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Junkyard Shopping List - Feel free to contribute
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DPDISXR4Ti
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Joined: 08 Jan 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teedyo wrote:
Why would anybody retrieve coolant hoses from a junkyard???


Three reasons I can think of...

1) Recently replaced hose might be essentially "as new"
2) Silicone hoses last virtually forever (I've often suggested that one of the blue silicone hoses used on a Crown Vic cop car or taxi is a good donor for Saab 900 radiator installs
3) OEM hose NLA, so you gotta get what you can get


Adding a new item from the recent thread...
16" spare (donut) from a Saab 9000 (high-end models like CSE and Aero) for clearing "big" brakes

And yes, eventually I'll get around to consolidating all these items in one post for easy printing.
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DPDISXR4Ti
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New item that will have limited appeal....

Saab 9000 fuel filler elbow connector (accessed from right-rear wheel well)

If you want to convert your fuel-filler pipe to a 2-piece, this elbow is precisely the correct angle at ~80 degrees. Depending on the year, there are two different inlet sizes - one is 1.25" and the other is about 2"; the outlet is 2" for both.

For the Brat project, I need to have a small diameter upper pipe (clearance issues), which was really the driver for this project - I may use one from an Explorer. I will however need to add a vent from the top of the tank to the top of the filler neck - pretty much a requirement with a sub 2" filler neck.
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DPDISXR4Ti
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MerlinMerkur wrote:
CV12Steve wrote:
DPDISXR4Ti wrote:
Ah, so the "storage location" is under the hood, attached to the magnetic base. Neat, never noticed these. But then, I haven't had much reason to go looking under the hood of GM trucks.
Right, but the magnet is on the light itself. It stores in a clip on the base, or I've seen some that have a plate the light sticks to when stored. I'd trust the first method more.


Pulled one of these out of a 91 GMC Sierra, the durn cord is 20ft long and has a magnetic base (weak albeit) but its great for little jobs where a small light can be positioned nearby.

They came with all models of teh above truck from 88 to 92, or otherwise that same body style, idk other donors.


Here's what these look like, and sell for new, if interested...
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/reellightkit.aspx

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DPDISXR4Ti
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another item per Dimitri's recommendation...

V6 Contour or Cougar low-profile dual cooling fans w/ shroud, precisely as shown below (less the controller):
http://www.dccontrol.com/33212info.htm


Some junkyard terrorism tactics will be needed on the radiator support to gain enough clearance to easily remove these. Sawzall will work best, but hammer will suffice.
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milehighXR
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An item for Scorpios, the power mirror switch for a Contour/Mystique is identical in fit and function to the Scorpio switch. Plug and play. I have one in the black 89, comparo pics later.
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stinky_1
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing I notice as I am reading through these lists, there is not much mention if the items are a direct swap, or some sort of upgrade over stock, where modifications are required.

If someone is planning to go through, and clean this up, can we get the list devided into 2. One list for direct replacements. For those NOT look for upgrades, just trying to keep what they have working.

And a second list for recomended upgrades, possibly listing what exactly needs to be modded for it to work on the vehicle. And maybe the level of skill involved.

Since I am a new XR owner, I am looking right now for parts that will just fix what I have, and get the car working right. I am not concerned about upgrades. But with the vagueness of some of the posts, I dont know why I even need the part listed, let alone, if its a direct fit or not.
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DPDISXR4Ti
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinky_1 wrote:
One thing I notice as I am reading through these lists, there is not much mention if the items are a direct swap, or some sort of upgrade over stock, where modifications are required.


Generally speaking, since the stuff indicated in this thread is NOT original parts sourced from another Merkur, some amount of modification will be necessary to use anything discussed here. It is entirely possible (likely even), that the parts mentioned herein may be discussed in greater detail in some other post. Search is your friend. Very Happy
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stinky_1
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DPDISXR4Ti wrote:
Search is your friend. Very Happy


deff been doing a lot of that over the last few days. Just figured since I saw that someone had mentioned cleaning this up to make it more readable, that it would be nice to disitnguish somehow if the part is a driect replacement or not. Specifically engine parts.

I would expect most other parts will NOT be a direct replacement. But, since this car shares the same or similar engine setup as a few other cars, some if not most of those parts "should" be a direct swap. Just nice to know which ones are, or are not, before I go looking through the junkyard.
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BuzzBomb2.3
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this is an older thread, but I've had a recent success that I thought would help to pass on.

Recently I've found my passenger spring clip to the brake caliper missing so I tried to the parts stores and dealer. Short of a whole caliper, none could source a replacement. I tried the yard and the base model contour used close to the same "long-wire" style spring clip so I gave it a try. It will require re-bending both ends to 45* degree turns inward from the stock 90*. Two bucks to get into the yard to pick up a set of these for nothing is certainly cheaper then being unable to source a functional part.
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86XR4Ti_John
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BuzzBomb2.3, look at Volvo 850s too. They are also designed with the springs like that. And Ford Focuses.
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BuzzBomb2.3
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they go in without modification, i'll search for a spare set! Thx. Very Happy
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rjfas



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember reading somewhere about the wheel well liners from a 1st gen Taurus/Sable. I pulled a couple recently but have not fitted them yet.
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voltson



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will all Contour/Mystique OEM wheels fit without mods? Specifically Contour SVT 16" wheels?
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merkurdriver
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big VAM Donors:FORD MUSTANG SVO (1984 - 1986)
FORD THUNDERBIRD TURBO COUPE (1987 - 1988)
AND...
BMW 535I (1985 - 1993)
BMW 535IS 1988
BMW 635CSI (1985 - 1989)
BMW 735I (1985 - 1992)
BMW 735IL (1988 - 1992)
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DPDISXR4Ti
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a similar "Junkyard Tuning" thread from the VW world - obviously lots of stuff doesn't apply that is VW-Specific, but some items are universal in application...

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3122371


For example....

-Power trunk button:
Go find a Hyundai Excel (Mk1 vintage, my parts came out of an 89). This might work with other cars, but I think the Hyundai was easiest to remove. Open the hatch/trunk and look at the lock area (for hatches remove the cover).
There should be a big metal cylinder with a rod in it. Undo the rod part, and take out the cylinder. This is the solenoid. Go to the dashboard and pop out the trunk button. It should pry out with a screwdriver.
When you get back to your car, wire the button in series from the fuse block to the switch (use the Bentley to find a free terminal from the dome light fuse or something, or use a tap-in connector), then back to the solenoid.
Use a hose clamp to hold the solenoid in your trunk (I attached it to one of those wire clip holes). use a thin metal wire, and wrap it around the lock trigger (you have to take the latch assembly off to do this).
Put the latch back on and wrap the other end around the solenoid's rod. VolĂ­a, you have a trunk button.

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