Resoldering control modules to eliminate warning lights

[Ray]

Okay so i know a lot of us have that always on, sometimes flashing, etc lights in the center stack. Also my lamp failure indicators never seemed to work right after mid last year. so i took out the modules, located above the ECU behind the glove box. This requires removing (sliding) two long C shaped clips off the body to free the panel, then you take the wiring out. I took some pics, as well.

Here we have the offending module boxes.


here we see how they are crimped. to gain access to the boards i just used a screwdriver and bent the metal back a bit.


here is the light control module, i started to already resolder this one. it wasn't in bad shape, but i redid all the points anyway.


another closer view


this one (the other module) was a bit nastier. not only did we have corrosion, two of the lines were broken (fixed in later images)


zoomed out view a little.


another view. at this point i think i had already started to resolder.




resoldering complete. i used some teflon coated 20ga wire to reconnect the pins that had broken leads on the board.


all done. i also sprayed the boards with electronic grade clear coat to protect them for at least another 22 years.



to recrimp the case around the board i just used some vice grips and lightly pressed them back. then i filled the pins for the wiring connector with dielectric grease and resinstalled in the vehicle.

After resintallation, everything works wonderfully.

[John Brennan]

Bravo, sir-- well done! Outstanding post; belongs in the FAQ. Thank you.

[Rocky Leitch]

Hey there, good job.
I'm new at the technical wonders
of my toy. So the questions may seem
out there. What did you use to clean up
the corrosion? Or did your solder take care of
as well?


Rocky

[Ray]

you cannot use anything abrasive as that will damage the connections on the board, they damage very easily. the resoldering takes out most of the corrosion. the stuff you see left aren't actually connections but just posts for a heat sink. use flux or flux cored solder and you'll be fine.

[BuzzBomb2.3]

This was the #1 reason I removed the center console and replaced it with four autometer gauges. Of the several cars i'd seen, I've never seen one work.

You sir have skill. Nice job.

-Liam

[my8950]

Anyone still here?
If so, are these photos still available somewhere?
I tried doing this last fall, however nothing changed on the module, actually did both but neither made any difference.
I'm wondering what was here that isn't now and if it is something I missed.

[hEaT]

Anyone still here?
If so, are these photos still available somewhere?
I tried doing this last fall, however nothing changed on the module, actually did both but neither made any difference.
I'm wondering what was here that isn't now and if it is something I missed.

From what I remember, it was just pictures of reflowing each solder joint. Heat it up with an iron and add more solder if needed.

[my8950]

Anyone still here?
If so, are these photos still available somewhere?
I tried doing this last fall, however nothing changed on the module, actually did both but neither made any difference.
I'm wondering what was here that isn't now and if it is something I missed.

From what I remember, it was just pictures of reflowing each solder joint. Heat it up with an iron and add more solder if needed.

I agree, I recall the same as well. I actually did this with the module I have and a spare already when I posted before. No change in performance of the module, hence the reason I was asking if there was any other information. It's not a big deal to me if it works or not since it hasn't really worked since I've had this specific car, however, it would be cool if it did actually work as it should.

[hEaT]

Anyone still here?
If so, are these photos still available somewhere?
I tried doing this last fall, however nothing changed on the module, actually did both but neither made any difference.
I'm wondering what was here that isn't now and if it is something I missed.

From what I remember, it was just pictures of reflowing each solder joint. Heat it up with an iron and add more solder if needed.

I agree, I recall the same as well. I actually did this with the module I have and a spare already when I posted before. No change in performance of the module, hence the reason I was asking if there was any other information. It's not a big deal to me if it works or not since it hasn't really worked since I've had this specific car, however, it would be cool if it did actually work as it should.

I feel you. I've tried the similar fixes on my tach and moving the pot, and it still barely works.

[my8950]

I feel you. I've tried the similar fixes on my tach and moving the pot, and it still barely works.

yep, same with that post as well...I've taken apart and soldered the connections on each for the tach, still works, but also still reads 30-50% low. Basically no change except me doing a lot of detailed work to try and fix it.

[brokencase]

On the Scorpio's tach (and I assume the same for XR4ti) there is a open frame potentiometer that calibrates the tach.

Because it is subjected to humidity the resistance changes and the tach reading goes off.

Note the position of the potentiometer, and then give it a slight wiggle back and forth and it will usually restore proper operation.

Best solution is to remove the open frame potentiometer and replace it with a sealed unit. I don't know what the resistance is.