'92 - '94 Ranger Alternator Bracket Info
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'92 - '94 Ranger Alternator Bracket Info
We've had info about this scattered in a bunch of threads - I thought I'd try to bring it all into one place.
There are a few different ways to do this, but obviously the starting point is the passenger-side mounted 3G alternator and bracket from a '92 - '94 2.3 Ranger. This alternator (only) is shared with the 90's Explorer, so it's readily available in the junkyard or you'll likely find it on the shelf at any autoparts store. The Explorer 12V+ power cable is also the perfect length for use in the XR and it comes complete with an in-line dual fusible link.
Assumming you still want power steering, here's what you need:
Crank pulley donor:
'83 - '88 Ranger or '87/8 Turbo Coupe (you can also use a '89 - '91 Ranger or '91 - '93 Mustang, but these are DIS engines so you'll have to get the ring gear that the pulley bolts to. These can often be rust-seized to the crank, but if you're considering a future DIS conversion, it might be worth the effort)
Water pump pulley donor:
'83 - '91 Ranger or '87 - '93 Mustang (no difference on the DIS engines, so this should be the easiest one to find)
Power steering bracket/pulley/tensioner:
'87 - '90 Mustang (best choice)
'91 - '93 Mustang (nearly as good, but one bolt hole doesn't line up)
'87/8 Turbo Coupe
The belt for the alternator side is Dayco 5060407 or Duralast 407K6, although you can go +/- about an inch in either direction and the tensioner will take up the slack.
Not sure about the pwr steering side belt, as I'm not running one, but here's a pic of what it looks like (not my engine).
There are a few different ways to do this, but obviously the starting point is the passenger-side mounted 3G alternator and bracket from a '92 - '94 2.3 Ranger. This alternator (only) is shared with the 90's Explorer, so it's readily available in the junkyard or you'll likely find it on the shelf at any autoparts store. The Explorer 12V+ power cable is also the perfect length for use in the XR and it comes complete with an in-line dual fusible link.
Assumming you still want power steering, here's what you need:
Crank pulley donor:
'83 - '88 Ranger or '87/8 Turbo Coupe (you can also use a '89 - '91 Ranger or '91 - '93 Mustang, but these are DIS engines so you'll have to get the ring gear that the pulley bolts to. These can often be rust-seized to the crank, but if you're considering a future DIS conversion, it might be worth the effort)
Water pump pulley donor:
'83 - '91 Ranger or '87 - '93 Mustang (no difference on the DIS engines, so this should be the easiest one to find)
Power steering bracket/pulley/tensioner:
'87 - '90 Mustang (best choice)
'91 - '93 Mustang (nearly as good, but one bolt hole doesn't line up)
'87/8 Turbo Coupe
The belt for the alternator side is Dayco 5060407 or Duralast 407K6, although you can go +/- about an inch in either direction and the tensioner will take up the slack.
Not sure about the pwr steering side belt, as I'm not running one, but here's a pic of what it looks like (not my engine).
Last edited by DPDISXR4Ti on Sun May 23, 2010 1:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Brad
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Re: '92 - '94 Ranger Alternator Bracket Info
Great info all in one place.
What about the '92-'94 Ranger Power steering bracket/pulley/tensioner? I thought those could be used if you trim a section off the top? Yes, no?DPDISXR4Ti wrote:
Power steering bracket/pulley/tensioner:
'87 - '90 Mustang (best choice)
'91 - '93 Mustang (nearly as good, but one bolt hole doesn't line up)
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Re: '92 - '94 Ranger Alternator Bracket Info
That could only work if you're going with a true-serpentine, one belt setup. I specifically excluded that route cause I've never seen it done in a Merkur. I'm not sure if the bracket even fits in a Merkur. It *probably* does, but I just tried to stick with what I know works. If someone wants to supply more data to this thread (as opposed to guesses), I'm all for it.merkurdriver wrote:What about the '92-'94 Ranger Power steering bracket/pulley/tensioner? I thought those could be used if you trim a section off the top? Yes, no?
Brad
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When joining a big IC with a radiator and cooling fans clearance can get a bit tight in the front of our engine bays. Does anyone know if the serpentine setups make this any tighter?
3" mandrel bent exhaust, Ported/Polished head, 1.89/1.57 valves, Gutted uppper/Knife edge lower intake, T3/T4, LA3, Big VAM, Cold air intake, 40bob header, Gillis valve, Forge BOV, Mustang SVO T5, Conquest intercooler, 20psi.
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It depends, but generally it's about the same.MerkXRTurbo wrote:When joining a big IC with a radiator and cooling fans clearance can get a bit tight in the front of our engine bays. Does anyone know if the serpentine setups make this any tighter?
Here's a link to Chris Roth's site with pics of a couple different builds with this alternator/bracket setup. Bear in mind however, neither engine was destined for a Merkur installation.
http://rothfam.com/turboranger/rebuild2005/
Brad
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?
I'm working on this as well, (the entire Ranger setup)
YES it does cost serious space up front. Looking at the first pic here, that setup would give you room on the PS side for a puller fan. As it stands, I'm going pusher, and re-locating my (10"x11"x1") oil cooler and almost as big, but not as thick PS cooler, or sourcing where Ian found these(He's on a much need vacation, or I'd ask...)
My rad is a bit closer to the pulleys, and I already hogged out the mounting holes to slide them a far foreward as they'd go. The oblong holes in Chucks moutor mounts MAY come into play here. I don't want to have to go with a pusher fan. My SPAL fans are reversable, and I have the spiffy box that allows them to run backwards when I park, or get stuck in traffic.
YES it does cost serious space up front. Looking at the first pic here, that setup would give you room on the PS side for a puller fan. As it stands, I'm going pusher, and re-locating my (10"x11"x1") oil cooler and almost as big, but not as thick PS cooler, or sourcing where Ian found these(He's on a much need vacation, or I'd ask...)
My rad is a bit closer to the pulleys, and I already hogged out the mounting holes to slide them a far foreward as they'd go. The oblong holes in Chucks moutor mounts MAY come into play here. I don't want to have to go with a pusher fan. My SPAL fans are reversable, and I have the spiffy box that allows them to run backwards when I park, or get stuck in traffic.
It's not a hobby, it's an obsession!
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Re: ?
I guess I was answering this more in the context of the 2-belt setup I pictured above. Configured that way, there's more room on the driver side for intake pipe routing and a radiator-mounted fan.Mike McCreight wrote:I'm working on this as well, (the entire Ranger setup)
YES it does cost serious space up front.
Aside from "air space" savings, there's actually a bunch of reasons for favoring the 2-belt setup, not the least of which is simple availability. If the only piece you have to get from the '92 - '94 Ranger is the bracket, it can make life easier.
Brad
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I hate how things translate onto computer screens sometimes.DPDISXR4Ti wrote:Aren't you both saying the same thing?merkurdriver wrote:I thought Ian's rally car ran both brackets / serp. from 92-94 Rangergranth wrote:The 92-94 Ranger p/s bracket/pulley/tensioner can work, but you need to get everything from it, crank pulleys and all. Ian's Targa car runs this setup.
Yes, I'm agreeing with grant.
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