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DPDISXR4Ti
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti »

Colin wrote:Nooooo - I still need to get the head surfaced, get a valve job (why does that sound dirty? :?), get that intake finished up, install the Snaab rad and universal expansion tank I just bought, wire up the Megaspurt, build a fuel rail, buy some injectors, mount the VR pickup for EDIS, get the inside of my crank pulley machined a little larger, figure out my accessory brackets (maybe just throw a serp belt pulley on this alt, shim some pullies, and call it a day...), etc, etc, etc... lots and lots of small stuff to finish up. :(
So you're saying it'll be two weeks rather then one? :twisted:

What's up with the need to machine the crank pulley ID? Aren't you using one that came off an EDIS motor in the first place?

An alternator sounds like the only accessory that's required to me. :wink:
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Post by Morgan »

Colin wrote:EDIS module location - is there any reason this shouldn't work? I wonder how much heat this thing throw off... :?
I have mine mounted in the fire wall against metal and I was told I shoudl attach a heat sink with some heatsink conducting compound they do get fairly hot.
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Post by Colin »

Alright, sounds like the EDIS module gets to find a home under the hood afterall. Damn, I was trying to keep things clean under there. :(
DPDISXR4Ti wrote:What's up with the need to machine the crank pulley ID? Aren't you using one that came off an EDIS motor in the first place?
Yeah, the ID of the pulley is just a c*%+-hair too small (can I say that here? :lol: ) and it won't quite fit over the snout of the crank, no matter how much hitting with a rubber mallet and wiggling... it just won't go. I think I'm going to have to remove the EDIS sensor ring again to get it machined, since I had no luck mounting it in the lathe before (thanks to the harmonic-balancing rubber...) :?

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DPDISXR4Ti
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti »

Are you talking BCH or RCH? Despite popular thought to the contrary, it's been shown via test data that a BCH is thinner.

On the EDIS mount, why couldn't you locate under the dash somewhere, since that seem to be your preference? Maybe even put a chunk of aluminum in the glovebox and still leave it there?

I question how important these heat sinks are, especially in this case when EDIS-4 modules are so easy to swap and so plentiful in the junkyards, awaiting liberation. :twisted: Do you realize how many TFI's have been installed using dielectric grease, which actually does more harm than good?
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John Brennan
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Post by John Brennan »

DPDISXR4Ti wrote: Do you realize how many TFI's have been installed using dielectric grease, which actually does more harm than good?
Huh? Can you elaborate, please? :shock:
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Post by MerkXRTurbo »

EDIT
Last edited by MerkXRTurbo on Mon Feb 27, 2006 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Mike McCreight
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Post by Mike McCreight »

What should be under there, and is usually found,(at least I hope) is heat sink compound, zinc powder in a silicone base. Radio shack has it..
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DPDISXR4Ti
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti »

John Brennan wrote:
DPDISXR4Ti wrote: Do you realize how many TFI's have been installed using dielectric grease, which actually does more harm than good?
Huh? Can you elaborate, please? :shock:
Dieletric grease is an INSULATOR. As such, it INHIBITS heat transfer. What you want to use in this application is heat transfer paste. I'll see if I can find some links...

http://www.centrix-intl.com/?DirectBuy= ... ce=froogle

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/cpu/char/coolCompound-c.html

http://www.rpelectronics.com/Default.as ... 85_240.asp
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Post by John Brennan »

Back to Ye Olde Shop Manual, Page 23-02-5:

"Installation

1.Coat the metal base plate of the TFI module uniformly with silicone compound, approximately 1/32-inch thick. Use silicone dielectric compound, WA-10 D7AZ- 19A331-A, or equivalent grease."

It then shows a line-drawing illustration of the part, and two hands-- the left hand holding the part, and the right hand with a dab of grease on the forefinger, about to apply it. To the right is a tube of Motorcraft grease, labelled "Silicone Dielectric Compound, WA-10 (etc.)"
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DPDISXR4Ti
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Post by DPDISXR4Ti »

Who are you going to believe, me, or your own two eyes!? :P

Seriously, I believe the manual is mis-guided in this suggestion. My understanding of (all?) dielectric grease is that it is an insulator, which is 100% at odds with the purpose of a heat sink.
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Post by John Brennan »

I dunno-- this is the same manual that told me I could remove my CSB with a two-jaw puller-- even though the puller in their illustration was more robust-looking than my own-- Rest In Pieces...

Who can 'ya trust these days? Sheesh! :?
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Post by Colin »

DPDISXR4Ti wrote:Are you talking BCH or RCH? Despite popular thought to the contrary, it's been shown via test data that a BCH is thinner.
All I had available for testing was a RCH, so I slipped it in there and checked my tolerances (like Plastigage) and found the difference to be slightly larger than a BCH. ;)

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Post by Frag »

Id use a silver based compound myself. Mainly because I already have a bunch from installing heatsinks on computer parts, but also because it should out perform dielectric grease and the common white goop.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/
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Post by mk96 »

kinda late to reply, but who said that the EDIS module needs a heat sink? On all my old escorts that had em it was under the hood held on to a bracket with 2 nuts...not a heat sink by anymeans....

but I wouldn't just leave it sit there.....I would mount it in a non moving location...still got that huge pile of parts from kennans car? steal the mounting bracket from it and tack it under the glove box somewhere....
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Post by Colin »

Actually, that's where I got all the EDIS stuff from... :lol:

I used a spot weld cutter to seperate the two parts of the Escort bracket so that I'd have a nice, flat EDIS bracket to work with. :)

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