Is it the merkurtech site that has the what to do to buy a used Merk page? It has great advice about what to do to an old car to update it for fluids and checks on what to look for as problems, I seem to recall. Anyone?
As a side note on my own '86 car, I am now ready to do the underside suspension parts and only need to get the poly differential mount to take the car apart and have new struts, shocks and the rear end stabilized.
So an update on the merkur. Oil consumption is pretty fast on this car, I’ve driven it maybe 80 miles or so and I’ve probably run through two qts of oil. My plans are to rebuild the turbo and replace turbo lines and pcv and later on valve stem seals. I’ve never seen a car burn oil so fast. Is there something else I should look at?
Wow, that's a lot. Hopefully it isn't something catastrophic like a block. Could be head gasket, valves, rings, assorted small leaks or problems. Change the filter yet? It could be completely blocked up like the turbo, though less likely.
'85 Mineral Blue & '87 White Barn Find parked in '92
R Code wrote: ↑Sat Oct 27, 2018 12:36 pm
You guys are more helpful than you know, as I make a list of things to check on my newly acquired '89.
Welcome! Glad it up and wants to move! I worked about a year and a bit before mine even ran. (also an '89)
Hopefully your Master cylinder doesn't go out, those are turning into unobtainium... Replacements (reman) can be had but the stock is dwindling. Go for a Scorpio master or I believe one of the vendors is working on an adapter?
-Ryan Dunham
1989 Merkur XR4Ti - nickname: "SheaXR4"
Daily: 2016 VW Golf R "Matti"
E-Street Autocross car: 2001 Mazda Miata
Old daily: 2003 VW Golf MkIV TDI, 200k+ mi
"Racing is Life. Anything else is just waiting." -Steve McQueen
Have not had access to a compression tool yet, definitely my plan for this weekend. After running sea foam and an atf flush it’s cleared up a lot of the smoke. Valve cover does leak but not bad enough to raise suspicion. But I am one bulb away from my cluster bulbs working again though
A note on the high oil consumption...check the PCV valve. You want the plastic Motorcraft one in there. The aftermarket metal ones are no good.
Its cheap and easy to change.
I've bought XRs CHEAP with a lot of oil burning. Someone is convinced the turbo is blown, or the headgasket, etc. etc.
3 times out of 5 I have been lucky enough to fix it on the spot and drive home smoke free.
Pcv should be here next week. Snow hit us this week so will not be driving it too much to see if it wants to keep eating oil. Either way I’m still stoked to own this car
Stussy wrote: ↑Mon Oct 29, 2018 2:32 pm
Have not had access to a compression tool yet, definitely my plan for this weekend. After running sea foam and an atf flush it’s cleared up a lot of the smoke. Valve cover does leak but not bad enough to raise suspicion. But I am one bulb away from my cluster bulbs working again though
Keep in mind you can rent compression testing equipment from most auto parts stores (O'Reilly, Advance Auto, Napa, etc) as well as axle nut sockets, large torque wrenches, fuel pressure gauge, etc. Saves a lot of money being able to use it once and take it back. Usually free (you "buy" it and return it for a full refund as their deposit).
-Ryan Dunham
1989 Merkur XR4Ti - nickname: "SheaXR4"
Daily: 2016 VW Golf R "Matti"
E-Street Autocross car: 2001 Mazda Miata
Old daily: 2003 VW Golf MkIV TDI, 200k+ mi
"Racing is Life. Anything else is just waiting." -Steve McQueen
Is it the merkurtech site that has the what to do to buy a used Merk page? It has great advice about what to do to an old car to update it for fluids and checks on what to look for as problems, I seem to recall. Anyone?
As a side note on my own '86 car, I am now ready to do the underside suspension parts and only need to get the poly differential mount to take the car apart and have new struts, shocks and the rear end stabilized.
Cheers
So where does everyone get their struts from and is Koni yellow the way to go?
Depends on what kind of performance you need. Koni and Bilstein are getting tougher to source. They are good for coilover conversions but these brands are not needed if just going with some lowering springs as the spring rates are too soft and you could get away with a cheaper shock like a KYB GR2.
Replace the PCV as fast as you can. Without proper crank case ventilation you will push oil out of everywhere. For a car thats been sitting for 16 years you are having great luck. Valve stem seals will most likely be shot. The oil feed line is very thin and can clog easily. The oil return line, if clogged, will cause very excessive smoking and oil consumption. Bad rings Ive only seen on engines that have been sitting in the elements for years with: no spark plugs, no valve covers, no intake manifold, etc. This will form rust rings in the cylinder and wipe out a set of rings on start up in worst case scenarios.
There might be varnish in the gas tank so if you get a missfire here and there or it runs rough, it might be a sticking valve situation. Mine would drop cylinders while running. All because sticky varnish in the tank made it to the top of the valves and valve stems. Head disassembly on car working the valves loose in the guide with penetrating oil and sea foam was my solution.
Best of luck and welcome!
Now that’s the response I was looking for! Appreciate the info, got in a lot of parts today and more to come, Hoping to have it presentable by spring. I definitely want to run coilovers so I’ll do some digging on the konis or bilstiens whatever comes cheapest and first
Stussy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 06, 2018 4:46 pm
Now that’s the response I was looking for! Appreciate the info, got in a lot of parts today and more to come, Hoping to have it presentable by spring. I definitely want to run coilovers so I’ll do some digging on the konis or bilstiens whatever comes cheapest and first
I have the bilstein shocks in my car. They are a bit stiffer than stock but handles and rides great.
