Front Wheel Bearings

[thesameguy]

Looks like it's time to do the front wheel bearings... I have all the parts (bought a long time ago from mc2, only ended up doing the rears!) but none of the special tools to install the races. I'm guessing I can use the old races to drive in the new ones, but that always feels clumsy to me. I'm going to poke around the garage and see what else I might use - maybe some of the pieces from the Hub Grappler, but thought I'd post this in case anyone ever needs it:

These are the original part numbers for the installers, their large and small dimensions, and the new part number:

t73t-4222-b 2.85" outer and 2.39" inner new number 308-017
t73t-1202-b 2.29" outer and 1.91" inner new number 204-021
t73t-1202-a 2.40" outer and 1.98" inner new number 204-020

Some are still in production used for cars as recent as ten years ago, but some are long discontinued.

[my8950]

Did you ever get this completed?

[thesameguy]

Haven't started yet... finishing up a transmission swap in a Saab then I'll get to the XR.

[thesameguy]

Finally got the 9-3 back on the road (hopefully ) so I'm starting in on the XR for a bit - fixing whatever vacuum problem resulted in my boost issue over the summer, a formal heat shield for the turbo, and front wheel bearings. Seriously hoping this doesn't turn into some ridiculous protracted issue, so I'm starting with the zero-creativity wheel bearings first. Hopefully it goes smoothly.

[dunhamr1]

.... Seriously hoping this doesn't turn into some ridiculous protracted issue, so I'm starting with the zero-creativity wheel bearings first. Hopefully it goes smoothly.

Oh, don't worry, it will...

[thesameguy]

So, the front wheel bearings use #t73t-1202-b / #204-021 to press in the races. None of the cups in my Hub Grappler kit are even approaching the right size. I found a used cup for $95, which seems obscene for a round piece of metal. The next best option I found are adjustable installers from OTC or ATD - they look and work about the same. They're neat tools!



You just dial a size between 3/4" and 3.5" and go. They are also about $95.

You need a puller to get the old race out - cheap ones for around $50 from Amazon or "good" ones from someone like OTC for about $90.

I don't own either of these tools (yeah, I have full Hub Grappler kit but no bearing race installer, WHATEVER) and so now I'm debating the merits of spending $200 on new tools or just paying someone $50 to install the bearings for me. I like tools, but I also like saving $150.

[John Brennan]

I like tools, too, but considering that there are ~four bearing changes by someone else built into the price of said tools, and given the infrequency of the job needing to be done, I'd let a good shop do it. The other variable might be how many old cars you keep around.

[thesameguy]

Yeah, that's basically where I am.

I'm positive the tools would get used someday... it's just a matter of when. Perhaps oddly, all my old cars have recent wheel bearings... the front end of the XR is the only thing outstanding.

Outsourcing the work means I can have a spare set of spindles done and ready to install Saturday morning and get into the heat shield and vacuum system work and that's attractive... I just gotta be sure I still have that spare set and they are where I think they are!

[thesameguy]

Found the spares... gonna see if I can con someone into putting new bearings in them this afternoon. Decided I'd rather agonize over my brake booster check valve than wheel bearings... really for no good reason.



I'll replace the studs with ARP parts from mc2 before installing. No joke, I've had the studs and the bearings in a box for ten years. I suck.

[thesameguy]

Got the knuckles back from the shop - they kinda hosed me with a whole "it was really hard" sob story and a $150 bill, but it was still cheaper and faster than me buying tools, so whatever. It's done...

... Only thing is, the hubs feel *really* tight. The tech said he only put 195 lb ft on the nuts because spec (215 lb ft) didn't feel right to him.
They are actually difficult to turn by hand. I'm not sure if this is normal, perhaps his torque wrench was miscalibrated? I'm hesitant to retorque them. Anyone have any opinions on what "normal new tight" should feel like?

[merk23literturbo]

They need to be tightened to the correct spec, loosen them and correct the torque. The backs are 255 so just because he never saw that number before, doesn't mean it's wrong. BTW, A spec is a spec for a reason, whenever I do mine they are really tight but drive the car a couple miles and they loosen up.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

whenever I do mine they are really tight but drive the car a couple miles and they loosen up.

^^^ I also like to re-torque after a few miles have been put on the new bearings.

Consistent with what you're experiencing, unloaded, I've found that worn out bearings spin easier than new ones.

[thesameguy]

That makes sense. The high torque values on these bearings is, in my limited experience, unique. Usually with unsealed bearings you have very low values and an expected result. I didn't have any basis for comparison since the rear bearings can't be evaluated like the front (being bound by the axle ).

It's back together now - just debating whether to leave it in the garage for a bit while I mull over vacuum system options or get back to driving it while I ponder.

How do you retorque after driving? My socket wouldn't even *almost* fit with the strut in place... do you take everything apart again?

[DPDISXR4Ti]

How do you retorque after driving? My socket wouldn't even *almost* fit with the strut in place... do you take everything apart again?

I was referring more to the rears when I said that ...as well as my Audi, which has an axle bolt to torque to a ridiculous value at all four corners.

[thesameguy]

Ah, yeah, much easier when the nut is exposed to the outside. The configuration on the XR4Ti's front is just dumb. Torquing axle nuts to 200+ lb ft on a bench is no Bueno. I need a 2' long torque wrench just to have enough mechanical advantage to do it.