"Ray's AKA demonfire's XR4Ti build up"

[Ray]

Yeah i was pretty surprised how well the car did in the rain compared to the v710s.

2.5" aluminum charge tubing, installed. Very tight fit and took a little longer than i had anticipated. Aluminum is a chore to weld, but i am learning. Steel is much easier. Preclean, preclean, sand, wire brush, acetone, wipe down the filler rods... But anyway. Done with that for now. Next up i'm going to build an aluminum coolant degas (burp) tank. Got a few filler necks from summit and am picking up some sheet aluminum this week to mess around.

[Ray]

Fun video my friend (and competitor) put together.

http://racing.dutchhopto.com/?p=874

direct link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xtkVVdc ... r_embedded

[Ray]

Since my turbo decided it was a good time to lose the oil seal to the turbine housing (resulting in hilarious smoke @ the last event), i figured it might be a good idea to rebuild it.

Got the kit from gpopshop - which i have to say, has been nothing but spectactular to deal with. The kit should be here today and shipped 18 minutes after i ordered it. They were outstanding with customer service so i'm going to highly recommend them. FYI, our kit is #2 with the 4 piece carbon seal

http://gpopshop.com/garrett-t3-t4-t3t4-kits-2



Not sure if there is a how to on how to rebuild a turbo here - i found one on youtube by a merkur guy.

Anyway, remove turbo from car. Index location of hot and cold side in relation to CHRA. Remove hot side -loosen all bolts, then heat housing with a torch and lightly tap with a rubber mallet until it frees up. rotate housing to get the rest of the bolts off. Remove compressor housing. (all 13mm bolts)

This exposes both wheels. Index location of wheels in relation to each other and retaining nut in relation to compressor wheel. Nut is a 12 pt 3/8" nut, standard thread (not reverse thread). remove compressor wheel, slide turbine wheel out from CHRA.

Remove backing plate from CHRA (10mm). That's as far as i am right now, waiting on the kit to be delievered this afternoon and will update then.


seperated from the CHRA


compressor wheel removed


showing the stock 270 degree bearing - i'm going to the 360 degree bearing.

[DSPXR4ti]

Fun video my friend (and competitor) put together.

http://racing.dutchhopto.com/?p=874

direct link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xtkVVdc ... r_embedded

Watching those vid's I see how lucky we are not having courses like that, MAN! that was a small lot, were you even in the boost?

Ben

[Ray]

Barely in boost in that course, maybe twice? Makes it hard to compete with the instant torque v8 guys.

[Ray]

Decided to make an aluminum coolant de-gas tank. This is my 3rd project (well, second, really) with TIG'ing aluminum, so hopefully i get better at it as i get more experience. Totally different than steel.

Line up straight edge, mark back to allow clearance for gap for the plasma, and go to town. Used brand new sanding wheel / scotchbrite wheel after this, then aluminum only stainless brush, then acetone.




Tack welded up




Mostly welded...



Now just waiting on feed / return fittings.



Still waiting on another mock up to make the bolt down tabs.




What do you think?

[DPDISXR4Ti]

What do you think?

Everything I've ever read is that welding AL is way more difficult than steel - I've not even tried yet myself, so I can only go by what I read. Looks like you're figuring it out pretty quickly.

I've actually got two projects coming up that will require AL welding - custom forward-facing intake and re-fabricated pwr steering bracket for mounting Saginaw TC pump. Welding party at Ray's house?

BTW, how are you cutting the AL sheet?

[Ray]

Yeah sure why not? I need to fill my argon soon, i'm down to 500psi, which is enough for maybe one more tank.

I'm using a plasma torch / straight edge (wood, heh). Die grinders can introduce contamination.

I just pressure checked the oil catch can i built last night too; had two tiny pinholes that are now filled.

[Ray]

Installed both tanks. I need to pick up another fitting for the feed line for the coolant tank - i based my decision off the stock line, and since my cooling system is modified / simplified a bit, i forgot that i'm using the line right from the T-stat to the tank. Oh well.

Would there be any interest if people wanted these? I have the ability to make 4 or 5 more, just need to order more filler necks. The necks i chose are 6061 AL and fit the stock cap.

Actually i should ask for a go-ahead from Brad first, then offer that.

[BeefFajitas]

Pics of it installed? I could be interested.

[Ray]

Sure i'll try to get some tonight. Since this was the first i've built, i have improved my welding technique a bit. Just sucks that the fittings / etc are so spendy.

[hEaT]

Seeing this in person, it looks great Nate.

I'd get one for my car if I didn't have more important things on the list (suspension and a diff) and my coolant jug is the later style with a screw top that isn't yellowed at all.

[Ray]

Quick cell phone pic of the tank installed. It would be no big deal to add more fittings for the factory config 3 line setup, but obviously since fittings are about $10 each the price would reflect that. (extra welding, etc.)

Uses the factory mounting points.



I'll try to get some better pictures once we get hEaT's car running again :p

[Ray]

Nothing major for updates. Worked on the startup tune a little, rebuilt the turbo, redid the drain for the turbo to AN-12 with stainless braided line, removed some weight here and there, and changed wheel color.

Clean, wetsand, clean, tape, clean, first coat is a metallic flake red.


Let that cure up for a little bit, then 3 coats of tint, and 3 coats of clear:


Looks better in person.

[Firefox]

Looks better in person? I'm drooling over them from over here! Nice colour choice, Ray. I wonder how it would look on stock spatulas bolted to a monoblack 87...