Original owner since '86 planning updates...

[eaton53]

Fuel gauge acts goofy; works then shows empty or low the next time started when it is mostly full.

If I leave mine out in the sun with the windows up, my fuel gauge will work. Otherwise not.
No big deal, the low fuel light works fine.

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

I have watched the footage of the XR4Ti racing a Corvette at VIR (I have been there for Super Bike races) and looked long and hard at the on dash added gauges. I would not give up the vents but the clock might be an idea. I would like to have an oil temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge I think. An ammeter would be nice but the oil info would be a great addition. My SVT Focus has those... A real boost gauge might be nice as well. My temp gauge has never been a problem on the XR4Ti.

Oh, does anyone have a top hatch handle with the little knob still there? Mine had the knob break off in the late '80's.

My dash top looks like a dry lake bed in California. Any feedback about dash covers from Rock Auto? I was in Texas when the car was new and the heat down there killed my dash and all the Mercedes dashes at the time as well. The Volvo dashes seemed to survive though as my GF of the time had one. The GF that talked me into an auto transmission.

Cheers

[thesameguy]

I guess worst case?

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

I enjoyed working on the Merk this weekend and also drove it around a bit to see what to do next. The passenger door window is up and not working so I removed the door panel. I also pulled the switch and checked it: good. Then I cleaned window motor power and control connections with electronics cleaner and lubed the linkage for the door lock and the door latches with penetrating oil. After locking and unlocking the doors a few times it became much freer moving. I put a small bit of moly lithium grease at each eyelet in the linkage and worked it into the eyelet to reduce friction. While oiling I did the rear hatch latch and the door hinges. I will pull the window motor out the next time over there and take it apart to see if it is savable. The windows were fine when it was long term parked, as were other things like gauges and clocks... How do you get the window motor out of the door?

The fuel gauge decided to work normally for a bit and then went back to 1/4 tank reading, with a full tank. The tach remains as before with 1,000 rpm being about top reading. Lights are mostly fine with the exception of some burned out gauge lights which I plan to do next. Temp gauge works perfectly and that is the original sensor as far as I know.

My priority has shifted slightly as I plan to do the diff mount and rear shocks next trip over. I am going to let the radiator slide a while as it is working and I can use it for a while with replacement still the plan but as of now not the next item. I have an oil leak at the back of the head, I think. I used a low pressure car wash to rinse the sides of the motor and the sides remain oil free after running the car or driving it some. I do have a leak though as it drips oil on the floor. I am convinced it is the valve cover gasket. I don't know what gasket is in the valve cover as the car sat seventeen years after being rebuilt. I am guessing rubber/cork as the one that came with the head gasket set. I guess I need the ranger valve cover gasket here.

My car had the update to the catalytic converter that was done some time around 1993 I think. I left the car with my dad to drive and lived over seas for quite a while in the '90's. As part of that modification there is a PCV like valve next to the EGR valve in the hose. Anyone else have this? Removal of this would be good or bad?

Cheers

[timxr8]

Brake upgrades can depend on wheel size. If keeping the stock 14" or even 15" "Spatula" wheels, I would recommend the MerkurDepot rear kit. Front I would leave stock to match. If going with 15" and not the Spatula, I have a setup to utilize the 2012+ Focus brakes on essentially all 4 corners (11" rotors). No adapters in the front and great adapters in the rear. Comes with DOT, direct fit hoses. Will feel better than stock, even on the early, smaller, master cylinder.

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

I have watched all the listings of possible brake changes with interest as I have a 2004 SVT Focus with great brakes and wish the XR4Ti had the same set. I have 14" rims at the moment and have looked for 16" or 17" rims but have not seen any that I like enough to buy so far. The tire selection for 14" is not as wide as larger sizes. I am convinced I need wheels first in that category because the really good kits need more space...

As a follow on, I spent about 15 minutes looking in the MC2 site and had $1,300 worth of suspension and other goodies I wanted in short order. I didn't buy them at this time, merely added up what I will have in the next few months as I progress my way through the car. A coworker asked me why I would spend that on a 30 year old car. I answered it would be like new underneath with a freshly rebuilt motor when I am through and it is paid for and no payments to make other than maintenance. So, further posts as work progresses!

Cheers

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

As a follow on to other comments I am wondering if anyone has tried LED conversion kits for the 9004 bulbs? I changed to high output 9004 bulbs and am quite disappointed in the beam and pattern of the stock style bulbs. I have an SVT Focus with HID lights and it has both driving and fog lamps so I am spoiled by good lights on that car. I keep reading the marketing babble in the LED conversion ads but my real question is this: Does the headlamp housing focus the beam properly with the LED kits? I watched 24 Hours of Lemans over the weekend and the lighting at night from those cars was amazing but of course the housings were designed for LED patterns from inception. Anyone have any experience here with these?

Cheers

[thesameguy]

Don't waste your money. The stock headlights were crap when the cars were new - the fanciest bulbs in the universe won't fit bad reflector & lens design.

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

I think the issue is the bulbs are burned out in the clock. I can't tell if it is working or not without being lit. I am wondering if these Osram small bulbs are out there for sale somewhere? Anyone?

MILESTONE: I took the car to an inspection station yesterday and it passed! I am planning to put tags on it tomorrow and start running around in it some of the time. It will be fun, I am sure.

Cheers and a good time was had by all...

[merkurdriver]

I think the issue is the bulbs are burned out in the clock. I can't tell if it is working or not without being lit. I am wondering if these Osram small bulbs are out there for sale somewhere? Anyone?

Yes, we stock the german Osram bulbs for the clock.

[zxr250cc]

Thanks for the quick reply. I will order a spare set, I guess, as they are certainly not a normal stock item in any parts houses.

I tried to get the dash panel out but could not get the speedo cable loose. Are bulbs like the clock on the back of the dash panel? Or does it have 168 or 194 bulbs?

Oh, I have tags for the car now and can drive it around now! It can be driven as if it is a normal daily driver car now, if needed.

Cheers

[zxr250cc]

Hi all,

I had a new issue show up this weekend. The o-ring on the boost control solenoid has failed. I looked in my all purpose o-ring kit but nothing is even close to that thin at that size. While looking at the vacuum lines and wondering about blanking them off or routing them as if the control valve was never there it seemed I should ask advice in here. Should it have a BOV instead?

[thesameguy]

The BCS is not the same thing as a BOV/BPV/whatever... I think most people just delete the BCS as most of them have failed at this point anyway - I know I did. Route the outlet from the compressor back to the wastegate actuator and call it a day. A low boost day.

[Esteban]

The WGA is already connected to the tee on the turbo housing. Connect the other port of the tee to one of the port on the turbo snout and that will get you 15psi sooner than the BCS allows. You're basically replacing the entire BCS circuit with a hose.

[thesameguy]

Can you explain that to me? The BCS blocks pressure to the WGA to keep it closed... if you remove the BCS, how can you get that same function? Mostly just curious!