Custom Lower Dash

[new300new]

the other night I got some nice pieces I have been waiting for in the mail. And I only have an upper in the car, so I thought about how I could mount it. I remembered seeing on David Godfrey's website something about his custom center console (if you guys haven't seen it, http://www.key-ideas...%20interior.JPG)



Battery kill switch, push start and extra switch that will go to my always running fan...

But I had no idea how to put it in the car so I decided to create my own DG dash

I am no rocket scientist like he is when it comes to fabrication but I can do my part, so bare with me as it is still rough around the edges, figuratively and literally.



I mocked up a dash in 30 minutes time, literally... Was not that hard at all. Anyone could do it.



I then cut out a place for the swtich panel and screwed that bad boy in there.



I mounted the battery in the trunk, just cause I like it better there, and an oil catch will be going in its place eventually.



I then wired everything up and got her good to go! The only thing not yet connected it the switch, its currently just for show and to tell stupid people flicking it makes my car go faster...

I know the appearance isn't amazing especially because my car was a pigsty when I took this photo, currently all the interior is pulled out and its just got the padding in that is under the carpet.



No, I know.. She ain't pretty like David's is. But she does the job and looks pretty sleek especially at the cost of $20 (which can supply enough to make 2 or 3 of these...) But I'm happy, and by tomorrows time there will be a plethora of gauges sitting above it...


Then I cleaned her up a little bit, pulled out the carpet and stuff.



And finally, if ANYONE wants one or wants the dimensions of the dash or have me build one for them, I will be at Carlisle this year and I will probably bring 5-10 of these if there is a demand, and they will look way nicer than mine is with nice clean rounded not sharp nor jagged edges that I have already cut myself on. I can ship it to you only $30 bucks for the dash (that's including materials and my time) then you pay shipping. Let me know!

[Esteban]

Guages would be better mounted in the vent area or in the old clock area. That way you won't have to take your eyes too far off the road or move your head to see them. Otherwise I'd add guages to your custom console that don't need much monitoring while you're driving.

How is the battery mounted? it looks like it's just sitting there.

[new300new]

Guages would be better mounted in the vent area or in the old clock area. That way you won't have to take your eyes too far off the road or move your head to see them. Otherwise I'd add guages to your custom console that don't need much monitoring while you're driving.

How is the battery mounted? it looks like it's just sitting there.

The gauges that will be down there will be voltage, water temp and oil temp for now, boost, air/fuel and fuel pressure will be higher up most likely.

The nice thing is that all my gauges are digital and give me an exact number so I don't have to take long to check them.

The battery will be getting a "cage" that will hold it there in the corner, but for now it is sitting. The starter went bad on me so I kind of can't even drive it until I get another one lol.

[RichBaker]

The nice thing is that all my gauges are digital and give me an exact number so I don't have to take long to check them.
.

Analog gauges mounted so the needle is pointing straight up when at normal operating condition, are faster and easier to tell at a glance. With digital, you still have to read them.... Otherwise, good plan, nice dash.

[XR4Ti_ADY]

Maybe this sounds like a dumb question, but what's the amp limit on the battery kill switch? Also, it's wired straight to the battery +, or does it have some type of high amp relay thing going on?
Really interested in moving my battery where the back seats were and in adding a kill switch.
Thank you!
Good job, by the way. New level of badassity unlocked with that lower dash.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Battery kill switch, push start and extra switch that will go to my always running fan...

I trust that will allow you to turn off that "always running fan", yes? You really don't want the fan running all the time. Once you're over about 40MPH, it actually becomes a hindrance to air-flow.

For a more finished look, you need to have the flange fold back IN rather than out like it is now. Alternatively, no flange at all would be acceptable - you'd just need to figure out a means to fasten it from the sides.

[new300new]

Battery kill switch, push start and extra switch that will go to my always running fan...

I trust that will allow you to turn off that "always running fan", yes? You really don't want the fan running all the time. Once you're over about 40MPH, it actually becomes a hindrance to air-flow.

For a more finishedfinished look, you need to have the flange fold back IN rather than out like it is now. Alternatively, no flange at all would be acceptable - you'd just need to figure out a means to fasten it from the sides.

Yes, it is for the fan. It is so I can have it on while I'm idoling or cruising around.

and I'm working on different means of mounting. the bottom will be fired to screw in like the stock lower would and there will be quick release locks when I finish redoing the floors (rust, yuck). and I'm working on some sort of mounting rod similar to Davids for the too.

god damn auto correct, I have had to edit this like 4 times haha

[new300new]

Maybe this sounds like a dumb question, but what's the amp limit on the battery kill switch? Also, it's wired straight to the battery +, or does it have some type of high amp relay thing going on?
Really interested in moving my battery where the back seats were and in adding a kill switch.
Thank you!
Good job, by the way. New level of badassity unlocked with that lower dash.

No, there is no limit for the kill switch, think of a light switch in your home, most of the wiring is 110v and a simply cut off of power stops the flow. that's why any of the cheapest kill switches (8 dollars on Ebay) will work. the little part I bought cost 27 shipped...

The kill switch is wired in between the battery and the solenoid. The kill switch is a relay, just not powered by a signal from the car, it's human powered. Just splice, connect and enjoy the awesome feeling of having to turn a bunch of switches it turn on your car lol.

And thank.you for the compliment. I will be sure to post the absolute finished product for you guys to see what you think.

[KhanTyranitar]

To me it looks okish. I wouldn't do that in my own car unless I was building it as a track car. I like the insides of my car to look like it could all be stock.

[new300new]

To me it looks okish. I wouldn't do that in my own car unless I was building it as a track car. I like the insides of my car to look like it could all be stock.

I will be auto xing and hopefully tracking it this summer locally, as much as I love the stock look I want the track look

[thebronze]

The "Track Look"

[Ray]

Fuse the positive cable off the battery within 12" of the battery. You have a run of wire that is unprotected in case of fault to a manually controlled kill switch - (the switch is a good idea but a fuse will break the circuit automatically for you).

You might also see gain in a slightly bigger ground cable - then running an additional ground from batt ground (within 2' of batt) to engine / chassis near engine. The car's shell is about the equivalent of a 4ga wire, and the stock starters are hungry- they can spike 130-150 amps on initial fire.

Relay isolate your engine start button (you can run the relay next to the factory relay), it will allow you to run whatever circuit you want; since you dont have a radio or other stuff in there you have a lot of options for power.

Edit: you're also running a lead acid battery - in your "hold down the battery" construction project; install a battery box that will vent and contain the acid in case of an accident or rollover. You can get those at summit, jegs, etc.

Other alternative would be to run an AGM or similar non-spill battery - bonus points they tend to be lighter, and since your car is going to be in "track mode" you'll remove some weight and reduce your polar moment.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

the stock starters are hungry- they can spike 130-150 amps on initial fire.

I presume that's the stock starter, yes? I believe the later "mini starters" are less. They're certainly lighter - I installed mine on the project car engine just yesterday actually.

[wicked93gs]

If I were you I would not install water temp down there....too hard to look at when driving. I got a set of six aftermarket gauges...the ones I put in my cluster(bmw dash swap so its not quite the same as a stock xr setup) are Tach, Speedo, oil pressure, and water temp since they are the most important to make sure your engine is running correctly(can even be argued that speedo isnt that important or even needed on a track car...but mine is a street car) I left voltage and fuel level to add in roughly the same place you are talking about. Above that I will install a Kindle Fire(just happens to be the right size)tablet into the upper dash to interface with Megasquirt and act as an in-dash GPS(and internet connection). The idea is to keep it as functional as possible and the water temp being way down there is not since it can change quickly under track conditions or even if your thermostat goes suddenly.

[Ray]

the stock starters are hungry- they can spike 130-150 amps on initial fire.

I presume that's the stock starter, yes? I believe the later "mini starters" are less. They're certainly lighter - I installed mine on the project car engine just yesterday actually.

Yes, OEM to the car. The smaller ranger starters draw under 100. I run one of the mini starters now too. Wouldn't go back.