connections to the blower box and un-plug the vacuum line from the air door valve. Un-screw the ground wire from near the wiper motor.

Now, remove the wiper arms then remove the bolts holding the wiper frame. These are the torx bolts holding the panel at the bottom of the windshield. As I recall you only need to remove the driver’s side panel.
Move this assembly out of the way.

There are two bolts and two nuts holding the blower motor assy. to the car. They are a 13mm head and can be removed with long extensions with little difficulty.

Once these are removed, gently lift/twist the blower box to dislodge the seal from the bottom of the housing and then remove it to the right side of the car.

To actually change the blower, remove the three Phillips #2 screws holding the blower controller to the box. It has a plug inside; gently remove the plug from the controller.

There are two Phillips #2 screws directly below the controller. Remove them.

Remove the air control door rod screw. Remove the control rod. Look carefully at the relationship the geared door has, so when it's time to reassemble you can put it back the same way.

Remove the vacuum controller for the rod (8 mm nuts).

Remove the ice detector box from the blower case (two Phillips #2 screws) let it hang for a moment.

Now there are many small spring clips holding the case halves together. Look at them; you will see one side has an extension to use to remove them. Using a small standard screwdriver or pocket knive or whatever, carefully pop each one off.

Separate the case, remove the ice detector from the evaporator and set aside. Do not loose the small plastic spacer from the detector. Remove the evaporator and set aside.

There is one screw holding the blower motor in, remove it and the blower will be free.

Trite as it is, assembly is the reversal of the above steps.

Take the time to vacuum all the junk and debris that have collected in the area behind the panel. If there are any sign of rust or paint damage now is the time to fix it. If you look at the panels you removed, you should see the water drains, they are usually clogged and this is why *(since the drivers side has the fuse box)* the carpet gets wet. We don't remove the driver’s panel because we don't HAVE to, but if your car is really full of debris you might consider it as preventive maintenance.

If you've put off converting to R134 refrigerant, now is the time. To properly reassemble the A/C system, you need the o-rings for the line ends anyway; the evaporator is out with the expansion valve, so why not change all the o-rings at the hard to work on end of the A/C now?

I do recommend that if you're going to leave the system open for any time, you seal the A/C line openings and the evaporator openings.

For what it's worth, this job took me about four hours the first time I did it on a Scorpio and that was without any guidance, just experience with XR4Ti's systems.

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Re: Dashboard/Blower Motor

Post by MerkurScorpio » Mon Oct 25, 2004 3:40 pm

Hey Guys,

Thanks a million for the tips. You just saved me a huge amount of time!

-Paul
'89 Merkur Scorpio
'92 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon
'91 Saab 900s 16v FOR SALE!!!

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