Alternate Heater Control Valve

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Also the factory diagram is incorrect.

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

Here is how ford should have set up the coolant lines from the factory.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Here is how ford should have set up the coolant lines from the factory.

Gotta love the simplicity of old engines. Of course, compared to truly modern engines, the engine bay of a Merkur IS old and simple.

[Ed Lijewski]

What were you saying...?


YMMV

[andyofcolumbusmerkur]

I'm surprised nobody let me have it for posting a chevy engine.

[John Brennan]

I'm surprised nobody let me have it for posting a chevy engine.

Meh... some have even installed Chevy engines...

[thesameguy]

I used the valve from an Aerostar (IIRC) on my Falcon - it's plastic, but has survived over the exhaust manifold for a long time... I don't suspect the Falcon gets anywhere near as hot as the XR, but still a data point. It's the right size, has the right fittings, isn't so much the right shape for an XR. But, maybe ya'll are more imaginative than I.



Sorry for the small pic, it's quite old. There are a few variations depending on source, all the same in function & layout...

[John Brennan]

Top pic (engine) has four outlets; enlarged part pic has three.

It seems these options presuppose the removal of the loop to the oil regulator and its associated input from the lower intake. All create new issues to resolve for every one they eliminate. It would seem to me that unless you're eliminating the valve altogether, your best bet is the stock part.

[thesameguy]

Top pic (engine) has four outlets; enlarged part pic has three.

It seems these options presuppose the removal of the loop to the oil regulator and its associated input from the lower intake. All create new issues to resolve for every one they eliminate. It would seem to me that unless you're eliminating the valve altogether, your best bet is the stock part.

There is a fourth outlet behind the servo, which you can't see.

Here is another view:



Whether or not you remove all the other stuff in the area is really immaterial - the factory valve is a two in, two out - it's either open and sending coolant through the core, or closed and sending it right back out. Not rocket surgery.

Another approach would be do something like some European brands, and use an electric pump to siphon coolant from somewhere and then return it later. The one on my Jag is a two in, two out



Astronomically expensive new, but they are pretty reliable and fairly readily available in the junkyard.

Others are one in, one out:



When the pump isn't running, little to no coolant goes through the core. You can dead-end a feed to the pump and return it mostly anywhere on the return (suction) side of the system.

[John Brennan]

Indeed, I could not see it in that view-- thanks!

I guess my point is that as these things are still available, why futz around with figuring out another way, with all of its attendant extra parts purchases and unintended consequences.

I also understand that as Merkur owners, "That's what we DO!" applies...

But, hey, have at it. I would leave it be, or get rid of it.

[thesameguy]

Totally agreed, I was just being responsive to the topic.

I have been looking into heater control valves for my Saab - they are NLA - so it's been weighing heavily on my mind. Unfortunately, the Saab uses the HCV to control flow and thus heat... there is no blend door. Much more complicated problem than the XR!