Replacing differential seals.

[Grayson]

The pinion seal isn't tough to deal with. You need to remove the driveshaft and driveshaft flange, and then you can change the seal. The side adjusters are a little tougher. You'll have to remove your halfshafts, and the rear axle cover. Pop off the C-clips inside, and you can remove the stub axles. Then you can swap out the seals. Install the stub axles, install the C-clips, re-install the rear cover, and so on. Bonus is that you'll complete a fluid swap while you're at it.

You will not have to reset your backlash unless you remove the two lock plate screws from the side of your rear axle case and turn the bearing carriers/side adjusters. Since there's no reason to do that to swap seals, you shouldn't have to worry about backlash at all.

[hmarkan]

Hi everyone,
I just replaced the clutch on the T9, carrier bearing and u-joints (430-10B, rockford). While I am under there I want to take a look at the differential, too. The differential seems to be leaking. Car has 176000 miles. I don't have any noise issues, etc. All I want to do is, replace the pinion seal and the stub shaft seals, also replace the rear oil. Can I do these without having to adjust the backlash. I can remove the differential from the car. What is the most practical way of replacing the three seals. Also, I am not sure if I have to replace the o-ring on the side adjusters.
Thank you,

[hmarkan]

Thank you Grayson for your quick reply. Since I already have the driveshaft out for clutch work and CV joints out for overhaul, all I have to do is remove the rear.
I am assuming that o-ring on the side adjuster does not normally leak. I have to check if the seals I got from UK are 43 mm, note on your web site.

[Grayson]

I forgot to address the o-ring concern. Yeah, I don't think you need to worry about it. I replace them any time I remove bearing carriers, but I think the source of pretty much any rear axle leak is through the seals.

If you remove the rear axle from the vehicle, be sure to plug the vent tube back in or you will have a leak. My co-driver took my blue car to an event as praised the recent diff install. I got under the car to give everything the once over since that was the first drive on the new diff, and there was lots o' fluid. I forgot the vent tube. Grrrr.

[mhamilton]

Is there a trick to removing the rear axles without breaking 14 torx bits?

Pre-soak and then heat?

[Mike McCreight]

Impact.
Lots of impact.
I hit each one from as many angles as I can with a drift, or more commonly, a sacrificial 3/8 extension. The object is to break the corrosion induced bond between the head of the bolt and the cv joint and that funny bridged washer/spacer thing. Then an impact wrench on the torx bit AFTER you get the socket really clean witha wire brush and a dental pick. I always seat the bit with a quick rap with a hammer. Saves a lot of broken bits, and the resulting removal of said broken bits.
Don't worry about trashing the bolts. Replace them with allan bolts from MC2.
As a last resort, you can take the heads off with a cut-off wheel. This only works on one end of the 1/2 shaft. For physical reasons. The 1/2 shaft won't come out if pinned in on both ends, unless you remove the diff, or pry harder than I like to.
Have fun!

[mhamilton]

Not having much luck locating the differential seals.

[mhamilton]

Luck I had for once. Got all of the bolts out without any problems. I think the diff is leaking so bad, it lubed the bolts.

[mhamilton]

As far as I can tell, the Ford part for the rear diff grease seal # is E5RY1190A
That translated to the Timken part # 3743

[Ed Lijewski]

https://mibearings.com/index.php?main_p ... _id=255653

YMMV

[Grayson]

I'm pretty sure the 3743 is a wheel bearing seal, not a differential seal. That, and I don't stock the 3743 because of its lip structure. I carry SKF for that reason.

[mhamilton]

Can you price me the proper seals?

[hEaT]

Can you price me the proper seals?

Also, I have the rear cover off. I do not see the C clips at all.

Someone may have serviced the diff and not reinstalled them? Do the stubs pull out?

[mhamilton]

Hello, my name is Mark and I am a Dumbass.

I went out determined I was not using my head. Got back under the car. Turned the driveshaft, C clips.

For my next trick, I will gargle peanut butter.

I have the stub frames & carriers out. The seals are in the tight. They had to be destroyed beyond recognition to get them out. The Timken seal is close but as Grayson said, they don't have that extra lip on them.

[hmarkan]

I got the oil seal set for the differential from Ebay UK, the seller was One Stop Gearbox shop. Item was called "Sierra/Cosworth Rear Diff Oil Seal Set".
I also got the Type 9 gearbox gasket and oil seal set from the same seller. I will post some pics tomorrow.